We at Glimakra can answer your questions about new or used looms. Glimakra looms have not changed much over time, but even experienced weavers who have had their Glimakra loom a long time may have questions about their loom and attachments. Some weavers want to add shafts and treadles. Some older looms may need parts or new heddles, tie-up cord or a countermarch added. And we get a lot of questions about adding a drawloom to their Glimakra Standard or Ideal looms.
I have been teaching weaving for over 40 years and have woven on many different types of looms over the years. So, I am very familiar with most types of looms. We have information on our website for those who purchase new or used counterbalance and countermarch looms. So, if you have questions about barn frame looms, looms from other companies or just general questions, just ask.
5. If the loom is tied up correctly, does the universal tie-up
look different from the traditional tie-up? In other words, other
than the way the cords look, should the lamms, shafts, and treadles
look similar in photos and drawings regardless of the cording?
First, you are asking about the universal tie-up, which allows you to make more sheds than you have treadles for, by pressing on two at a time. I would like to explain that on the Standard loom, one can add treadles. So, if you don't have enough treadles, you can add more, up to 12. Now, the newer looms can have up to 16 treadles.
There are two ways to tie up treadles which result in needing to push down with both feet on two different treadles, both at the same time. For this to be successful, it is best to have all the treadles touch the floor when the shed is good. Because if you don't, you need to coordinate your feet and push them down just the right amount in order to get a good shed. Push a little further with one foot, which often happens, and you will have a poor shed.
One time you would do this is the skeleton tie-up. This is used when you don't have enough treadles, which usually does not happen with four shaft weaves. But, sometimes you don't have enough treadles, or you cannot add enough treadles, as is sometimes the case with summer and winter treadle tie-ups on drafts with more than four shafts. A skeleton tie-up reduces the number of treadles you need. One frequently has two treadles for the plain weave of summer and winter, so when you weave, every other shot is treadled with one foot. The pattern shot requires pushing down with both feet. There is no universal summer and winter skeleton tie-up. You make the tie-up for the draft you are making.
The universal tie-up
This the other time you press on two treadles at a time, but it is different. It is a treadle tie-up for four shaft weaves, using 8 treadles. It also requires using both feet to make a shed. And you need to use both feet for every shed. When you press on two treadles, you still have the same number of treadle cords, two for up and two for down. But when tying up two treadles to do this, you put only two cords on each treadle. And some treadles are different because they make 3/1 sheds.
The double treadling is less comfortable and is slower. It can also affect your balance. So it is not chosen unless there is a need for it. And, for patterns like overshot, it is almost impossible to memorize your pattern. You have added two treadles to the treadling instructions and you need to remember two numbers for each shed.
Yes, I know, it means that you don't need to change your tie-up. And, a weaver can be afraid to change the countermarch tie-up of the treadles, but really, it isn't that hard. Mary Jean came to work yesterday after tying up 8 treadles for a new huck weave project she started. She has had her Ideal loom for 18 months. She walked in the door and said that she did the tie-up and it only took 15 minutes. And, remember, the Standard loom is easier to tie up than the Ideal.
When I have students here who have Glimakra looms, or any other loom with Texsolv for the treadle tie-up, I have them put a treadle on the table and practice putting the anchor pins into the treadle. This makes a big difference. You need to learn the motions of using the pins when you are sitting comfortably at a table and then you can easily do it when you are tying up the treadles.
5. If I am using only 4 shafts, do I leave the other 4 unused
shafts tied-up with the heddles pushed to the side, which is what I
have currently done?
Weavers do what is or appears to be easier for them. Plus, if you have experience on a jack loom or a table loom where it can be very difficult or nearly impossible to remove extra shafts which aren't being used, you have habits which stick with you.
It is common is Sweden to only have on the loom the shafts and lamms which you are using. It is also common to only have the treadles you are using. In the US, many weavers think it is easier to leave the extra parts on the loom. However, thinking this sometimes coming from having jack loom experience.
If you have been weaving on more than four shafts and then you want to thread just four, you may not have enough heddles on those first four shafts. In this case, it will be easier to take the extra shafts and their lamms off the loom. You can leave the tie-up cords on the countermarch jacks and just tie them to each other to get them out of the way.
