I am a newbie I have just finished a scarf with diffent patters of twill  and taby as a sample, but I am not satified with the outcome they look kind of stiff for a scarf. Can any one of you suggest a pattern that is loosly weave. Thank you Yuya.

Comments

Sue in VT

Hi Yuya,  Welcome to a wonderful adventure!  I'm wondering about your sett?  How many threads per inch were in your reed?  One of my first pieces used gorgeous alpaca wool, so soft, yet I produced a "scarf" as hard as a horse blanket.  It may become something else some day....zip purses, etc., but I had little experience figuring out how densely to sley my reed. Then I began following patterns to ensure success until I gained experience.  After almost 4 years, I'm still just a learner, but loving every step.  Check the library, and the internet for weaving patterns, or at least setts for different weave structures. I just finished a 10/2 project sett at 24  ends per inch, but it also depends upon the weave structure. Hang in there, and read, read, read!

yuya

Thank you Sue, my sett was 30 and 3 ends in the reed. The scarf was a learning sample, and it was a lesson that I enjoyed doing it.  I am thinking of twiil/tabby treading 1,2,3,4,3,2,1 and sett 15 on a reed 10 sley 1-2. would tha make it a softer? Your input would be very much apreciated. Another would be to do a lace pattern? any comments.

Yuya

Sue in VT

Hi Yuya,  At 30 epi, you set up a firm, tight weave in 10/2 perlecotton. I've just finished a couple of runners in 10/2 at 24 epi and they're quite firm which is good for my intended outcome- table runners. Maybe a simple huck lace threading?  Perle has luster and beautiful colors but I find unmercerized cotton softer. Enjoy your journey!

Sue in VT

Hi Yuya,  At 30 epi, you set up a firm, tight weave in 10/2 perlecotton. I've just finished a couple of runners in 10/2 at 24 epi and they're quite firm which is good for my intended outcome- table runners. Maybe a simple huck lace threading?  Perle has luster and beautiful colors but I find unmercerized cotton softer. Enjoy your journey!

sandra.eberhar…

I've had some success using EPI X .6 to get a good sett; I use a lot of odd yarns that you don't find in sett charts. I find your mention of twill/tabby treadling interesting. The sett for tabby is different for a given yarn, and the fabric tends to be wider than the same sett in twill. Combining the two may cause some odd effects. I weave hems for twill towels in basketweave to avoid having wider hems than the towels. As Sue has mentioned, although there are some weaves that always tend to be stiffer (weft faced), the handle of the fabric tends to depend on sett, not the weave structure. Twill is generally a fabric with more drape than plain weave, even though it is denser.

sandra.eberhar…

I've had some success using EPI X .6 to get a good sett; I use a lot of odd yarns that you don't find in sett charts. I find your mention of twill/tabby treadling interesting. The sett for tabby is different for a given yarn, and the fabric tends to be wider than the same sett in twill. Combining the two may cause some odd effects. I weave hems for twill towels in basketweave to avoid having wider hems than the towels.

ReedGuy

It will surprise you how soft and drapey a plain weave becomes when the sett is not as close as recommended. You can see this when weaving an overshot. My wearable items are less epi than a table runner or place mat. And in doing so I can treadle the blocks as threaded. But for the runner I would sett at 24 in 10/2 and decrease the number of picks in a block to square the pattern, but also have firmer cloth due to sett.
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