I have a few questions about my new to me Mac loom, 4 harness/6 treadle 40'

1) why would you want to use 2 plain cloth beams on this loom? what would the purpose be?

2) My loom  was missing the crank handlefor the warp beam. Can they be  purchased? or some placethat might have a used one?

3) my warp and cloth beams have very old( some are broken) strings that have been stapled on to the cloth beam. They will need to be replaced..  What is the best thing to use? the rod on there is small in diameter, DoI need a heavier one?

4) I am very short, and have short arms.. I am concerned that reaching the beater bar might be be difficult and tireing. Can I add a handle on it? where wouldI buy one?

5)How many heddles should be on each shaft? what is a good anount to have on there?

so much to learn!

thanks carole

Comments

Tue, 10/09/2012 - 05:03

Cat Brysch

I assume you have a Macomber Loom? There is a Macomber group here on Weavolution and the head person, Michael, is very knowledgeable and will prove to be a great help to you. If you don't get much response here, search the groups list and you will find Macomber Looms there....join that group and start a new conversation.

Yes, you do have much to learn, but you have definitely come to the right place! Here's just a few thoughts on your questions:

1) Quite often Macomber are available with 2 back beams, one standard and one sectional. Two back beams most often are used for supplemental warp that need different tensions on each (as in seersucker). The combination of the style of the back beams can vary.

2) Here's the number of Macomber ~ 207-363-2808. Read them the number on the plaque on your loom, and they will be able to tell you the age of your loom and exactly what crank you need....cranks are the most commonly lost piece of Macomber because they are not attached ....also, try Ebay.

3) Macomber tie-on strings are commonly very much in need of replacement on most used ones. Originally, they are made of linen and break down badly. Michael can advise you best here or I can send you photos of some of my replacement methods...both strings and fabric aprons.

4) Macomber makes a handle for the front of the beater bar, commonly placed on the larger looms...I can send you a photo of mine or call the number for their advice, too. You can also limit your fatigue factor by limiting how wide your work is on the loom, and Macombers are a tall loom, so sit high enough to help you reach while still being able to reach the treadles.

5) The number of heddles per harness depends on the sett you plan to use. Some of my Macombers (I have 8 floor models) I have sett of 48 epi and I max out the widths of 40" wide to 58" wide. It will vary according to what you plan to weave...rugs sett at 6 epi?...very fine fabric sett at 60 epi?...you have the answer here...divide your total number of warp threads by how many harnesses you have and, voila, there's your answer.

Best of luck in your new endeavor. As you can tell, I love Macomber looms and highly recommend them! Happy Weaving, Cat B.

Tue, 10/09/2012 - 12:13

caroleg51

Cat

thanks somuch for your response,I would greatly appreciate it if you would send me pictures of your apron string methods. I will call Macomber and ask about the the handle I need and my serial number. Thanks again

carole

Iam soglad to hear you love your loom.. I am anxious to get mine up and running

Tue, 10/09/2012 - 21:57

mrdubyah (not verified)

If there's enough of the apron strings left, you can simply tie on a new length of strong linen to replace the missing sections.  Hold the apron rod in position and adjust the new strings to the right length before knotting.  If the cord broke at the staples, then you'll have to redo it.  A small diameter apron rod is sufficient depending on the type of yarn and the tension.  Try it and, if it bends much, get a stronger one. 

Wed, 10/10/2012 - 01:26

caroleg51

there are 4 that are totally missing, the others are there, but look really old.They are probably original.I will try to replace the missing ones and double check the others for strnegth,

thanks a bunch

carole

Wed, 10/10/2012 - 04:46

Cat Brysch

I would recommend changing all of them at one time with the same cord material....once they are old, it's usually just a matter of time before another one goes. I was never able to match up the new with the old very well, so, when I make the effort, I go for it! I'll take photos tomorrow and get them up.

Thu, 10/11/2012 - 00:03

mrdubyah (not verified)

you probably won't regret redoing them all over.  If you'd like to see how Macomber does it, visit: [fixed link]

http://macomberloomsandme.blogspot.com/2010/05/new-strings-attached.html

You can see how the original was made. 

Wed, 10/10/2012 - 23:22

Cat Brysch

Hey, Hey, Carole, I'm going to try to get 2 photos in here...or maybe one at a time....