If you know that you will go back to using the extra shafts for the next warp, you may be tempted to leave them in place. But remember that you will have more loom waste and it may be more uncomfortable to work around those extra shafts. Personally, I think it is easier to remove the lamms and shafts. To do that, put the shaft holders on the shafts you need to remove. Take off the tie up cords which come from the countermarch and then put wire pins in the ends of the shaft bars, or use a string to tie them together. Release the shafts from the upper lamms. Then the shafts just lift off the shaft holders. Once you have done this, you will realize how easy it is. And, you probably won't leave them on again when they are not being used.
One of my looms is an older Glimakra 150 cm Standard (my lower beater bar has one bolt on each side). My upper lamms are shorter in length than the lower lamms. I tie the loom up so that the upper and lower lamms are parallel to each other and to the floor so that they come straight out from the side, in other words, not tied high or low (with, of course, the locking pins in place). I tie the treadles so that the top of the treadle ends up even with the top of the foot beam. I sit on the floor at the front to peg the treadles (not to put the lamm ties in, but to just finish up with pegging the ties into the treadles). I start the treadles lower than the top of the foot beam, depending on how many shafts I have (how many holes I will use in the treadle). I do two holes at the same height, then raise up by a Texsolv buttonhole every two treadle holes until I am finished. I finish up by pegging the last two holes to bring the treadle top level to the foot beam top. I start by pegging the treadle holes nearest to the front of the loom, working toward the back.
This method is perfect for my particular model of loom, and I almost never have to adjust treadles or lamms once I've finished the tie up.
My heddles are the 'white tie' ones that are recommended for these looms. Hope that's helpful ... Joanne has covered just about everything, but thought I'd add my little bit. I also have an Ideal and pretty much do the same thing on it.
There really shouldn't be more loom waste with shafts left on when not in use. I tell you why. There is no way you can create a shed with the tie on rod up next to threaded heddles. The shafts with the heddles pulled to the sides is just open space and 4 shafts does not add but maybe 4 inches. Most folks will only weave up to within several inches away from the harnass if you want a decent shed to open up. For me, this only applies to narrow warps, up to half the weaving space of the loom. Any wider I would definitely remove the unused shafts.
However, that being said, I usually remove my unused shafts. But I just have not considered leaving them before, and I may change my methods. :)
Thank you Toni and Reed guy,
Your input will be helpful to weavers. The new Glimakra looms are different from the older ones, which also complicates the instructions. The Ideal has been 2 inches taller (breast beam height) over the last 20 plus years, so the upper lamms on the newer Ideal looms can be put higher, as that is where the most extra space is. And of course, the Standard can have up to 16 shafts, which also may change how one warps the loom.
Again, thanks for your messages.
Joanne: I mistakenly told you that the lower lamms on my loom are 43 inches. The back four are 43 inches, but the front 4 are shorter, the same length as the upper lamms. How will this affect the tie-up and operation?
For this warp, put the longer lamms on the front of the loom to use with the front four shafts and take the shorter ones off if you are weaving with four shafts. When you weave with more than four, put the short ones on the back.
Read the instructions about lamms on our website in the countermarch file. Then tell me what happens after you have woven an inch or two. Put the locking pins back in and then take them out. If everything is balanced, the shafts will not fall, or if they do, they fall only 1/4 to 1/2 inch or so.
Not sure if you are still bothered by squeaking. I had the same problem. I drip candle wax into the grooves that the beater rests in. I add more wax when it starts to squeak again! An easy fix.
That's a good point about the number of shafts. I have 12 shafts on my Standard, and am able to use the same technique even with all 12 shafts in place.
Thanks for all the help you provide with Glimakras!
Ranch rags and I just had a very nice discussion of her little School loom that she found used from Sara von Treschow's shop. This loom was originally sold as a four shaft counterbalance, but the countermarch and extra shafts were added by someone here in the US. Ranch rags is doing a lot of weaving on it and was asking about the size of the shed.
Discussions about sheds come up frequently when discussing looms in general. For Glimakra looms, this usually leads to describing the lengths of the heddles, heights of lamms and treadles and setting the shafts at the correct height.
But Glimakra looms give you so many different adjustments, that you need to look at the whole tie-up. In this case we discussed the V cord in the center of the countermarch. This would have been made by the weaver who added the countermarch to this loom. I have not heard anyone bring this up before so I thought that I would mention it.
The tops of the V cord spread apart when making a shed. So, if that V cord is made too short, it will stop the shed from opening completely. We think that the weaver who originally made this tie up, cut this cord too short.
