Hello all.I am a newbie... weaved 1 bathmat and a headband with worsted weight cotton.My loom is a clothes drying rack :-).
It is made of metal.The rods, in relation to each other, are like the inkle loom so I use heddle strings on the appropriate rod. Every dot represents a rod.I removed the lowest front rod and replaced the screws that held it on with a longer screw & a wing nut.I ran a string through that rod and suspended it from the rod above it.Then I used velcro to hold that rod down to the rod below it... insuring the rod is level. When I need to release tension I make the velcro longer.The heddle string loops are tied around a 15 ml bottle and I leave the tails and tie them on the heddle rod.When I tie them on I use a spacer (a thin metal rod from a pants hanger) so that they can be moved.Every warp is knotted in the front.I wrap the middle one first & then the 2 ends (selvedge warps) to stabilize the rod.Then I warp the rest... threading the heddled ones through the heddle loops.I have to keep the tension loose or the rods bend.The rack folds when not in use.Yay.I'm particularly interested in doing a Celtic Knot weave or some kind of curves or overlapping curves. Loom weaving drafts don't apply to my loom and neither do frame loom drafts. Inkle loom drafts are more like it except I can weave 24" wide and can't wrap my brain around enlarging a pattern... or how to somehow figure out how to apply other loom patterns to my loom.On rigidheddleweaving I saw that it is possible to use 4 string heddle sticks that sit on top of the weaving until you need to pull it up to create a shed.That is probably how I would accomplish a Twill or Celtic Knot... I think.Any guidance on accomplishing a curving pattern for my loom is appreciated.I have dial-up and a 22 year old computer so I don't have too many online options. Just retrieving e-mails is difficult. So was signing up here.I am soooo done with hours of internet searches and not finding anything useful on patterns.
You can actually use any 2 shed patter on your loom, because that is what you have. The main difference between what you are using to weave and a rigid heddle is that you do not have a heddle that automatically spaces your warps. Weavers wove cloth for many thousands of years without actually having a heddle what spaced the warps for them. I know it doesn't help specifically with the celtic knot.
You can also weave in the tapestry style, so you can put a drawing of the celtic knot behind your spaced out warp and weave the design with the wefts. I know you're quite new, so you will probably have more questions about this answer! :)
Thanks for the reminder. I get what you mean.It's like embroidery in a way. I am thinking about doing embroidered flowers on another bathmat. At this time I think tapestry Celtic Knots is too much for me. I am currently mulling over a pattern I saw...with written instructions that is helpful to me at this point. I think I will do a bunch of string heddle sticks to avoid manually picking up the floats. I think I need 6. I will be brainstorming on how to do that.
This is the link to the pattern I keep having AH HA moments about.
Please, how do I remove all the symbols from my posts when I use the symbol for and, start a new paragraph etc. It's probably very annoying to anyone reading it.
Yes a pick up pattern using string pick up sticks is a great solution as well.
I look forward to seeing you post your weaving here! Happy Weaving!
Thank you for responding again.I'm thinking of leaving heddle strings on the appropriate warp yarns & numbering them. Then when I need to pick up those warps I can put a stick on them to lift them... instead of having a bunch of sticks all at once.
I have a question about pick-up patterns for an RH loom. Sorry to bother you again. What does neutral mean? Is it that no warps are lifted & they are all flat together or are half of them lifted? I'm barely wrapping my brain around reading a pattern & applying the tie-up & treadling to my loom & pick up patterning.
OMG you are not bothering me at all. I am loving this conversation!
I think your idea of numbering the string heddles for the pattern pick up is pure genius!!!
Yes when reading about rigid heddle patterns the term neutrel means that no warps are pulled up or pushed down and all the warps (as you correctly identified) are flat and even with each other.
Please keep asking questions a long as you have them. This is exactly what the community is here for! :)
You might look for books on Navaho and Peruvian weaving; what your are doing is very similar. Navaho looms use one stick shed and one heddle bar to give two sheds without picking up threads by hand.
Actually, if you make four heddle bars (wooden rods supended above the warp with loops that each enclose a warp), you can use four shaft patterns that have been set up as a lift pattern for a table loom. A book on reading weaving drafts should show you how to convert a tie up pattern to a lift plan. Most would use weaving software for that, but with a 20+ computer and dial up, that's not in the future for you. To do the curved patterns you envision with your setup, I suggest you study tapestry.