Wed, 10/10/2012 - 23:39

Cat Brysch

The 2 photos above show the whole system completely....what luck that I did not weave more on this blanket today! The cord is nylon with hardly any stretch. Each cord is first measured EXACTLY to the same length as each other cord.... take your time and do this... it's worth the effort. Then tie an over-hand knot in the end of each cord/loop to fasten the 2 loose ends together and tighten it EXACTLY like each other cord...don't start the job one time and finish another...reserve an hour or so and do it all at one time to get consistancy in the length and the strength of the ties. Then, the wood screws are actually pretty small, used in PRE-DRILLED holes. The head of the screw entraps the cord...pull on the cord side-ways to get the cord under the head as you are tightening down the screw. The tie-on bar is then entrapped in the resulting loop with a larkshead knot, placing one knot on at a time while sliding the tie-on bar across the way. I like to have plenty of 'play' in my tie-on bar and therefore make the new cords long enough that, when all is tied up properly, the tie-on bar reaches to the shuttle race while the other end of the cord is pulling the stress side-ways on the screw and not pulling directly out from the beam!

Wed, 10/10/2012 - 23:52

caroleg51

holy Moley! What size loom is that, Did it come with roller skates.. That is huge!

Thanks for the pictures, I have saved them and your directions. What kind of Nylon cord? and where can I buy it?

thanks so much for  posting the pictures and your help. Changing them all at the same times makes good sense..

thanks carole

Thu, 10/11/2012 - 00:11

caroleg51

thanks, I will go look at it

carole

Fri, 10/12/2012 - 04:41

Cat Brysch

She's my biggest Macomber at a weaving width of 60 inches. She's quite a workout...like doing a stairmaster for 8 hours, if I am filling an order.  But I love her! The nylon doesn't have a label anymore, but look in the home improvement stores for nylon that doesn't have stretch...it can take some looking (and feeling) but is worth the search. Sears used to be a great place for finding wonderful twines and cords, but I don't know if they still offer them. Best of wishes, write if you need something!

Fri, 10/12/2012 - 14:23

Michael White

I use a piece of 1/2" tubular steel it is light weigh and stronger then a rod and will not bend. You can configuer your Macomber with any number of beam combinations. Yes, you can purchase a new handle for, if I remember right for $60, or you could make one or use a vise grip pliers. Since you have plain beams you could replace the strings with a cloth apron. See picture below. Again you can purchase a handle from Macomber or have someone make you one using wooden blocks and a wooden dowel. Heddles, on our looms we have all types of heedles mixed together flat, wire and repair. The number: as some one told you figure out how many you need for your current project and start there. You can always add more. I would have a few repair heddles, these heddles slip on to the heddle bars were needed without having to open the heddle bar clips.

 

Michael

Fri, 10/12/2012 - 14:34

caroleg51

Michael

I guess I will use some vice grips until I can get a handle.. My question about amount of heddles was , I was wondering if there was an average amount of heddles that usually are on a loom,I know you would need different amounts for different projects,but was just curious of there was a reccommended amount of heddles to have on a loom.I did not know about repair heddles, It sounds like a good idea to have some on hand to put on in case you dont have enough.

Thanks Michael for your input

carole

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 02:29

Dena (not verified)

Oh My Cat!  The photo of your apron strings is fabulous.  I have one that I need to redo and I've been dreading it and I know it will never be as beautiful as yours, but I am inspired!
Sat, 10/13/2012 - 04:40

Cat Brysch

It's really not difficult, just a little time consuming....but, in less than 2 hours, I can have an average loom completely done...GO FOR IT!

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 04:43

Cat Brysch

I cannot figure out how to answer your private question elsewhere, so I am answering here. The view of the heddles is only an illusion. The upper and lower "eyes" (or slots) of the heddles are sideways so they can slide along the harness bars from one side of the loom to the other, but the middle eyes are straight front to back.

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 13:06

Michael White

Per the Macomber price list"... 20 heddles per weaving inch...."  Meaning on your 40 inch loom you would have 800 heddles.

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 13:08

Michael White

FYI Macomber sells a string replacement kit.

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 13:11

Michael White

are just that. If you make a mistake and need to add a heddles in the middle of a warp is where you would use one. These are not use as a heddle replacement.

Michael

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 13:39

caroleg51

Michael

thanks, I think it might be a good idea to have a few n hand. not that I would ever make a mistake! LOL thanks for the information. I am learning so much from this group

carole

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 13:42

caroleg51

Michael

ok,thats the ono I was looking for, I assume,thats divided between the 4 shafts..

carole

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 14:41

Penn (not verified)

This is the way someone modified a Leclerc crank to make it fit a Macomber.  Pieces of copper bent into "L" shapes, rammed into the socket, very secure.  Works well.  Provided not as a recommendation over buying a fresh new Macomber crank, but just to show how it was done.

