I have been given one of those inkle looms that has the tension control as a slot and dowel tightener around the base of the frame.  See picture below for a better explanation.   I thought I had the path that would allow me to move the warp forward, but because I am wrapping around the tension dowel both forward and backwards, the warp does not move any farther than the dowel moves.  I do not really have a circular warp.  What am I not thinking about here? 

Comments

sarahnopp (not verified)

It is a Beka inkle I believe. I have had the same issue, or question, so I have just ignored the left most peg.

sarahnopp (not verified)

Also, does this Palmer mini-inkle warp path make sense? Now you have me digging for more information :)

http://www.palmerlooms.com/palmerlooms7.html

Weavingholiday

Have you had a look at the picture here:

http://www.bekainc.com/buy/m6-07002/inkle-loom/

I expect you could skip the right/left "zigs and zags" on the upper right part of the loom if you need a shorter warp, but need the loop around the tenshioning peg to the left?

Hope this helps? Inkle looms can be hard to photograph so all the pegs appear to be exactly where they really are.

Weavingholiday

Have you had a look at the picture here:

http://www.bekainc.com/buy/m6-07002/inkle-loom/

I expect you could skip the right/left "zigs and zags" on the upper right part of the loom if you need a shorter warp, but need the loop around the tenshioning peg to the left?

Hope this helps? Inkle looms can be hard to photograph so all the pegs appear to be exactly where they really are.

phiber phanatic

Looks just like my Schact loom, and there doesn't seem to be a reason for the warp not to be able to move. Just make sure there are no threads wrapped completely around the tension dowel. Loosen the tention, and either use a shuttle in the shed or two hands on the warp to pull it towards you.

Hope this helps. Nancy

Vamptoo (not verified)

It looks like you have split the warp, top and bottom around your tension peg on the bottom. You can't pull the warp forward because the woven area is not going to split around that peg.

sally orgren

Ah yes, I have seen this warp path before. (You are not alone!)

If you follow the outside pegs of an inkle loom like this, there is no extra warp for "take up", meaning the warp path needs to be longer than the actual project to account for all the traveling up and down over the weft threads. (Inkle is a warp-faced weave.) You need to capture at least one additional peg on the inside of the frame to accommodate your project take up.

The link that WeavingHoliday provided to the Beka loom is very good. You don't need to catch all the pegs in the middle of the loom, but you do need to match the path they are showing on the lower left and be sure to catch the adjustable peg. That peg moves, so as you weave and the warp tightens with "take up," you can move that peg and continue weaving. Otherwise, the warp tightens so much, it won't budge. (Along with the problem of splitting the warp over that peg instead of traveling around it, as Vamptoo mentioned.)

OK, so now the question is, what to do with THIS warp? (Since it looks like a lovely combo of colors and great weaving start, I'd hate to just throw it away!)

Can you bring the warp down from the upper right peg in the photo, angling it through the middle of the loom to one of the pegs along the bottom, ideally to build enough extra warp to work it around the adjustable peg?

Or, can you cut the warp near the bottom, tie it off, and add a leader or extender thread that will build this extra space in for you to make a circular path including that all important adjustable peg? (Use something very strong, like cotton or seine twine.)

Hope this helps — and you can still squeeze some fun weaving out of this pretty warp!

loomyladi (not verified)

They've covered it all - once you get it right it will be awesome.  Great Colors!

 

sally orgren

I posted this earlier, but it didn't stick. I noticed that your heddles are on the wrong peg, they should be moved one peg to the right. (See pink line). And here is a possible warp path for you, indicated by the blue line. Good luck!

ChrisWeaveMaine (not verified)

I would just slide the split warp from around the tensioning peg and off the back bottom pegs temporarily to give you enough leeway to move your heddles to the correct peg mentioned in #10 reply above, and then loop your warp as described above.  (Good call, Sally!)  When I first got my inkle, I took a picture of it with my phone so I could refer to that initial warp until I was comfortable. I'm sure after this you'll have no issues.

 

ChrisWeaveMaine (not verified)

I would just slide the split warp from around the tensioning peg and off the back bottom pegs temporarily to give you enough leeway to move your heddles to the correct peg mentioned in #10 reply above, and then loop your warp as described above.  (Good call, Sally!)  When I first got my inkle, I took a picture of it with my phone so I could refer to that initial warp until I was comfortable. I'm sure after this you'll have no issues.

 

ChrisWeaveMaine (not verified)

I would just slide the split warp from around the tensioning peg and off the back bottom pegs temporarily to give you enough leeway to move your heddles to the correct peg mentioned in #10 reply above, and then loop your warp as described above.  (Good call, Sally!)  When I first got my inkle, I took a picture of it with my phone so I could refer to that initial warp until I was comfortable. I'm sure after this you'll have no issues.

 

 

DianneStucki (not verified)

Your loom looks almost identical to my Palmer loom, and the warping path indicated for the Palmer mini loom is, in fact, what I use. They are lovely, sturdy looms.