So, you might check this V cord on your loom. The Glimakra Julia V cord is 18 inches long. In the tie-up kit for the Standard loom it is 19 inches long.
So, if you are having problems getting a large enough shed, make sure your V cord is long enough.
Sometime in the 1960's here in NB a number of community schools had looms. These were brick schools, and 4 classrooms at most. Sometimes wooden structure, but they were older. Anyway, as time passed on, these schools were closed and old school looms lay in storage in the basements or where ever they got stored. Often the schools got converted to a community hall after being purchased for something like a $1 as the government was off loading the buidings and land. And some of these old looms would often be found. Some may have ended up in local homes, but I suspect most got destroyed as buildings were cleared out. Very few folks around here have ever taken up weaving, few and far between. But we do have a regional Community College that was set up back in the 40's I beleive for foot powered loom weavers. The college still exists and probably has been moderized to industrial looms. There were a number of textile factories that got established by government funding and I think by the end of the 90's they've all finished. Couldn't compete with Asia and Latin America. Sign of the times.
.....with a little help from my friends! A successful tie-up! I just wanted to report back that with help from Joanne, Reedguy, and Cottageweaver I got my loom "sort of' working. Then Bruce Bannerman, manufacturer of Purrington looms in West Virginia, made a home-visit and got me set-up with plain weave. In the past two days, I have tied-up (all by myself!) for twill and basketweave. I am so excited! I am sure that I will have many more questions, but I truly appreciate having your expertise to get me started! Until next time.....
I received this in my email. But it is a repeat. Maybe Weavolution burped this morning. Or Carol, are you asking a question?
I had some old notification emails as well Joanne. I figure the boss must be working on 'stuff'. :)
I have an opportunity to buy Aktiva loom. Unfortunately, I can not find any information on it except one picture and that tye up is different from regular cm loom. Are there any information or manuals regarding this loom? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
There have been two Glimakra floor looms with the name Aktiv. One was a 1970s large floor loom and it had large round steel beams. It is a lot like the current Standard loom and could be ordered either counterbalance or countermarch with up to 10 shafts.
The second Aktiv loom was made in the 80s and it was an 8 shaft folding countermarch floor loom.
What information do you need? They are both very nice looms.
Thank you Joanne. It was the folding one, but I did not react fast enough and now it is gone. No luck getting a smaller size Glimakra in Canada.
When you get a Glimakra loom, write to me and I can send you a couple files of information to help you. Just write to me at: orders at glimakrausa.com
I've found a used Glimarka CB loom for sale. I was looking for a CB because I was told it will have a better shed than the jack loom I've been using. I've been weaving rag rugs. This loom is thirty years old and taken apart so I can't test it first. I think it has string heddles. It's 39" width but I'm not sure of the model. I could change to texsolv heddles. Is there anything I should be concerned with before I go look at this loom? Everybody seems to like this make of loom so maybe I'm stumbeling onto a good thing. :>)
This loom, with four shafts, six treadles, counterbalance tie-up would sell for about $1500-2,000. You can get parts for this loom, so it would be just fine. You can add a countermarch and more shafts if you like.
Joanne, where or how are you measuring? I assume you mean the cord that comes down from the center of the top horizontal jacks?
I measured from bottom of jack to center of V then doubled, on my Ideal its 12"... too short? It came to me this way....
I was trying to tie up a couple weeks ago, twisted a muscle, so have not been able to finish it yet.... tieup is all I lack doing! :)
Thank you for helps, I have your book. kathyo in TXi
When the tie-up is complete, watch that V cord as you treadle. When the jacks pull that cord up, it needs to be long enough for the jacks to separate so that the shed can be made. It sounds like yours is long enough.
The Montana Weavers and Spinners has their state conference in Great Falls next weekend www.mawsonline.com. If you are in the area, do stop by. Or, plan to attend June 6,7 and 8. There is no charge to see the exhibits and spend time in the vendor hall. We will have some Glimakra looms set up for weaving. This is a great conference so I hope you will consider attending.
I just noticed that the Ideal loom does not appear in the 2014 price list, scheduled to go into effect on July 1, 2014.
Is the Ideal loom being discontinued?
EDIT: NM, I'm told this is a done deal and all the Ideals are gone from Glimakra USA - so unless there are still some at a dealer's somewhere, no more new Ideals are to be had.