Thanks Erica Ok, they are flat. Got it.That is always the starting point in patterns I have seen. I am thinking that since I have to lift color block number 2 twice but with different color blocks each time I might have to take the heddle string bar out.That is where the numbering comes in.
Thanks Sandra. I saw stuff about the one stick shed and one heddle bar idea. I could do that on the inkle and have 4 shafts right? You can't leave 2 sticks in & get both sheds though. When I saw 4 heddle string bars on a website I knew THAT was possible to expand my pattern possibilities.
LOL I thought the pattern drafts would be good for brain stimulation but think my brain's hard drive is crashing. Yay me for having the patience on dial-up to look at a number of websites on reading drafts. Just when I think I've got it, it slips away. And not all patterns have the same format.
Here's one I saved.
I think I understand the treadling part. My string heddle rods would correspond to the treadles right? Then the tieup... which shafts are attached to each treadle right? & it might be more than I shaft per treadle like the Celtic knot pattern I want to do. Both apply to my string heddle rods right? I don't understand the threading on these patterns.The pattern tells you which colors go on which heddle right? Shouldn't the pattern tell you if the colors are warped 1 to 1 or 1 to 2 or 1 to 3? How would a rigid heddle loom warp look when it's in neutral for these patterns?Where do I look for that information on the pattern?
I think you've got it. The draft and explanation you linked to are interesting. I think you would have less information to process if you just look for 4 shaft drafts here on Weavolution and then just think of each of your heddle rods as a shaft, because your heddle rods are the equivalent to a shaft.
There is a lot of extraneous explanation in how to use multiple rigid heddles to achieve multi-shaft designs. The way you are going around creating your shafts is actually in fact much easier than those who weave multi-shaft designs on rigid heddles. I hope that helps!
Thanks. That helps. I didn't get too far searching for patterns for heddle rods... mostly how to make them. What I don't quite understand is the threading part of patterns.
I actually don't understand how to read the pattern on the link I sent at all. Is that a lift pattern? HELP!
I looked at other patterns that have black or white squares & I'm a little closer to understanding how to read it from an explanation I found...
Let me know if this warping is correct.
Put the 1st warp thread on the 1st heddle according to the pattern.
Put the 2nd warp thread on the 2nd heddle according to the pattern.
& so on.
Is that how it's done?
I can't believe I still have the patience to search the internet!
I looked at this pattern
So I warp this one like I said above right?
It is overshot & finally 1 site explained it is done with a separate weft color, that tabby weave is under it (like if you removed the Rosepath you'd still have a complete weaved item) & you weave tabby between the pattern.
How is that accomplished when all four heddles are warped & treadled in a pattern other than tabby? What am I missing here?
This was the site that explained about the tabby weave
So glad that lots of the commenters on blogs say the have a hard time wrapping their brain around a pattern. It's not just me.
The Meilindis rose path pattern you linked to needs three heddle bars (one heddle bar =1 shaft in a conventional loom). With a ridid heddle, which the Meleindis article is about, one rigid heddle = two shafts or heddle bars. You can make plain weave with one rigid heddle, hence the atraction. If you look further down the page, you can see both written instructions and a pattern draft for threading this pattern. thread #1 is threaded one bar 3, #2 on 1, #3 on 2, #4 on 3, #5 on 1, #6 on 3, #7 on 2, #8 on 1. Your heddle bars do not correspond to treadles. If you look for patterns with a lift plan, or learn how to make a lift plan from a pattern with tie up and treadles, it will show you which heddle bars to raise to get the pattern. I would concentrate on learning how to make one pattern before jumping into different weave structures and multiple shuttles.
Here is an 8 shaft tie up. The threading is the top bar, the treadling the vertical bar, the square is how the treadles are tied to the shafts.
Here is the same pattern as a liftplan for use on a table loom (very similar set up to what you have, one shaft at a time is lifted). Each line of the vertical column shows what shafts are lifted for that pick.
You are certainlly inventive to see a drying wrack as a loom, but I think you will enjoy weaving more, and have more versatility with a real loom. The link above is to site selling a book of instructions to make a 4 shaft table loom out of PVC pipe. I made one to take to workshops, and the instructions are clear. You don't need any power tools to make it. It makes a loom large enough to weave 22" fabric on, but unlike your dryer, it doesn't fold. It does provide a tensioned warp on a warp. You can save some money on materials by making it smaller, and making your own heddles.
