Cnn you believe that another month has sped past? Here in Central Texas, March came in like a lion but is certainly leaving like a lamb. I am reminded of the lyrics to June is bustin out all over " March roared in like a lion, a whippin' up the water in the bay. Then April sighed and stepped aside and along came prety little May. . . ." The trees are in bloom, the wild flowers are starting to sprout up along all the highways, the brief Texas Spring will be over all too soon. I hope Spring finds all of you well and waverly (especially those of you who have been suffering from an extremely long winter this year.) I am looking forward to seeing more wonderful projects from all of you. Weave on!

Tina

Comments

Queezle

Thanks to all of Tien's suggestions, I was able to win a copy of the out-of-print "Synthetic dyes for natural fibers" from ebay.  I figure we have about 6 more weeks of intensive kitchen remodeling distractions before I can unfold my looms.  Meanwhile I am making plans and accumulating the glassware to do my own dyeing.  Its quite a liberating idea, though its quite possible I am under-estimating the work required for developing my recipes.  Nevertheless, its all about the journey, isn't it, and I think the scientist in me will embrace adding the dyeing to the process.

Artistry

Queezle, dyeing is so much fun, I can see that even in the planning stage you've been bitten by the bug!

Here is my new warping valet! The tension is off now because I had to leave it overnight, but I've been using three 1/3rd filled gallon sized water jugs per 3 bouts ( total 300threads). it's working really well, except I am having more that usual tangling at the cross when I move it upwards and don't know what that's about. I keep the tension on, it's far worse without of course. I don't know if it's the angle or what? But the valet is a dream! Ed attached it to the beams above the drop ceiling.

warping valet

Artistry

Just about the cross, I work it to the top of the valet and then beam the warp:) Oh Yes, and why don't I just use that sectional there? We are not friends,lol, that's why:)

MMs-and-OOs-Ha…

I am saving this photo. I don't think I can do this in my condo right now but since I use the plain beam a lot with the heads this looks like the way to go. I am thinking that maybe the issue with the twisting of the raddle bouts is the angle that the warp enters the raddle. Maybe, if you have it, you can set up the rail that the section box rides on. Then you could route the warp over that. When I had the AVL reel that made the cross for you at both ends I would take an end on end cross even for the raddle and just drop the groups, according to my set, in the raddle teeth. That made for warp perfection.

Artistry

Thanks for your comments. I have the two crosses, one threading and one at the other end for denting for the raddle. Usually when I beam I just take the raddle cross out when I'm done threading the raddle. But this being the first time I'd used the valet and because I saw a picture with the lease sticks in, I left my lease sticks in also. I move the lease sticks up to the top of the valet and beam. The warp chains are weighted. The trouble is in moving the lease sticks. Knots. You could be quite right that the angle is to sharp between the raddle and valet rod, so I have a little bit of space to move the loom back further. Will try that tomorrow. When everything is smooth the valet is awesome!

sally orgren

I know it sounds crazy, but if you saw diminutive Katie Meek go at her warps with a big stick between the loom and the bar at the top, you'd know exactly what I mean. She really gives it a good set of slaps while beaming to get those tangles out!

kerstinfroberg

There are different ideas about pre-sleying, raddles and lease sticks. In my opinion ( actually, in my *world*) after pre-sleying ( which means: one (maybe two, but NEVER less than one) loop per pre-sleying unit) is, well, pre-sleyed, the cross has to be transferred - if using a raddle I suppose just "brought" to the warp beam side of the spreading device. The idea is that the spreading device (in my world the reed) helps "order" the cross. In my world, the reed/raddle helps avoiding the "knots" at the lease sticks, as the spreading device helps separating the warp ends. (If this doesn't make sense, I can expand... ;-)

Sara von Tresckow

Kerstin, its not just your "world". I've done it both ways - the pre-sley device closest to the warp beam and the opposite.