I guess I'm not surprised, given that the Julia is roughly the same weaving width (a little less) as the 27" Ideal, and you've come out with a 39" Standard. So the Ideal is sort of competing with other Glimakra looms at this point.
I bought a second-hand Glimakra (Standard vertical countermarche, 150cm width) loom a few years ago and am looking forward to getting back into weaving after a lengthy break. The loom came with a fly shuttle attachment and second beam but as there were no instructions I'm having a bit of difficulty figuring out how to attach and set them up. Would you perhaps have any downloadable instructions or be able to recommend me a book? In relation to the second beam, I think I have most of the necessary bits but can't understand how the ratchet 'brake' (metal stopper) attaches as there is no hole in the loom post for the bolt like there is in the lower beam position. There is a small rotating rectangular piece of wood with rotating plastic disc/pulley screwed into the back left post and I have no idea what this is for. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Please write to me at
joanne at glimakrausa.com
Then I can send attachments.
And, send a photo of the part you do not recognize.
My Glim is currently in pieces, and I don't remember if the back brake is on the left - if it is, my guess the pulley is for a cord for releasing the pawl.
- I have never used such a device (cord missing on all Glims I have ever used), but have always wondered: how would it be possible to control the release? When I go to the beam, I can release a specific number of cogs, controlled by me. How can that be controlled when one is sitting at the front of the loom?
Dear all, I am a new user of looms, and I have a nice Glimakra Victoria.
Can I ask you some indications regarding how to warp it? There are tons of youtube videos, but I cannot find anything for a table loom like mine. A written tutorial might be helpful as well: everything veeery detailed can help, because I am completely lost, and unable to create a uniform tension in the warp
This might be a silly question...my new (used) standard loom has ratchets on both sides of the beams, but only one release handle on the right side. It sure seems like I should add a release handle on the left side. I am hesitating because I'm confused as to why a previous owner didn't do it. I primarily weave rugs. Maybe the previous owner didn't plan on weaving with high tension???
If your model is around 63" wide, you wont need two ratchet and pawls I beleive, but Joanne may have a better answer.
I have a similar loom, not precisely the same, and one ratchet with pawl is lots strong. I don't weave rugs, but some of the projects I do require a rather firm beat like a rug would get. Never fails.
The release levers found on some countermarche looms are sometimes difficult to use. The pawls are mounted at an angle intended to keep the warp under tension. That angle makes them difficult to release using a lever from the front of the loom. Usually the weaver must release a notch or two at the front to get that rear pawl to lift up.
On your loom, there are two ratchets for when you decide that you need them - mainly for wide pieces woven under high tension. For a narrow or medium wide warp in the center of the loom, you could disengage the pawl without release lever and your project would be fine. I'd look at this as an extra feature that might be very useful at times - and at those times, you'd be getting off the bench to adjust both sides.
Coordinating two levers from the bench is theoretically possible, but not practical.
I am very new to weaving and don't even own a loom yet though I have decided that if i purchase it will be a Glimakra. My concerns are having sufficient room for the loom and not purchasing a loom that will limit my weaving choices. Can you tell me what the footprint of the Glimakra Standard loom is? Does the Glimakra web site show dimensions of the various Standard Loom Configurations? How much room/space do you need to have around the loom so as not to inhibit access/operation. What is the expandability of the Glimakra Standard loom?
When you warp the loom, you need to be able to stand at the front, on the right and at the back of the loom. When you are weaving, you don't need much space on the left side of the loom, or the back of the loom.
You can add a draw loom if you want to weave complex weaves. And you can add up to 16 shafts and treadles on the wider Standard. It needs to be at least 47 inches wide. The 40 inch Standard can have up to 10 shafts.
You can also add a fly shuttle and a double warp beam. You can add a loom extension if you want greater depth, as with the drawloom.
If you are more specific about what you mean by limiting your weaving choices or by expandability of the loom, I can give you a more specific answer.
The Standard loom has the same height and depth for each of the different weaving widths.
Depth of loom frame for all models: 56 inches, breast beam to back beam. Note the warp beam ratchet wheel handle sticks out an extra 6 inches to the back on the right side.
Width of loom frame: The loom frame is approx 5 inches wider than the weaving width. The beater is about 12 inches wider than the weaving width. The width of the 47 inch standard is nearly 60 inches.
Height loom frame: 63 inches plus countermarch. Total height with beater is 68 inches. Height including vertical countermarch is 74 inches.
