Welcome to March! It looks like March is roaring in like alion in most parts of the US, hopefully that will mean he we go out as a lamb bringing April showers and May flowers in his wake. Everyone is being so productive. I have been enjoying seeing everyone's projects and seeing how much we can help each other with questions and problems, as well as boistering each other wiht  all the compliments. I have not been weaving much lately, but that will change next week with a 5 day workshop. Keep up the good work everyone - weave on!

Tina

Comments

Sat, 03/01/2014 - 05:43

Erica J

March is starting out with an early rise, TJ awake at 5 this morning. Unfortunately we will have to wait until the shops open before coffee can be consumed as we're out of coffee! :(

Once coffee is consumed and TJ is down for a nap, I'll be back to the drawloom to test a new design of my own!

Sat, 03/01/2014 - 15:35

loomyladi (not verified)

In like a lion out like a lamb.  March is full of lots of unknowns, I never know if there will be rain, sun, snow, or ice on my birthday.  Yes, I still get to celebrate but after the half century mark next year I think I will suspend this pagan ritual (lol).  Four towels off the loom yesterday, they are washed and ready to hem.  Finished my first rug on my Glimakra and have preped some rags to do the next.  The warp is wide and very colorful and I think after I weave this next rug, I am going to split the warp and do placemats.  Working on the business side of my weaving life, prepping for class next week, and a formal interview and one on one as part 2 of a Jury process.  The most important lesson that I have learned from this process is DO NOT gift/sell all of your best work.  When you need to showcase your work you need to have recent, quality pieces.  So that said, back to the loom I go.

Sat, 03/01/2014 - 15:51

Erica J

Sample I lost count finished! Will cut off the loom tomorrow and take photos. Then I'll start on my tear drop and interlacing circles pattern.

Sat, 03/01/2014 - 16:07

theresasc

from Yarn Barn and have talked myself out of getting more yarn.  I am really trying hard to only use stash yarn this year.  Going into the 3rd month of standing strong:-)

Sat, 03/01/2014 - 17:24

ReedGuy

Winding linen for 'black and white' chair webbing, 32 yards on the sectional.  I have to cut some card stock I suspect, to place every once in awhile in the sections so the yarn doesn't cut into layers below. Only have 5 sections. ;)

Sat, 03/01/2014 - 21:25

Queezle

I spent three hours combing all the thrift stores for suitable material to place between the threads of my warp.  I guess I've never tried putting on such a long one, my cardboard is all used up!  I was looking for bamboo blinds, and none of the thrift or houseware stores had any.  How frustrating!  I suppose I could use paper from paper bags, but that always seems too flimsy to me.  Any suggestions?

Sat, 03/01/2014 - 21:56

ReedGuy

She's all wound up and ready to thread. Won't take long for 2.25" @ 32 epi. Worked out well to, very little waste. :)

Try newspaper Queezle, I know it has been mentioned on the forum by Sara. I've never used it because I have warp sticks for the bare beam and today the card stock worked fine for the sectionals.

Sat, 03/01/2014 - 22:55

Artistry

Queezle, I use heavy craft paper, that I got in a huge roll from the art store. Paper bags do work, just fold over the top and bottom , crease and fold in the sides and crease. Leave them all folded in. Roll the paper bag a few times in your hands to get the paper used to going in the right direction.( folds on the inside). When you are beaming and you start to get to the end of the paper bag slip the new paper bag underneath a few inches and start beaming again. It's very important that the paper roll on the back beam in a straight fashion, not at an angle. If you keep giving it a tug in the center each rotation , it should be fine. The only thing you have to watch for with Newspaper is the ink coming off. Testing to see if the ink comes off in the wash would be a good idea. Some people use wall paper. I can't recommend it, never used it. Cathie
Sat, 03/01/2014 - 22:57

Artistry

I forgot to say, cut the paper bag open, so it is long:)
Sat, 03/01/2014 - 23:01

ReedGuy

Sara always maintains that the newsprint ink never comes off onto the yarn. I wouldn't know, as I said I've never used anything but sticks. Doing a forum search with 'newspaper' might pull up some old threads.

Sat, 03/01/2014 - 23:15

Queezle

I will probably have enough bags - whew - but I'm curious about your sticks. 