Like you, when the pre-sley precedes the lease sticks, (and just for good measure there is a two thread cross, not thread by thread) the lease sticks glide through with minimal stickiness.

dtjacobson

I'm winding warps and dressing both looms in preparation to weave "shop inventory" for later in the year. For Mongo (my Macomber B4-E), an 18-yard warp that will end up as more baby wraps

For Fleur (my Gilmore Gem II), a 10-yard warp of 8/2 for a set of huck towels. It's an easy-peasy draft, so I can weave while "minding the store" during ArtWalk next Friday.

Artistry

Aha! I know better! I have the raddle ordering the threads for the cross as you've suggested. BUT while I wound the warp two at a time I put 7 threads per raddle slot to equal 28 epi. There lies my problem, Sara! I would have been so much better off if I had done 6,8,6,8! Sally , I've never seen Kati Meek in action but I have her book, which I'm pulling out tonight:) Thank you Kerstin, Sara, Sally, and MM's-andOO's-Han for your helpful suggestions

Artistry

Well, I misspoke , not for the helpful advice, of course! The threads ARE going two by two through the cross , very perculiar. There are no tangles between the raddle and reed. The tangles are in the cross up toward the valet. There is certainly some twisting of whole warp bouts. This is what I've been doing, snapping, getting in there and loosening entanglements, putting my finger in the open side of the cross( facing the valet) and running it up to the valet, untwisting the bout. Even then we can go about two inches and then start over again. This should really be going on easily, it's 10/2 cotton 36 inches wide. We have one bout that's smooth as silk, no problem. Mystery to me, never had one so problematic!

Sara von Tresckow

You DO realize that the raddle is always an inexact device. Its sole purpose is to beam the warp at approximately (and truly approximately) the reeded width.

It is is VERY little consequence whether the bundles in the sections are equal - if a bundle slips out and runs with its neighbor, it won't make any significant difference - the total width is correct and the threads even themselves out as they wind on.

Once you have that cylindrical beam - the raddle comes off and is not seen again until you warp the loom again.

Artistry

Yes Sara I do realize that. I hope I didn't offend you by typing my "ARE"! I didn't expect my cross to be in correct order, so that's where that came from. I'm sorry to have offended you.

Sara von Tresckow

No offense, but just wanted to point out that sometimes there is too much emphasis placed on small things that really don't foul up a good warp. When students come, they are amazed that the raddle step is relatively simple and doesn't really take a lot of thinking - as long as the outside edges are good, the rest takes care of itself.

Sara von Tresckow

No offense, but just wanted to point out that sometimes there is too much emphasis placed on small things that really don't foul up a good warp. When students come, they are amazed that the raddle step is relatively simple and doesn't really take a lot of thinking - as long as the outside edges are good, the rest takes care of itself.

ReedGuy

I use a raddle to, and mostly use 4 ends in the cross when using just the bare beam (no sectionals). My raddle has 1/4" dowels, and I work out how many groups of 4 go into the dents to get my width. That is never any trouble. It's just easy and little fiddling to grab the group ends instead of counting out ends to get any exact epi. Never done it, not going to start. ;) If there is good tension on the warps and if the lease sticks are not too close (Lundell says width of two fingers as a rule) things go smoothly. I think the best place for the raddle is up on the back beam, then have the lease sticks below (secured with cord to the beam). That way the back beam itself will not interfere with the ends going through the cross. If they (groups) happen to go over the beam crossed-over (twisted) they will tend to remain that way going into the cross and be knotted up. If within the group a thread crosses another, there is no consequence.  Keep the warp off that back beam until after the warp is all wound. A lot less fiddling around. ;)

Artistry

Fudge ReedGuy! I'm checking off the list and have done everything that I always do, which seems like everyone has suggested and is really just good basis weaving! I'm now looking at this under a microscope going OH! It must be this lol, it must be that :) The warp is yellow and the cross gets tangled , that at this hour it looks like a plate of scrambled eggs:) Alas, I'll make it through this one, thanks for your help. Thanks Sara.