Standard loom with drawloom
Height of drawloom: 74 inches
Loom depth with drawloom: 74 inches or more if desired.
I just purchased an 8 shaft Julia and finished my first project which was a 4 shaft pattern. I had a problem with the upper lamms getting caught on the lower ones (instead of them sliding past the lower lamms) and not being able to depress them completely at times. Is there a remedy for this?
Thank you, Middy
Thanks for the detailed response. You have answered many of my questions. Looking at the web site it wasn't clear to me which looms could be expanded as far as the number of shafts is concerned. Looking at page two of your catalog, 47" Standard Looms are listed both as expandable to 10 shafts and expandable to 16 shafts yet you say that the dimensions are the same and all 47" and above are expandable up to 16 shafts. So what is the difference between the two 47" looms as listed in the catalog? What does it take to expand each of these to 16 shafts?
Two things concern me. One is my available space for the loom and that is why I asked about necessary floorspace/footprint of the various sizes of Standard looms. The second issue is that I don't want to limit myself to simple weaving patterns by buying a loom that does not have significant expandability.
I have read some books, purchased and watched some videos, researched on-line and signed up for some classes that will help me decide if I really want to start yet another activity. I know that I could start with a less capable loom but if I really enjoy what I'm doing I will soon want to do something more complicated and do not want to be held back by a loom that will not grow and expand with my interests. I do not want to start small and move up. I know smaller looms ar less expensive but cost is not an issue for me. I would rather pay more up front and avoid the hassle of changing horses and learning another new loom. My significant other is very excited about my weaving interest. She has taken over the living room for her quilting/sewing studio. My loom room will be the dining room that we never use for dining just as we never used the living room for living. We are both engineers so the initial complexity of a large loom doesn't bother me. I'm in my mid 60's and figure that I have at least ten good years ahead to learn and practice weaving. I don't know how far I will get or even if I'll take the plunge and purchase a loom.
I went to a weaving guild show and spoke to several accomplished weavers. All of them use Glimakra looms. As an engineer I see advantages to the Glimakra wedge construction and I've heard no negative comments about the Standrd loom. This is an adventure and I'm still in the discovery/research mode. Any additional comments or advice appreciated.
The upper lamms should not have to pass the lower lamms. The solution is that the two sets of lamms need to be tied so that they are not that close together. This may require that your treadles be tied a little lower.
Please write to me at jo[email protected] and I can help you to make the adjustments.
One of the nice things about the Glimakra Standard loom is that it is so versatile. You are concerned that you may want to expand to more complex weaves. Many weavers find that when you get to 16 shafts, you simply have expanded on a basic weave and the pattern gets bigger and yes, more complex, but there are limits to what you can do. So, many weavers will add the drawloom to their loom. The drawloom will give you far more than just weaving with more shafts and treadles. Not only can you weave more complex and larger patterns, but you can weave images. You can even weave your name or text in the middle of a pattern.
And it is not really very difficult to learn this. No computer is necessary and no electricity is necessary.
Enjoy your weaving classes and I am sure you will have fun. Report back to us after your class.
Again, thanks so much for answering my questions. One that you missed was in the first paragraph of my last message. This is important as I would like to start smaller and move up if it is possible - without changing looms. Perhaps a 47" Standard 8/10 for starters as long as it can be upgraded to 16/16. Here is the original question from my previous post...
Looking at page two of your catalog (page 2 left side), 47" Standard Looms are listed both as expandable to 10 shafts and expandable to 16 shafts yet you say that the dimensions are the same and all 47" and above are expandable up to 16 shafts. So what is the difference between the two 47" looms as listed in the catalog? What does it take to expand each of these to 16 shafts?
Thanks for your response!
Mine (110 cm Standard) has 20" to the wall on the right side as I sit at the loom. I have my trapeze and raddle on the floor next to the wall so there is less floor space. At the back I have 30" to some files and a book case, also with stuff on the floor next to it. And on the left there is 24" to my desk. There is about 30" from the breast beam to where my other desk chair goes. I can work fine in such a limited space, but I'm also on the small side (5'4") and fairly flexible .... Maybe that helps?
