Hi there! I'm trying to weave a fabric that is 60 epi, preferably in cotton. I'm having trouble figuring out the yarn to order. The only yarn I see is 60/2 silk or 30/2 cotton. How do I figure out what size to get? Thanks!

Comments

Wed, 01/14/2015 - 17:34

Sara von Tresckow

60 epi is one measurement for fabric. Structure is also important in the relationship between yarn and sett. Plain weave wants about 50% of the wraps per inch when you test the yarn - so you'd need 120 wraps on a ruler with a particular yarn to weave at 60 epi. (it could also vary between 110 and 130 wraps and still work well at 60 epi).

For twill, you generally figure about 66% of the wraps per inch. Divide the 60 by 2 and multiply by 3 and you have a guestimate of around 90 wraps per inch. (Again, between 80 and 100 wraps would more than likely work well for you at 60 epi). If this is a 3/1 twill, the wraps per inch could increase to 110 because the floats are longer.

A satin weave demands that the warp threads be very close and dense - so 70-80 wraps per inch would do just fine. When I work on a drawloom, using 5-end satin, I use 20/2 cotton at 60 epi. That same yarn works very well at just over 40 in a twill and between 30 and 40 in a plain weave. 

Wraps per inch is when you take a piece of the intended yarn and wrap it around a measuring stick, wraps close and touching, for an inch. Count the wraps and use them in the above formulas.

Also know that if you guestimate too firm or too loose with your fabric, you can resley it in a different density and with just a little difference in width, get an entirely different hand to your cloth.

Thu, 01/15/2015 - 00:14

sandra.eberhar…

What are you making?  EPI is usually something you arrive at based on your choice of yarn and weave.  To start there is odd....  Even when trying to duplicate a particular fabric, you usually start with the yarn.