Sat, 03/01/2014 - 23:21

Artistry

If Sara has used it, which i'm sure she has, then I'd go with what she says. However, if I'm weaving a white silk scarf, I'd do a test anyways on my sample:) Ha! ha!, alright, I do have a little anxiety issue.......
Sun, 03/02/2014 - 00:43

pammersw

When I've used paper, the warp has a tendency to fall off the stack at the edges. I'd be likely to find another cardboard box to cut up if I ran out of cardboard strips!

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 01:34

MMs-and-OOs-Ha…

If you must use warp packing, plain brown Kraft paper comes in big rolls. You just fold under the sides a few inches so your selvedge threads are supported. You don't use a continual sheet of it, the why to use and how is on Peggy Ostercamp's site, http://peggyosterkamp.com/peggys-weaving-tips-paper-winding-warps/ Having substantial packing, in my opinion, isn't necessary. I had a small loom that I had actually tip over backwards when I used sticks. Right now, because I can, on my AVL, with my plain beams, I use beam flanges. No packing at all!
Sun, 03/02/2014 - 01:48

sally orgren

I use wood slats initially, then brown craft paper. I also use corregated paper from bulletin boards. If it is a long warp, (not sectional), I'll use a layer of sticks halfway thru the beaming. What ever you use should be wider that the warp, so it can't "fall off the ends." If the packing material isn't substantial, it will crumple, buckle, and/or collapse. For wood slats, I prefer the stuff they sell for screen doors. Curved on two sides, very smooth and cheap, will cut to spec at the store. Can be used as lease sticks in a pinch.
Sun, 03/02/2014 - 02:22

Artistry

Yes, I agree. If you use paper bags don't cut it close on the sides with the warp measurement. The heavy kraft paper is my preference though ,unless I have the flanges like on my AVL. Sally, I think I will try your stick and paper combo for my next long warp on the Baby Wolf . It's nice to know where to get the sticks. I will say Queezle, I have never put a long warp on a loom with paper bags, so I don't know in that regards how it works out. I think maybe 5 yds. Is the max I've tried over the years.
Sun, 03/02/2014 - 03:31

sally orgren

For 6 yards or more, I like a middle layer of sticks to provide solid support. For our demo looms of more than 10 yards of warp (with sectional beams) I like an occassional layer of sticks, because in some cases, the warps don't fill the sections compactly. (On the rug loom we have a pretty open sett, and a crude sectional beam.)

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 03:33

ReedGuy

Queezle my warp sticks are hand made quarter sawn maple with the sharp edges rounded over. I can use a couple as lease sticks as well. Even my shafts originated from warp sticks, just narrower.

Wow, that light loom that flipped with the warp sticks in must have gotten exciting. Both physically and verbally. I'd be cursing the devil. :D ;)

Some people find wooden slats from blinds work to, they are rounded over.

This topic comes up many times, and I suspect many more to come. ;)

I'd be afraid of cardboard collapsing myself because it's corrigated. Depends on the warp I guess. Strong linen may be tensioned more than wool, where wool is more elastic. I have read of a few failures with certain paper stuffings but I forget all the details. I'm sure a search will bring up an old discussion.

I've never had warp sticks fail, but on narrow warps I secure them with cord once the warp is wound good, so they won't slip when threading heddles, since the warp is no longer being held by the ends. I have a youtube video on warping and use these sticks. I have a deep countermarch floor loom with a high castle which is all maple. Too substantial to ever flip over. In fact it don't even 'walk' like many other lighter looms. :)

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 03:44

ReedGuy

Sally on my sectional I open the set and not bunch the ends to one side. And of coarse use the card stock every 5 meters. Today, I only used 5 sections for my linen chair webbing, 4 were 16 epi and the 5th was 8 epi. My sections are a full 1", and the wire loops 1-1/8" on centre which is none traditional, since most are 1" on centre. Thus is why some people need metal fenders on the tops of the loops to pull in the ends when your using a comb with dent spacing like a reed. For instance, 16 dents is a full inch, not 7/8". ;)

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 03:48

ReedGuy

I'm curious what a beam flange is. Since I would worry about warp cutting down through layers on a long warp. Are they something that go across the warp in layers.

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 04:03

Artistry

No the flange is a large circular disc that you align exactly with the last peg in the raddle on each side of your warp. The flange should line up in the middle of the peg. On the AVL the raddle extends about 4 inches off the back of the loom. The flanges keeps the warp from "falling off the edges" then you beam without any packing. You get a rock solid beam. No warps cutting through the layers unless you warp without enough tension. I'm going to get you a pic now.
Sun, 03/02/2014 - 04:24

Artistry

Here you go,

flanges on AVL

flanges AVL

and what is on this baby? a sample....

sample

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 04:26

Artistry

I am at the end of the warp so things are not lined up, but idealy the warps would be touching the flanges.

