How can I determine the maximum length of warp that can be wound on a warp beam?  I know how to calculate the length I need for a given project but I'd like to put longer warps on so I can do more than 1 project and some sampling.  I've searched for an answer to my question but can only find information on calculating the length of a warp.   

Comments

Sun, 03/06/2016 - 17:00

Erica J

Joyce,

That is not a dumb question. I have no idea how to do this other than see if the loom manufacturer specifies for your loom, or trial and error! What loom do you have, maybe someone here already knows! :)

Sun, 03/06/2016 - 17:12

Queezle

I have actually been thinking about this lately in regards to my own loom.  I think that the limitation will be the maximum space for the warp beam (maxiumum radius).  Because you can wind on either fine yarns or chunky yarns, and separate the layers of warp either with thin (e.g. heavy paper) or thick materials (e.g. slats of wood), the actual warp length that can be accomodated will vary by quite a bit.

Last night I put on what is a rather long warp for me.  It used up almost all of my (ancient) corregated cardboard separator, but inspection of the warp beam showed quite a bit of additional room.  So for me, I am guessing that I can try at least double that length in the future.  Also relevant is that as the radius extends out, the circular path becomes longer.  Does this make sense?

Sun, 03/06/2016 - 17:35

Joanne Hall

Queezle explained some of the variables.  But another is the skill of the one who is doing the warping.  More skilled warpers can wind a more even warp (a large reel is helpful), can beam without problems, can beam tightly which means you can wind on more length and can use thin warp sticks appropriately.  In my warping book I have information about selvage papers which are used for long warps.  You can also read about them in the Ulla Cyrus book, Manual of Swedish Handweaving.  This is a way to make sure that you don't have selvage problems.

One time I wanted to put 20 yards of 8/2 cotton on a table loom for teaching classes.  I was able to do it and the warp wove perfectly, but I had to make some changes to the loom to provide more space. 

Joanne

Sun, 03/06/2016 - 17:59

Sara von Tresckow

Do bear in m ind that when putting a very long warp on a loom, the resulting fabric may need to be cut off several times during the weaving process. The fabric will be thicker than the warp on the beam, so plan the project such that there will be "stopping places" to cut off and begin again. There are several methods to take care of the resulting gap.

Sun, 03/06/2016 - 18:19

Erica J

Well put Queezle. I had been thinking 5 yards was probably the limit of my Le Clerc Voyageur, but in trying to answer the same question for it, I found a photo on the LeClerc website of a 21 yard warp of very fine threads and thin paper packing. 

I tend to use sushi mats for this one, because I've been pushing the limits of the width on this loom and the sushi mats have nice stiff edges.

Sun, 03/06/2016 - 21:31

Joyce (not verified)

and a Fireside loom.  The longest warp I've wound is 3 1/2 yds which is what I just put on the Fireside. I use warp sticks for the Dorothy because that what came with it and I'm still trying to find what works best with the Fireside.  Sarah, the cloth would have to be cut off at regular intervals with a longer warp because the cloth beam doesn't have as large a circumference as the warp beam, correct?  I haven't been weaving very long and each time I put a new warp on either loom, it begs more questions to be answered.  Between reading and watching videos, I've been mostly successful at correcting problems encountered with previous warps.  Queezle, I'm not picturing how you could tell you could put more warp on the beam.  Could you share a photo?  

Mon, 03/07/2016 - 06:49

Gone

I did 17 yards on an Artisat a couple times and it wanted to tip over backwards. I guess that was all it could handle. Of course, I used bamboo blinds for filler which added considerable weight. Maybe with paper I could have gone to 20.

Mon, 03/07/2016 - 12:58

woolybat

I also have a Leclerc Dorothy, and the longest warp I've put on is the one I'm currently weaving off, which is 3 yards of 8/2 cotton.  It seemed like a lot more would be able to go on.  I'm also a brand new weaver and this is only the 3rd warp I've done.  I'm very interested in your question, as I have been doing lots of sampling to build my basic skills, and it would be nice to have a lot of length to work through!  

Mon, 03/07/2016 - 13:05

LynneAdair

Before i post the very dumb and embarrassing question, here is something nice!  I stumbled upon a youtube video entitled "Oppsett av vev" from Oslo.  I'm not sure if posting a link is permitted here, and will understand if the webmaster deletes, but here it is:  <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F47g5kbmxIk>  Even without language comprehension, after purchasing Becky Ashenden's "Dress your loom the Swedish way" even a limited experience person such as i am (*especially* with countermarch) can follow and understand.  The loom is gorgeous with a capital G.  Is it an Oxaback?  I wonder if anyone can determine from the video the size?  It is horizontal countermarch and the Oxaback's i've seen (remember, pretty much a beginner with countermarch and big, fancy floor looms!) are vertical countermarch.  Would love to know!  Ok, now the absolutely dumb, stupid, idiotic question:  i was a bit too "thorough" cutting the Texsolv heddles apart and cut a few heddles. . .is there a way to fix them, i.e. tie them back together at one end?  Or are they toast? 

