I have been asked by a friend who is presenting a guild program next week on S&W and taquete to critique her comments on Taquete. She has made 4 comments on Taquete (to follow) and I am hoping the group will help me out with their comments on hers.
1. Taquete is the international name for Summer and Winter woven on opposites without the tabby thread.
2. What would have been woven as tabby in Summer/Winter now becomes a pattern shot in Taquete.
3. Restated, what would have been the tie-down ends become the "binding" pattern ends (usually of similar ply or thickness as weft) in Taquete.
4. Taquete compresses and covers the little "dits" that are created by shafts "1" and "2" as the tie-downs in Summer/Winter.
Many thanks for your help
this is Lillian quoting "The Complete Book of Drafting..."
"TAQUETÉ is a weft-faced compound tabby
Taqueté is “a weft-faced pattern weave with two of more complementary wefts. Even (numbered) warp ends separate the wefts so that one color is on the surface of the cloth and the other(s) on the back. Odd (numbered) warp ends bind the wefts in alternate (tabby) order, thus the name weft-faced compound tabby"
Personally, I had a heck of a time following her instructions for drafting taquete and figuring out what she is trying to tell me there. I've been weaving this structure for a while now, and took Lillian's workshop last spring and I still find myself saying "huh?" when I read it.
but Lillian also state, as her own definition, the same wording as the first item in your definition, which is a lot simpler and clearer.
It's hard to explain taquete in words, at least to me. I like the way that Lillian teaches in that she takes you through the different ways of weaving the same pattern in all the variations of S&W then introduces taquete structure and you immediately see the difference.
The whole thing is in the drafting. If your draft is right, you're in great shape. Oh, duh, guess that's true for everything, but, getting the taqueté draft "opposite" ground shots right is crucial to the whole thing.
Taquete does not utilize "ground shots". Taquete is a weft faced structure that uses only "pattern" picks, woven on opposites. The tie down threads are used in 1-1-2-2- order, and NO ground cloth is woven at all. It is woven on a 1:1 ratio threading, that is tie down-pattern-tie down-pattern in threading units of four threads, most commonly threaded 1-P-2-P (with P=pattern). Taquete is typically woven on the same *threading* as Summer and Winter (which is more accurately called Single Two-Tie Unit weave). However, taquete is not considered a unit weave because the treadling is not done in unit fashion. The best explanation of Taquete I have ever read is in John Becker's "Pattern and Loom". In that book it is called weft-faced compound tabby or taquete. It differs from other tied weaves in that the purpose of the pattern warp is to form pattern. The purpose of the binding, or tie-down, warp is to provide the tabby weave structure. This differs from other tied weaves because other tied weaves consist of pattern threads tied to the surface of a ground cloth. Taquete does not weave ground cloth, rather the tabby structure is consistent throughout the patterned cloth.
Tied weaves are a fascinating study.....there is so much to learn! I find statements #2 and 3 in the original post very confusing. In statement #2, what would have been woven as tabby in S&W is eliminated from a Taquete weave entirely. Pattern picks are woven on opposites AND in two contrasting colors. Statement #3.....tie downs ends becoming "binding" ends......tie down ends are always binding ends....just two different names for the same thing. The tie down ends are used as binders in taquete because there is NO ground cloth to "tie" the pattern threads to.
very well-put, Su. The tied weaves just open a fascinating horizon for creativity and experimentation.
I think that, sometimes, we "overexplain" things. The simpler, the better.
Thanks for your helpful response Su.
Can anyone tell me if this is double faced taquete? It has more than 2 colors of weft but the patterns look the same on both faces except for color differences. Does anyone have any idea where this tribal textile was woven? Thanks in advance for any coments or help with this puzzle.
If you want an answer to this, you might want to try to proofread your post.
This is my first post and I can't figure out how to get the photos to load. They seem to appear as code and not photos. Any advice? Help!!