Additional Source Info
<p>Many thanks to Bonnie Inouye for directing me to the correct source! This draft is from her twill gamp on page 24 of Twill Thrills: row 5, column 3.</p>
Author(s)
14107

Comments

Mon, 03/24/2014 - 21:33

Bonnie Inouye (not verified)

This draft, using this tie-up (3/1/2/2) and at least one more, was included in an article I wrote for Weaver's magazine in 1994, long before Weavolution was started. That article was included on pages 22-25 in the book, Twill Thrills, from the Best of Weaver's series (recently reprinted). I uploaded a more recent version of the gamp in that article to the handweaving.net website. I also wrote about advancing twills for Weaver's magazine in 1991. Madelyn van der Hoogt was the editor of Weaver's, which ended some years ago, and she gave the names "advancing twill" and "advancing point". She used "advancing twill" for a segment of a straight draw threading and/or treadling which begins on one shaft and then is repeated like a rubber stamp with a new starting place, moving up by a given number. For example, a 5-end advancing twill starts 1-2-3-4-5, then moves up by 1 step: 2-3-4-5-6, then 3-4-5-6-7, etc. Since points are twills with reversals, an advancing point falls in the broader category of "advancing twill", but there are some interesting ways in which advancing points are different.

Weavolution is not the source of any draft. It is a place where some weavers choose to share information. If somebody chooses to share an original draft, then the source is that weaver.

If you choose a smaller point, like 1-2-3-4-3-2, then it falls into the group known as "crackle".

Any advancing sequence creates a diagonal progression. When you have a diagonal progression in the threading and the treadling and a diagonal tie-up, this makes cloth with a diagonal. The sequence you chose has 56 threads per repeat. Some diagonal progressions are larger than this and some are smaller. A 5-end advancing twill has a repeat of 40 ends when used with 8 shafts. It is one of many alternative treadlings for this threading.

Bonnie Inouye

Mon, 03/24/2014 - 23:54

ReedGuy

I find advancing twills quite striking. When a varigated weft is used it also gives them another dimension. :)

Tue, 03/25/2014 - 01:16

Gwen A

Thank you, Bonnie, for steering me straight on your draft and correct attribution, and giving me a mini-education on correct terminology. I have much to learn in between the shuttle passes!

Tue, 03/25/2014 - 19:02

Bonnie Inouye (not verified)

Weaving terminology (in English) is still evolving. There is a group here with occasional discussions on weaving terms.

Drafts with advancing sequences exist in books from the early 1900s and probably before, sometimes with names. "Offset" was used for advancing sequences but also used for a sequence like that in a dornik twill (where some threads have been deleted from a more common sequence). When weaving software was developed in the 1980s, there was a tool for creating advancing sequences in an early Apple program. The software developer called the tool "creep", but weavers using the tool gave various names to the resulting drafts. Weaver's magazine was influential. I believe the first articles in Weaver's to include advancing twills with this name were in 1993. Ingrid Boesel and I worked together on a pair of articles which were in the same issue of Weaver's. Ingrid's 1993 article is in Twill Thrills starting on page 38 and mine is in Twill Thrills starting on page 106. I have no idea why they were separated in the book! You can take any segment of a twill and advance it by any number to get a sequence. Some of these are quite useful for making drafts and others are of limited interest. Now most weaving programs include a tool called "advance".

If you decide that you like using advancing points, look at other sizes of points and also try different tie-ups and treadlings. I wrote a pair of articles for the online weaving magazine, WeaveZine, using advancing piont threadings in different ways. WeaveZine is no longer produced but it is maintained so you can find those articles online at no cost. There are a lot of interesting articles there and also some recorded interviews. Take a look! www.weavezine.com

Bonnie Inouye

Number of Shafts
8
Number of Treadles
8
Publication Date
2004
Source Title
The Best of Weaver's Twill Thrills
This Draft is from
book