Here's some pics of my homebuilt Jane, first project completed.

Many parts 3d-printed, others of red oak, hackberry, black walnut.

Homebuilt 1

 

This weave was selected from an 80s Handwoven article.. a lace, modelled out on one of the commonly available weave programs.

Heddles are TexSolv, the reed is Louet.

Another view

 

Considerable differential tension on the warp, which is pretty hard rug cotton.  The drink bottles are arranged in the warp groupings to restrict tensions to the various warp groups, the bottle hangers are 3d-printed.  Attempting this using only the warp beam/ratchets to pull tension proved impossible, as the pattern warps always draw much quicker than the plain weave portions.

Bottles

 Various loom tools hand made, the shuttle sticks are simple pine.  The heddle hooks are 3d-printed, too.

Almost done

 Heddle sticks are red oak, and the harness hangers are 3d-printed.

A shed

This is the 4th loom I've built over the last 35 years.

 The last was an A-frame tapestry loom.  Before that was a 10-harness Swedish pattern countermarch, built of mahogany, birch, pine... quite a large loom, given away to someone in Dallas, Tx about 14-15 years back.

Comments

Sun, 11/27/2016 - 16:53

danteen (not verified)

Looks as though it works well.

Congrats.

Sun, 11/27/2016 - 21:22

ReedGuy

It seems to be holding up to the task. I would wonder how strong the 3d printed parts would be. Is there much force on those parts? If two wood screws can hold tension on the front beam there, then the forces can't be all that high I suppose.

Sun, 11/27/2016 - 19:05

Queezle

Thank you for sharing this.  I am also curious about your 3d printed parts, as I do not know how strong they are.  Please continue to post your projects - I know that there are many here who are interested.

Sun, 11/27/2016 - 20:00

keith20mm

I am using PLA polylactic acid filament for the printed parts.

The printed parts are hard, hard, are not brittle. 

It is very difficult to sand a part.  They can be heat-altered around 280-300F. 

Generally, if the part is not correct dimension, it is easier to correct and print a new part, rather than try to alter a created part.

With this particular plastic, I've made parts for milling machinery, lathes, kitchen equipment, curtain hangers, various plastic boxes, electronics mounting parts, etc, I'd guess around a thousand different things, in the last 4 years of printer ownership.

The ratchets do not slip, the toggles are very stiff, the pulleys work smoothly.

Were I to use other materials, I'd probably use aluminum, and then anodize the parts to keep smudges off threads/fabrics.

Using the same software that I use to design parts (Cubify Design), I modelled the entire loom, every single piece, including a few drilling jigs.

Once I had the design completed, I exported many of the parts to .stl files, then converted those to .dxf files, and then imported these .dxf files into Vectric Aspire.  Once I had the wood parts in Aspire, I used it to create CNC tool paths to run my 3d router gantry to machine the wood parts, such as diagonals, toggle shelf, castle parts, etc.

All parts completed, they entire loom was completed EXACTLY as the design looked.  Every screw exactly fit into predrilled holes.  Every piece fit perfectly.

The beater steel tubing was done by taping the two arms together, heating the bend area with propane, and bending to the desired angle.  Both came out exactly the same, and correct design angle.

The beater pivots even worked exactly.

Truth be known, I was highly impressed how 'exact' the entire thing went together.  I have been designing many other machine things since I did this loom, converting a small metal turning lathe to CNC, etc.  It is so much nicer than draw/try/fit cross-fingers, and hope for the best, when you make parts, and they fit exactly.

Sun, 11/27/2016 - 20:10

Queezle

Wow.  I will have to learn more about 3d printing.  I can see this really could be useful in so many areas of life.  Thanks again for sharing.

Sun, 11/27/2016 - 21:28

ReedGuy

That is fascinating to be quite truthful. I imagine the software and printer, not to mention the substance used to print the models can be spendy. But it seems like a lot of time saved in doing it this way. As some one once said, if you've got it, use it. :)

Mon, 11/28/2016 - 16:57

keith20mm

Somewhat off the weaving discussion, but definitely in the realm of creativity, and to further illucidate on the 3d printer aspects of loomery:

 

Wanhao Duplicator I3 runs around $500, a 1kg (2.2lb) spool of filament around $15, and that is a lot of printing.

 

The machine I got years ago is the Wanhao Duplicator 4, ran around $850 for the unit, $1100 shipped from China.

 

Wanhao now has a place in Miama, shipping is generally less.

The Dup 4 has dual extruders, which I have never used, and really have no use for more than a single extruder.  I removed the 2nd extruder nozzle so it's clear of the platform.

 

Cubify Invent is essentially the same program as Design, but doesn't allow to create an assembly of separate parts.  Invent is (was) $50 or so.

 

For both programs, Invent and Design, there are many, many tutorials explaining usage.  It is quite intuitive to design a thing.

 

The printing software comes with the printer, or is free from MakerWare.. there's two common printing tools, ReplicatorG and Makerware.  You just take a model (.stl file), either from one of your designs, or downloaded from ThingAVerse, place it on the simulated platform, position it as desired, and press the Print button.  This creates a file suitable for the 3d printer or can be downloaded directly into the printer using USB cable, alternatively, the printer can run that file directly, printing the object.

 

Both RepG and Makerware have the capability to tell how much filament is required for the object, and how long it will take to print.  Both are pretty accurate.

 

The created models are not necessarily solid, depending on how you set the "slicing" program.  The internal structure can be squares, or hexagons, or other.  This keeps you from using so much plastic.  Generally, as previously mentioned, the objects are HARD, SOLID external forms.  If you happen to require some internal structure, such as a tube, just design it in, and the slicer will place it as desired.  You can tell the slicer how many "shells" to use in any particular internal wall.

 

Undercuts in an object require a little thought to produce, as the extruder cannot just squirt plastic into free space with the expectation that it will not droop.  There are "supports" that the slicer can add on, which you break off later, or you can orient the part differently on the platform.

 

One gets the hang of it all pretty quickly.

 

Yes, 3d printer is Extremely Useful item to have around the home.

Tue, 11/29/2016 - 03:11

10ashus

...over the centuries. Wow! The tools to build them sure do. What a wonderful explanation and a splendid loom.