Hi,

I'm wondering if it is possible to weave a structural collapse weave (i.e. something like waffle weave, where floats produce the collapse effect) on a four shaft straight draw threading?  I know waffle weave can be done on a point threading on four shafts, but I don't think it can be done on a straight draw - or can it?  I'm not looking for drastic collapse, just enough to provide some texture and maybe some widthwise shrinkage.

By way of explanation, I'm working with a 3-block doubleweave draft on 24 shafts, with 8 shafts per block (i.e. 4 shafts per layer).  The profile draft is on Weavolution here: http://www.weavolution.com/node/9652 , and the first draft (which includes the expanded threading) is also on Weavolution, here: http://www.weavolution.com/node/9654 .

Now I'm trying to think what else could be done on this threading.  I've always wanted to play with collapse weaves, and I like the three-dimensional effects you can get by using collapse in just one of two interchanging layers.  But I can't figure out how to get a collapse using just four shafts, threaded up straight draw.

I could switch the threading to a point threading, but that would completely throw off my first draft, and I do want to use that one because I think it's pretty.  (A simulation of what it will look like when completed is on my blog here: http://www.tienchiu.com/2010/06/sometimes-simpler-is-better/ (last image).)

Any thoughts on how, if at all, I can work collapse into this threading?  Is it structurally possible?  I don't mind re-sleying, and I just bought some interesting silk/lycra blend, so maybe the answer is to re-sley to a more open sett, and use one weft that shrinks?

Tien

Comments

Karren K. Brito

I have woven collapse fabric on a RH loom and the first ones I saw were ancient Andean ones, woven on back-strap looms with hand-spun.  The collapse depends a lot on yarn structure and sett -I used two very different yarns; one soft spun and thicker and one with more twist but finer.  Sett was determined by the thicker yarn so the fine one was very open. I had some that I thought would collapse but didn't.  Weave structure can encourage collapse or direct it but I think it is depends on yarn structure,  such one yarn shrinks and the other doesn't.  Sample, sample...

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