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 04:26

MMs-and-OOs-Ha…

Warp beam flanges could probably made to work on any plain beam providing there is clearance for the size of the disks. Many years ago I got them for my 36" AVL dobby "Witch". On the AVL the warp beams are slotted so that a stick can be inserted into the raddle cross and slipped into the beam. The warp beam flanges are in halves. They are bolted together around the beam securing the raddle cross stick. I have them for my 40" AVL for both plain beams. I then wind the beam through the raddle. The disks support the selvedges and I put the warp on very tightly. When I got my 60" AVL I ordered the flanges for it. The beam diameters are not the same for both looms and so each requires different diameter flanges. I noticed that the 60" flanges have a notch to accommodate a warp beam that isn't slotted. So I guess AVL makes looms with unslotted warp beams. Here is a picture from AVL, https://www.avlusa.com/catalog/warping-accessories/warp-beam-flanges-set/
Sun, 03/02/2014 - 05:26

ReedGuy

An interesting concept.

Nice weaving Cathie, nice color and the pattern stands out well. :)

My beams are octagon making stick placement easy.

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 12:34

Artistry

Thanks ReedGuy! The pattern is from handweaving.net hin und weiber, I believe is how you spell it. My Leclerc has an octagonal back beam, it came with sticks. I got it used from my Great Aunt. The sticks got lost somewhere in one of our many moves as a kid. But, you bet I'll be warping that 4 S Honey with sticks this summer. Octagonal beam + sticks seems like a natural :) With the flanges that warp would be spread evenly across back beam and right up snug to the flange before beaming, which it was. I find when I'm right at the end the warp does pull in somewhat. Great conversation you guys!
Sun, 03/02/2014 - 15:02

ReedGuy

Cathy,

I was thinking some on this concept. I'm thinking it would work nice on my supplemental beam. I can make those flanges for about $10 bucks. I will laminate some lumber to make the beam around 4-1/2" diameter. Then turn two beam halves and join with a 1" dowel. I won't use a groove because I have a ratchet/pawl used to wind the warp securely on one end ,and a brake drum on the other used during weaving so the beam rolls the heavier pile or padding yarns without fiddling with it with enough friction that the warp doesn't get too slack in the shed.

This is going to be a breeze to make. :)

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 14:36

Artistry

Yes, there is a groove in the beam. Then a beam stick with holes on each end, that fits into the groove. You put the warp loops over the stick and fastened a long sturdy twine across the warp through the holes and tie together. You have two crosses . A threading cross and a raddle cross. Once I have the raddle threaded I just stick the lease sticks in the lease cross, so it doesn't get all tangled and let the raddle do the workforce keeping everything orderly. The pegs are set 1/4 inch apart, I think. The flanges are lined with a piece of felt so it's easy on your back beam.
Sun, 03/02/2014 - 14:43

Artistry

Yes, the flanges secure the warping stick. But that warping stick with the twine is a nice snug fit:) it's also square. That duct tape you see on mine is because I can't screw my flanges tight enough so there is a small gap. A good place for a warp to snag. So the duct tape makes a nice smooth surface. Gotta love duck tape:)
Sun, 03/02/2014 - 15:10

ReedGuy

I guess I can still do the groove, and just place the half flanged on over the beam and stick after. I was thinking with the wheels on the ends of the beam that they would make trouble, but not so. I think it's way easier to have those flanges off before the warp is slipped on the stick and inserted into the groove. Then clamp the flanges on. Easy peasy.

I think I'll line the flanges with cloth gaffer's tape. :)

Thanks Cathie. :)

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 15:13

Artistry

No problem :) there is also an AVL group , they probably have a gazillion ways of doing things, you know how us weavers are:)
Sun, 03/02/2014 - 15:20

ReedGuy

What about loom waste, do you remove the flanges and somehow secure that stick to weave up to the heddles? I would have two yards of waste if not.

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 17:41

Queezle

Thanks so much, everybody. What a learning experience. 

My warp (14/2 cotton) is 9 yards, I used corregated cardboard for about 5 yards, some slats from some blinds for 2 yards, and heavy brown paper bags for the end. Keeping my fingers crossed!