Artistry

Alright, do I feel dense. Also I know I'm being tedious with this but wanted to give one last posting of my obvious mistake. Normally, you are quite right and this is also what I do, raddle, lease sticks, beams like a dream . First time using the valet. Visually this looks correct, to me.Raddle, lease sticks, but the lease sticks are actually preceding the raddle when they are pushed to the top of the valet, the warp is beaming from the back of the loom, hence no ordering system, knots and tangles. The raddle is left behind sitting by the beam. The very good news is what is being beamed is good tension and rock solid. So Kerstin is right, I should transfer the cross. Thanks for all your help and patience. I love the Valet and now I know how to use it! At least I hope I have it right this time:)

endorph

don't worry about the posts - we all learn from these issues and sometimes we just need to talk things over until they become clear. I would love to have a warping valet but. . . I am thiking about doing one out of two by fours - one that can be balanced in the loom itself since I can't attach anything to my ceilings -

kerstinfroberg

Mine took about 15 minutes to "build", including getting the drill out. (But then I already had the tube for the top - its "day job" is to reinforce the too weak knee beam)

ReedGuy

:D Kerstin, I just tossed one of them tubes into the brush fire yesterday. SS rod came in it. I used the rod in the sectional rakes. Oh well. ;)

Erica J

Well I go away and write 15 or so pages and you all save the world, or at least Cathy!

Cathy, I'm glad to see the valet can be used at the back of the loom! I had Oliver put mine in front, then realized it would be better if I turn the loom around!

Queezle, I have an induction range for mu some day dye kitchen. Reading your posts and Tien's gets me itching to install it and get dying!

My main Weaverliness has been the research paper. Would any of you be willing to be readers/commentors?

I'm finally winding the warp for the comission I wove all those samples for! I think I'm goung to chuck about 7" so far as two bouts were being put on kite sticks I found one thread had been miswound. Rather than warp it on and find the entire 20" warp ruined, I'm just going to wind those two bouts again. :)

endorph

I don't know that  I know anything about you subject but I am a pretty good proof reader / editor (inspite of my appalling writing on here!) and would love to read your paper.

 

I am trying to convince my LYS where I take all my classes to do a natural dye class. . . just what i need, another project!

ReedGuy

Well, today I finally got the rest of the loom moved. The last pieces were the side frames which had to go one the pick-up truck. Also, moved my drying rack. I have a bunch of furniture to move, mostly things I'm selling. A person just gets too much stuff around them. :D

justmekaybee

Finally got the christmas shawl finished.  I twisted fringe took it off the loom and wet finished it.  It is more like a blanket than a shawl but oh so cozy.  And to think this was just a "quick project" to keep the kids from removing my loom in order to decorate!   I finished cleaning my baby mac and am ready to wind a warp for a scarf.  This loom is smaller and so I'm thinking there will be less loom waste.   Then to sample my slippery yarns and see if they will make a good braided twill.  I fell in kove with the pattern so I hope they will.

Missus T.

Reading these posts I am not sure if the warping trapeezes are above the breast beam or the back beam.  I can see that this would help a lot with warps wider than the towels I've been weaving.  With a Toika Liisa warping B2F with 2 crosses, I usually hang the raddle off the back of the castle and end up needing a busy family member to help hold the unwound warp taut by sitting on the bench at the front of the loom.  It works fine for the narrow warps I've been doing, but I can't imagine putting on the blanket warp that is coming in the future.  Any thoughts?

Artistry

Thanks Tina. Finally in Michigan, it's great to take a break! I'm going to do some tablet weaving, book marks for my daughter whose doing a lot of research right now :) Missus T, I have my valet set up at the back of the loom which maybe wrong for an AVL. It will be interesting to hear what others say!

pammersw

Kerstin - now THAT'S the kind I could build! 

Group Audience