Thanks Sandra. The heddle bars do not correspond to treadles? Huh. The pattern tells you how to thread the heddles & then which one is tied to which treadle & then the treadling pattern... which in turn controls the heddles no?
On that 8 shaft pattern could you explain how the threads go on please? I see the threading pattern but don't understand where thread 1, 2, 3 etc goes. Are the threads on a 8 shaft so spread out on each heddle that I can thread the pink & the white on each heddle but they are not on top of each other. To me, it looks like a 4 layer cloth LOL.
Egads. I will have to mull over the lift plan until it sinks in. Thank you for the comparison.
I saw a PVC loom. I'm OK with mine. I don't have the room for another one. LOL I'm struggling to figure out where to put the heddle rods & the yarn that I have on order... but thank you for sending that. I bought a fat PVC pipe & end caps to store the heddle rods but the inside of the pipe smells awful. And that's after leaving it outside awhile & washing & hosing. I'm sensitive, to fresh wood too, that's why I'm using a metal drying rack. I saw someone construct an inkle loom out of a cardboard box & wooden dowels.:-)
At least I understand an inkle pick-up pattern. I already figured out how I can create another pattern by eliminating some of the pattern threads in the Celtic Knot inkle pick-up pattern. Yay me. :-). As I weave that pattern I'll get a better idea what happens to the threads so that maybe I can create other patterns.
The Rosepath is interesting & I figured it was a good example to get a handle on threading. I can see wasn't a good example to learn to read a regular pattern. Do I have it right that overshot (Rosepath) is that I go over my weave again with the pattern colors? sort of like emroidery in a way?
On the drafts above, each line of the threading represents a shaft. Each square represents a thread. The first thread is on shaft one, the second on shaft two, etc. In the tie up box, each vertical row represents one treadle. Note that each treadle is tied to several shafts. If you take a dowel, tie it to two or more of your heddle bars, THAT would be a treadle. The lift plan is a draft for a loom that does not have treadles, like a table or dobby loom. A basic book on weaving, like The Big Book of Weaving, by Lundel, or Mary Black's book, could help you a lot. Glimakra's website also has a lot of information on different types of looms and how they work.
Rosepath and overshot are two different things. Rosepath is a twill threading. The pattern you linked to is a rosepath threading, also called a point twill. Overshot is a weave structure using a base plain weave with pattern threads of a different color in floats. I would work on the basics of understanding how to do read a draft and understanding how a loom works before going to multiple wefts. Four shafts are required for overshot.
Another things that might help you is to go to a library or somewhere that has faster internet access and watch some youtube videos on weaving. People have put lots and lots of videos with everything from how to warp to using a flyshuttle on youtube.
Thanks. OK I got the threading. Right, I knew a treadle can be tied to several shafts. That's why I wanted to put numbered tags on threads so that I can change up my heddle rods when I need to. Somewhere I saw that Rosepath is overshot. Maybe that particular person did it as overshot. I saw a solid white towel with Rosepath trim. So that one had to be overshot. I THINK I know how to read a pattern now. The library is a huge endeavor for me... everywhere is actually. I am extremely sensitive to fragrance & mainstream cleaning products... dizzyness, brain fog, asthma, loss of motor function, blacking out. In extreme cases, loss of involuntary movement like blinking, breathing & swallowing - & seizures if I am given drugs by emergency medical. New books are a problem too. I now have yarn airing out outside for a week already. Weaving is something I started to get my mind off of my situation. I have 6 projects planned that I will take my time on & probably change the design ideas when I learn more. After that I'd have to wait for more yarn to air out if I can endure that.
Help! What do the numbers mean in the treadling sequence area?
The treadle number. Get a book.
Great question! I get this all the time in my beginning weaving classes!
Although sandra suggests getting a book, there are so many different weaving draft notations it's hard to cover them all. In the example you posted yes the numbers in the columsn correspond to using the draft with a floor loom where you are using treadles. For your situation, I would recommend printing it out in a format where you can turn the columns into a lift plan, where you actually number the shafts that you will raise. So treadle 1 lifts shafts 1 and 2.
I hope that helps!