I like the idea of the sticks,  and will talk to my friend with a table saw to see if I can work something out.  We just removed paneling made from 1 1/2 inch thick teak which might be perfect!

And Cathie - that is a beautiful sample! 

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 18:14

pammersw

Anyone happen to know where there are good plans for a small floor loom - 36" jack type - preferably with front and back beams that fold for storage? I'd like to start with 4 shafts and expand to 8 in a year or two.

Thanks!

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 19:13

Artistry

Thanks Queezle! ReedGuy, the loom waste is remarkable, however you can use an apron. Mine are made out of heavy duck or canvas. How it works , at the end of the weaving take two rods put them through each end of the apron. Take a little tension off the loom, take the warp stick out of the groove, ( your warp is still on it) let it hang over the back beam. Take the apron rod put in groove and wrap the apron around the beam in the same direction as it turns to release. Then lash the other rod to the warp stick and you're good to go.if you make the apron long enough, you can weave right up to the back of your heddles. Hopes that makes sense. I have a picture in a book if you want.
Sun, 03/02/2014 - 20:26

ReedGuy

A yes, I have two steel rod that would work with canvas. I'll be in Bangor, Maine in a few weeks so I'll grab  2-1/2 yards at the Curtain Store. They have rolls of all kinds of stuff. Hopefully I can get 60" wide. :) Hmm, there is also a tarp shop in town that might have some. It might be polyester tarp, but they can sew whatever you want (edges) and ends for the rods. :)

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 22:42

Artistry

Sounds like a plan:) not everyone works with aprons so I'll just mention that one end for the rod that you lash across has tabs and spaces. You probably knew that :)
Mon, 03/03/2014 - 00:07

ReedGuy

Well, it's all your fault I know that. :D

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 05:13

tien (not verified)

Wow, are there really 39 posts in this thread already, and it's only the second day of March? I like where we're going with this!

I have done no weaving recently since my AVL needed a replacement part that should arrive tomorrow. However, I did get an absolutely gorgeous Bluster Bay Honex-tensioned end feed shuttle in fiddleback pink eucalyptus! It was one of the exotic woods I sent Bluster Bay a few weeks ago - three of the four woods didn't work out, but the pink eucalyptus is beautiful. Here's a pic:

photo of pink eucalyptus shuttle

It really doesn't capture the beauty of the shuttle, though - the markings in the wood appear and disappear as the light changes. It's just beautiful.

I love the woods that Bluster Bay uses. I have four of their end-feed shuttles - from top to bottom, these are pink eucalyptus, wenge, bubinga, and marblewood. They are so beautiful I'd keep them just as display pieces, even if I weren't weaving!

four Bluster Bay shuttles

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 09:49

ReedGuy

Beautiful wood Tien. I know what you mean about photos. It is very difficult to capture the figuring and grain especially if there is glare and also if macro setting is not used. I am often photographing end grain of woods as this is how wood is identified in lumber form. It's like finger prints. But of course only works for me on native woods. There all kinds of woods with very little wood ID literature. With the native woods the USDA and wood products labs in Canada have everything covered in the literature. A  number of times we have shown that someones American chestnut was actually black ash. ;) When looking at end grain, it's been described as looking at the stars through a telescope and trying to identify other planets. Pores, rays, parenchyma, latewood tyloses.....well you get it. ;)

Enjoy your wood, it's beautiful and bountiful. :)

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 09:54

Artistry

Tien, Beautiful shuttles! Can you compare the AVL and Bluster Bay EF shuttles? Is it the beauty of the Bluster Bay that makes it different or does it function differently too? ReedGuy, Just about choked on my coffee, very good :) I get a second cup of coffee then it's serious between me and Georgia's chair today. I'm working on someone else's loom and need to have this finished and off loom by April 2. I'm up to another set of "cut outs "of the chair, right where eyes would be, talk about eerie:) similar to Theresasc I'm trying to work with my stash and I'm running out of a particular color which someone gifted to me. So I'm trying to replace it in my weft bundle. I ended up blending with two bobbins, one with the old combo, one with the new. I did this in rows, 2 old 2 new x2, 2 old 4new x2, 1 old 4 new x2. This worked really well, because the browns were close enough in value, eventhough the old was red based and the new is gold based.
Mon, 03/03/2014 - 10:41

ReedGuy

Well, I better get busy to, as there is 32 yards of webbing to turn out. It's nice and dense to and very surprised that the patterning is square with this sett. Thought it would elongate since the yarn cone says 30 wraps per inch, probably because it packs better than cotton I suspect.