Mon, 03/07/2016 - 14:18

Sara von Tresckow

I answered the loom question on the other thread - your cut heddles are toast.

Mon, 03/07/2016 - 16:44

LynneAdair

Thank you for confirming my thoughts.  Upset with myself, but if there is a bright side, at least there are only two.  :(

Mon, 03/07/2016 - 16:47

LynneAdair

Thank you for confirming my thoughts.  Upset with myself, but if there is a bright side, at least there are only two.  :(

Mon, 03/07/2016 - 18:09

Erica J

Lynne,

Links are absolutely fine as long as they are weaving related adn not spam, or attempting to advertise for free, which you're not.

I'm not sure exactly what manufacturer that loom is from, though it has all the halmarks of a classic Scandinavian loom. The spoke style handles, overhanging beater, and lovely styling are shared by most Scandinavian loom makers, such as Glimakra. I love my Glimakras and I'm sure Oxback is of similar quality.

Happy weaving,

Erica 

Mon, 03/07/2016 - 19:34

LynneAdair

Thank you for letting me know the policy re posting links!  I love Glimakra looms too and once i get Julia up and weaving, i'll be in seventh heaven.  And dreaming of maybe a larger Glimakra loom...nice warm blankets would be fun to weave, and curtains, maybe with an overshot trim.  First things first though; weaving the kitchen towels warped on Julia!

 

 

Tue, 03/08/2016 - 00:14

Chillybuttes

I just put 5 yards on my Fireside vertical loom for a set of bath rugs, so the warp is thick wool. My walking loom takes 20+ easy.  r

Sat, 04/30/2016 - 23:36

artemiskirby@y…

to clean a brand new reed for my floor loom. I read somewhere that I am supposed to Naptha however I have no idea where I am supposed to get that. I have not used my floor loom yet as this is the only reed I currently have and it has some kind of film/lubricant on it.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Sun, 05/01/2016 - 06:54

Nassajah (not verified)

I use navel jelly and a stiff whire brush that can get between the dents.  Navel jelly is quick, it's just brushed on and left to sit about 15 minutes, then rinsed off.  Once the reed is dry, I brush it, then if all the rust doesn't come off, I reapply navel jelly and repeat the process.  To replace the paper top that often comes off due to age, I use duct tape.  I just run a piece along the edge of the reed where the paper was and it's good to go.

Sun, 05/01/2016 - 06:59

Nassajah (not verified)

 don't exist in weaving, especially amongst weavers.  A question is a search for knowledge and information which we all are trying to attain.  We're here to help each other grow as weavers, so I'm always pleaed to read a question because it may have been I have had, but hadn't asked.

Sun, 05/01/2016 - 08:32

artemiskirby@y…

for brand new reeds of which this one is? It has no rust on the dents just a light oily film. Or can I just wipe down the reed before sleying?

Thanks so much for answering my questions. It certainly is wonderful that everyone on this website is so willing to share tips, information, and knowledge! It is taking the intimidation factor out of learning to weave.

I am getting much more comfortable with my rigid heddle loom as I just started my 4th piece on it, but am still intimidated to start using my floor loom. I look at it and don't know where to begin. I know I will get the courage soon, I am just feeling slightly overwhelmed by it all.

Sun, 05/01/2016 - 11:59

Lunargent

I'm guessing that that's fairly old advice. I wouldn't use naphtha - it's kinda nasty stuff. Did the reed come with any instructions about what the film is, or how to remove it? I'd try contacting the seller.

Failing that, I'm thinking maybe it's a light coat of machone oil, to prevent rust. I'd try wiping off as much as possible with a clean, dry cloth. Then wipe again, with a cloth moistened with rubbing alcohol. And to be really sure, run some cotton waste yarn through the slots.

Sun, 05/01/2016 - 19:18

artemiskirby@y…

I purchased the loom used from the daughter of a weaver who has since passed. The daughter sold me everything, reeds, spool winder, extra spools, boat shuttles, the loom itself, the bench, extra yarn and all kinds of books on weaving Navajo rugs. It is a Leclerc 36" Artisat and the only reed that wasn't rusted was a brand new one still wrapped in paper. The others are pretty well rusted. It was an incredible deal. I just had to rent a trailer and drive to SoCal to pick it up.

I will clean it as you recommended and we shall see what happens. Thanks!