Thanks Ingamarie. I have determined that I have sufficient floor space to accommodate the standard loom of my choice. The only remaining isssue is to make sure that the loom I choose can be expanded to 16 shafts. In a previous post Joanne said, "You can add a draw loom if you want to weave
complex weaves. And you can add up to 16 shafts and treadles on the wider Standard. It needs to be at least 47 inches wide." The Glimakra catalog seems to indicate that there are two different configurations of the 47" Standard Loom. One is expandable to 10 shafts and the other up to 16 shafts. This is different than Joanne's comment. Perhaps the catalog dosen't go into detail. Height is another issue that I have. I was 6' 6" but have shrunk a bit with age and am now down to 6' 4". My legs are more or less normal. It is my sitting height (seat to top of head) that is very long. I also have 14 1/2 EEEE shoe size - I may have trouble with treddles.
Thanks for your help!
You're right, we don't have the price for that on the price list. We have 22 different options, but there can be more.
So, when there is a price request for a combination or some other request that is not on the list, then we have to determine what that price would be. The 8x10 on the list is expandable to 10 or 12 shafts or treadles. To expand to 16 would be a different loom and a higher price. It is more common for someone who wants to expand to 16 shafts to already want about 12 shafts, or it might be someone who just wants more treadles, so we do not list that loom with fewer shafts. But, we can sell it with fewer. What we do is take a 16 shaft loom and remove the extra shafts, lamms and treadles and make some other small adjustments to make it an 8 shaft loom. The 16 shaft loom is more expensive, so we just adust the price accordingly. A way to estimate that is to take the price for 12 shafts and then reduce that price. The important thing is for you to determine what you want and then tell us.
In addition, it is good for you to learn about looms. And they are different from one company to another. It is very common for a person who has a jack loom, to assemble the loom with all the shafts and then never change it. It can be very hard, or even impossible to weave on the loom if you take some shafts out of the loom.
But, with a Glimakra loom this is not the case. You can purchase a 16 shaft loom and then weave with just two shafts. The extra parts can be put on a shelf. And it would be much easier to weave with two shafts if you don't have all those other parts in your way. It is the same with attachments (drawloom, double warp beam, fly shuttle). They can easily be put on the loom and then taken off when you are not using them.
This is a little plug, although I don't own the exact loom in question. Yes these looms are very versatile from all I have read about them. I have a similar one to a standard. The shafts are real easy to work with. Right now I am weaving pile cloth, I only needed 5 shafts (I have 8) so I took out the unused 3, took their jack texsov cords and secured the upper and lower lamms with them and pegs. The lamms are not in the way of business, so I weave uninhibited. The lamms stay stationary and otherwise you would have to examine them to see they aren't hooked up.
Joanne is very helpful.
Designing a pique draft at the moment to weave an overshot design (got two warp beams).
Merry Christmas :)
Thanks so much for answering all of my newbie questions. Your explanation makes perfect sense and underscores the flexibility of your Standard loom. Kathy and I have enrolled in a beginner's 4 shaft weaving class in Boulder, CO that starts in April. What I learn in that class will help me decide whether or not to take on yet another hobby. Thanks again for your informative and timely responses. Thanks also to the others that have chimed in. Wishing Happy Holidays and Fabulous New Year to all!
Is this Shuttles Spindles and Skeins? Have fun in the class. I may be teaching for them next winter. Are they providing you with a floor loom or do you start on a smaller loom?
Yes it is at Shuttles, Spindles and Skeins. I don't know what kind of loom we will be working with though they fold and are portable (baby wolf prehaps, I'm just guessing) The classes are on Tuesday nights and we take their looms home to do our homework for the next class. I expect to learn a lot about basic weaving and about myself. In June we are traveling to Window Rock, AZ to weave with the Navajo. A different kind of weaving from what we will learn in Boulder but an interesting experience I'm sure. We are traveling most of next year from the end of February through September. A loom purchase decision will likely be made next winter. If the class you are teaching for S,S & S isn't over our heads as new weavers, perhaps we will see you there. We both love learning!
There is another shop in Golden, CO that is closer. I believe you have held classes there. Unfortunately they didn't seem to interested in people new to the craft. We spent 30 minutes in the shop and no one ever spoke with us. So now we drive through Golden to get to the Boulder shop where we found the staff much more open and welcoming.
Do you have a couple treadles that are moving opposite shafts from one another? Otherwise you might have to do a modified plain weave with one direction (warp or weft) going over 2 theads instead of one. If your main body is a twill and you weave plain on the hems they will look a bit flaired since your twill will shrink more because of the floats.