Furniture webbing by the yard anyone? :)

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 11:31

sally orgren

I disappeared into the Weaveatorium for the weekend and then this morning I see we are at 43 messages? Wow.

I finished winding, beaming, threading and sleying my nearly 800 thread warp, and started immediately on another nearly 500 thread warp, also at 6+ yards. It took me a couple hours to figure out how to wind this one due to the color order (it is somewhat independent of the threading blocks). That, or the glass of wine from Saturday night was dulling my warp calculation abilities. I normally figure things out on the computer, but I even had to get out the colored pencils!

The warp beam flanges are a great idea! A MacGyver variation on my loom is to use cable ties on the back beam to "direct" or contain the warp in a consistent path. I have also used cable ties as an impromptu raddle or sectional divider on the back beam (not warp beam) when beaming back-to-front. 

A lot more weaving (and a lot less warping) should be in my near future.

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 12:45

MMs-and-OOs-Ha…

Just to add some comments about the loom waste and flanges. Yes there is that. On my AVLs it would not be quite as much as 2 yards but almost. I lash the beam stick with the raddle cross to the apron rod and keep going up to the heddle eye. When you originally spread the warp on the beam stick it helps if it is spread evently. It fits in the beam bettter and makes it easier to lace on to the apron rod when you change to the apron. One advantage, and I am finding more, is that the rotary temples will hold the cloth for you while you do all this fiddling to loosen the tension somewhat on the end of your warp, take off the flanges, and put on the apron. My fell line stays put and does not move.
Mon, 03/03/2014 - 13:51

sally orgren

You don't want hems on the sides of the apron, only the lashing ends, because you don't want unnecessary build up at the edges.

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 14:34

Artistry

MM's-and -OO's- Han, I have a Questions. We basically do the apron the same way ( I think) except my raddle cross is long gone. Am I missing something by getting rid of my raddle cross? Also when I beam my warp is perfectly spread across the beam but when I come to the end it usually looks like what's in the picture, it's shifted inwards a couple of inches.do you know why that is? I don't have excessive draw-in. I know Jim Ahrens recommended making the warp wider in the raddle than your planned project because he says the path of the outside warp threads being at an angle is better. I rarely do this.
Mon, 03/03/2014 - 15:57

ReedGuy

In our discussion of the AVL beam, and the apron we are talking about there, you have to do something with the raw edge of the apron or it's going to frey. I would not roll it ,but fold the edge under and just hem flat with a dense stitch or maybe overlock the edge. Your only using it as the gap between the stick in the beam groove and the heddles, no warp on it. It is wound on the bare beam and the warp stick is suspended off it to a tie rod in the apron.

I beleive a regualar temple will alleviate any potential problems when the warp stick is out of the beam and no tension. If I have to, I can just use one of them quick grip clamps for a quick hold-fast. It's not like there is going to be 5 lbs of weight pulling on it toward the breast beam.

Mon, 03/03/2014 - 16:18

MMs-and-OOs-Ha…

The automatic cloth roll up system on the AVL works a bit differently from the tensioning system on a ratch it up cloth beam. Even though the sandpaper beam is supposed to hold your woven warp in place it doesn't always. You first remove the counterweight which does the automatic rolling up. You also need to take the tension off the warp beam to lash on the apron etc. So all of these adjustments can cause a shift in the fell line. Wasting 2 yards of warp well wasteful but if you are weaving 35 yards of something it might not be worth the time. I have the time so I will take the 15-30 minutes or so do be able to weave the last 2 yards. Beaming with heads in my opinion is so much nicer than using packing. I get a much better warp. That said the biggest warp tensioning improvement on the plain beam would be to have a much larger diameter beam. On my 40" AVL the plain beams are small in diameter. Funny things ccan happen after 10 yards of weaving, depending on the yarn. The larger diameter equalizes the tension which is why I often use the sectional beam.
Mon, 03/03/2014 - 16:33

ReedGuy

My new beam should be around 4-1/2" diameter used as supplemental. The warps I put on there will be wound good and firm, but they will be reeling off as I weave with pile, or advanced as usual for packing warps but slacker than the ground cloth. So I have a ratchet to beam with and a brake wheel with a spring and chain I can set and leave to add a little drag to the roller without fiddling around if doing pile. My main beam is a huge octagon.

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