I have been putting together some sectional dividers for my loom warp roller. Currently, I have applied one coat of linseed/turpentine mixture and will apply one more later. These sections are 61-3/4" long and a tie-on dowel rod is 60" long, 3/4" diameter. The dowel rod will seat into clothesline hooks that are ?-shaped. It will be set up so that the rod will hold the loop cord from the roller until the end at which point the rod will be pulled free of the hooks to weave the last 2 yards of warp up to the heddles.

The sections are SS rod bent on a forming block to a U shape by hand and inserted into spaced holes made by a drill press so depth is consistant and straight. Holes are drilled in the beams to attach to the roller. My roller is octagon shaped so the pieces will fit to a flat surface. The U rods are spaced so that 1" of space is between the U's, within a 1/32" and seated 1/2" into the wood.

 

 

A close-up of some of that ray figure. :)

 

 

Have a good one.

Comments

Tue, 02/05/2013 - 20:29

Dawn McCarthy

Nice job!  How tall are the dividers?

Dawn

 

Tue, 02/05/2013 - 21:33

ReedGuy

Dawn, the U's are 3-1/4" tall above the wood and the wooden beams are 2-1/2" tall. On my roller this gives me a yard per revolution.

Also, I cut my own dowel rod on my Veritas dowel cutter with kilned hard maple. Smooth as glass. :)

 

Thu, 02/07/2013 - 17:02

crofter

hi

please could i see a picture of your tension box as i am going to start making one soon

thanks

crofter

Fri, 02/08/2013 - 19:40

kerstinfroberg

I'm confused about the dowel rod. Do you mean the dowel rod is held by [strings], with the sectional strings/attachment cords (that hold the warp sections) attached to the dowel rod? If not - how?

(On my sectional I have one attachment cord per section, long enough to reach the heddles. I did it that way because of advice from long-time sectional warpers. It works like a charm... like http://oddweavings.blogspot.se/2010/08/loom-waste.html. That way it is not quite as important that the sectional attachment cords are *exactly* the same lenght)

Fri, 02/08/2013 - 22:17

ReedGuy

The dowel rod is held by 5 SS hooks when winding on and while weaving up to the last yard. The last yard of the warp will be with the dowel held by cord of equal length attached at 5 points coming from the warp roller.

I'm in the process now of winding my yardage onto 24 spools, as that is my sett on this project. I am using a counter to measure the yarn onto them. I'm finding the yardage is coming out very accurately so far if the yardage on the packaging is anywhere near thruth. I get 6 spools wound per cone, with 10 yards left over. A little less, since I add 5 or 6 inches. But no big deal because what is one to do with the extra yards except use as weft, and not many shots in 10 yards of 10/2 weft, even if it's a narrow piece. I think the cord per section is a Leclerc idea, maybe not, but it's in their book. I don't like that method. :)

Sat, 02/09/2013 - 10:47

kerstinfroberg

ReedGuy, could we please have a picture of how you attach your secion(s) to the dowel when winding on? I can't picture how you get section 2 (and the rest) attached, if the dowel is already "wound in" by the first section?

Sat, 02/09/2013 - 11:11

ReedGuy

The dowel is seated in the hooks when winding each section and the cord is not wound around the sectionals. I don't want any cords wound onto them creating uneveness. I will have pictures soon. :)

Mon, 02/11/2013 - 11:12

ReedGuy

Some pictures of my sectional winding.

This first pic is a frame of video, so it's not crisp. My sett is 24 epi, so I use 24 threads obviously. I tie on in bunches of 6, and I use a string to make a cross over every 6 threads. I use 6 because later when I thread the heddles, 11 reps of 6 ends will complete each pattern repeat. I tie onto the dowel in the same matter you would on the cloth roller tie-on bar. When you begin winding the ends flatten out even. I make sure the knot is behind the dowel so there is no bump created by turning it around the dowel.

Final result. You can see the cords taped to the beam that will secure the dowel on the last yard. They are secured to the beam through the same holes I use when using a continuous cord. There are 5 cords of equal length.

Mon, 02/11/2013 - 17:08

kerstinfroberg

I had trouble understanding how you proposed to attach to a dowel that lay more or less flat on the beam - now I see the gap.