Hello all,

A while back some of you helped get me started on some simple sett samples.  Now, after completing my first twill sampler, I'm heading back to sett sampling.  As some of you may remember, while preparing my loom for the twill sampler (which had complicated threading and a striped warp) I had some problems with twisted warp threads.  So far I have only learned to warp front-to-back.  After our discussions and some additional reading, it sounds like learning to warp back-to-front may be helpful to avoid issues in the future.  I was able to resolve my twill sampler issues enough to finish the sample, although I'm not sure if I will make it through weaving off the entire warp.  I have a feeling things may worsen as I get toward the end!  

That being said, my goals for this next project are to 1) Do more involved and intentional sett sampling and 2) learn to warp back-to-front (any tips appreciated-- I will have to build myself a raddle).

My current question lies in which twill structures are most appropriate for sett sampling.  The easiest to do would be a straight twill, since I want to do half of each sample in plain weave and then the second half in pattern.  I had so much fun with my twill sampler hat I would love to do this with something more complicated, like a 6-point twill.  Would this threading work alright if I were to use it in a series of sett samples?  Or would just going straight twill be better?  These are for a specific exercise in sett variation, and part of the goal is to have the warp/weft ratio of each sample vary.  

Looking forward to this new project!

Thank you :)

Comments

danteen (not verified)

I've done sett samples for a particular yarn, just in a straight twill threading, but if you wanted to divide your project into halves you could do the point twill on one side and the straight on the other.  Leave enough width for each to really feel what the fabric is like.   I like to have something about 6 inches wide for each sample.

 Or if you wish you could divide into thirds with borders of straight twill and a center of point twill.  That one might need to be wider still, but when you were done sampling you could weave something pretty that might serve as a table runner, or scarf, etc.

 

woolybat

Thank you both!  It's funny, because earlier when I googled warping back to front, Peggy's site and books were the first things that came up.  All of her resources look fantastic.  Which book the one that helped you specifically?  I would invest in any of them.  

Danteen, I love both of those ideas!!  My loom is not very large (15 3/4" Dorothy Leclerc) but I have yet to weave something that spans the width of the reed.  Maybe this would be a good chance to do so?

 

Erica J

I'd say books 1 and 2 have the best information for warping back to front, but yes I would recommend all her books over the course of your weaving career! :)

woolybat

I'd love to purchas either of these books!  At the moment I only have my tabel loom, so I just want to make sure the information will translate. Does she discuss warping table looms?  Or if not specifically, will the information make clear sense for a table loom? 

woolybat

I just completed a draft to get my mind around how I'll go about doing this.  If anyone would like to check it out and provide feedback, that would be great!  It's in my drafts and is called "for sett samples."  Here is what I am thinking:

Reed - 12 Dents, 15 ¾” long - 12X15.75=189 (using 180 ends with single sley to leave some space at edges)

180 ends 6/2 cotton

60 green, 120 natural

Recommended sett for 6/2: 18-20 for plain weave, 20-24 for twill

Samples:

#1: 12 EPI - sley = 1 - Much looser than recommended

#2: 18 EPI - sley = 1-2 - Low end of for plain weave, looser for twill

#3: 20 EPI - sley = 1-2-2 - high end for plain weave, low end for twill

#4: 24 EPI - sley = 2 - Tighter than recommended for plain weave, high end for twill

#5: 28 EPI - sley = 2-2-3 - Much higher sett for both

 

danteen (not verified)

This plan looks good to me.    I've just done a run with 5/2 cotton yarn and used basically those same setts, re-sleying between each sample.  And beating differently on each,  lightly on the low end and more firmly the higher the sett.  Was trying to get a balance between the warp and weft, if I could.  It is an education how different each fabric feels with just the same yarns at different spacings.

 

Erica J

I have not yet done sett samples myself, but should do so. I would think that it would be easiest to resley if you start at the tightest sett and then progressively move to the widest sett. I hope that helps, but I am probably stating the obvious! :)