hlf (not verified)

Good heavens, what a list!  You are my hero!  :-)

I just started weaving in May, and have been having a great time making random rectangular objects.  After I've finished the rose path pattern on the Baby Wolf now, I'm going to start in to an Actual Project - a shawl with some lovely merino/yak yarn for the weft, and a straight wool for the warp.  It'll be lovely, I hope!

hlf (not verified)

Since I"m still fairly new at this, I've been trying both - I'm not tied to any one way yet.  That said, I'm finding beating with an open shed works better for me - while I wouldn't call the selveges even, per se, they're better than otherwise!

hlf (not verified)

Since I"m still fairly new at this, I've been trying both - I'm not tied to any one way yet.  That said, I'm finding beating with an open shed works better for me - while I wouldn't call the selveges even, per se, they're better than otherwise!

dogmommy4 (not verified)

But there is a difference between the counterBALANCE (which I have) and the counterMARCH looms.  Or, at least that's what I was lead to believe. 

Melissa McCollum (not verified)

Hi,

I'm Gwendolen Wold, over in the Barony of SunDragon in Atenveldt. I've been spinning and weaving for several years now--long enough to realize just how much I really have to learn! Right now I've got some hand spun singles going onto the floor loom, a hand dyed inkle band half done on the inkle loom, a big batch of brown wool half spun up on the walking wheel, and plans for a many more projects than I have time for.

Slightly Warped,

Gwen

Robyn (not verified)

You are entirely correct!  There are some significant differences between counterbalance and countermarche looms.

My first loom, which I still weave on today, is a four-shaft counterbalance loom made by the Payton Loom Company.  It's the only loom I owned for the first 30 years I wove . . . I absolutely love it!  It originaly belonged to my great-grandmother.  I haven't come across a loom that is easier to set-up or less of an effort to weave on . . . plus, it's very quiet.

Yes, counterbalance looms prefer two shafts and two shafts down for each weft pick . . . many counterbalance looms can weave with "unbalanced" weaves . . . one shaft up and three shafts down . . . or three shafts up and one shaft down.  I haven't found a four-shaft pattern that I can't do on this loom.

Robyn (not verified)

Part II or reply

One thing that may help to weave unbalanced weaves on my counterbalance loom is that the treadles tie directly to the shaft frame as oppsed to a lamm.  The loom also has one of the largest sheds I've ever seen on a loom of this size.  Yes, the shed does get a bit smaller on unbalanced weaves . . . however, it's still generous in size.

IMHO, I think one of the key things that a counterbalance loom requires is proper hanging of the shafts and that the pulleys (or whatever helps the shafts roll up and down).  Many counterbalance looms have found their way into homes beyond the original owner and cords have been replaced.  If the shafts are not set-up correctly, it can have a dramatic effect on the counterbalance mechanics of the loom and the size of the shed.

Robyn (not verified)

My response is in more than one part.  Please excuse my 'blabber fingers'!