Also, while I am sure real repair heddles are better, I made my own out of necessity, and they work fine.  Using airplane shears (glorified tin snips), I make a cut in the top and bottom slots of a heddle, where it fits onto the heddle bars. Then I manipulate it onto the heddle bars and press the metal of the heddle back into place.  I haven't had problems with the cut part catching on anything, but I haven't woven super-fine threadings with these heddles in place.  I use inserted-eye heddles, if that makes any difference.

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 16:17

caroleg51

thanks, i saved these directions for hubby,maybe he can come up with something.I also made not of the heddle instructions

thanks carole

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 19:38

caroleg51

Cat.. I understand that the heddle eyes run through the harness bars sideways,but these heddle eyes truly face sideways. so when it is warped, the yarn will come out of the side of the heddle, not frin to back.here are some pictures,one with a purple yarn in heddle other taken from the side of the loom, looking straight at  the heddle eyes, should they be like this?

thanks carole

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 20:22

mneligh

I have heddles like that on my Mac, and except for severely twisted ones, there actually is a straignt front to back route on them.  The trick is that if they are not all on the heddle bar the same way, some will have a righthand twist and some a lefthand twist.  If you put them flat on a table you will see that the eye is not flat. 

Using the purple yarn on the picture, take the end away from the camera and move it to the right and the end towards the camera and move it to the left.  Can the thread travel in a straight path through it?  If not, reverse this.  One of the those arrangements should allow the warp to pass straight through.

Sun, 10/14/2012 - 15:58

caroleg51

Yes, if I take the yarn comingout of therightside of the heddle, pull it closest to the camera,and take the back of the yarn and pull it to the back of the camera, the yarn goes in a straight northto south line. if I twist it the other way, the yarn wraps around the heddle, so I guess, when it is all warped, the eyeswill face front to back then?

thanks carole

Thu, 10/18/2012 - 22:39

mneligh

Yep -- they sure will.  If you move heddles around each time you dress the loom, they will face every which way unless you take are to prevent it or rearrange them.  If that happens, you have to take more care in threading to make sure they are twisted in the correct way.

The good side about these heddles is that you can get a lot of them in a given space -- more than inserted eye.  The bad news, besides the twist, is that they seem harder on warps than other heddles.

Trade offs . . .

Fri, 10/19/2012 - 12:36

caroleg51

are you saying they can change position on the shaft by them selves?

carole

Fri, 10/19/2012 - 15:40

weaver-dyer (not verified)

The heddles can't change direction on a shaft by themselves.  If the heddle eyes face different directions before threading carefully take the heddles of the shaft bars.  Line them up so that all are facing the same direction and put them back on the heddle bars.  It is time consuming, but once it's done, it's done!  I prefer to have my heddles arranged so that the thread goes from "right" to "left" through the eye and in reality the thread is straight from back to front.  Hope that this doesn't add to the confusion.

Fri, 10/19/2012 - 17:28

caroleg51

OK, since I just got the loom,I better check all the heddles before I weave the first project..

thank you

carole

Fri, 10/19/2012 - 17:49

tommye scanlin

... it's helpful to run something through the top of the heddle where it is slipped onto the shaft--with Macomber, it's a thin metal bar that the heddles slide upon. I usually use a long tapestry needle and a STRONG thread, like a seine twine, and slide it through the tops of the heddles I'm removing, and also the bottoms of the heddles, and tie both ends of the twine together at both ends of the heddle (not together with each other). This way the heddles are held in the same arrangement as they are when on the loom and are easier to reinstall later. Now, that being said, I try very hard NOT TO HAVE TO TAKE HEDDLES OFF!!! I space empty heddles between threaded heddles whenever I can if a piece is wide enough and the warp sett sparse enough that there would be crowding of the edges of the warp by unused heddles at the sides. I taught for many years in a university weaving program and there were invariably looms from which heddles had been removed and dumped to the side by students who found they had more heddles on the looms than they needed -- EVEN when I would repeat instructions to NOT TAKE OFF HEDDLES FROM LOOMS! : / Students have access to the weaving studio at times the instructor isn't there (working at nights and weekends) and that was always when the mysterious heddle removal would happen. What comes around goes around, though, and almost always students would have to reinstall heddles for another project when they needed more in place. However, the "simple" solution of removing heddles seemed to be one that I just couldn't break. The advice about putting on the heddles so that the eyes face the right direction is excellent, by the way. Good luck with the Macomber!
Fri, 10/19/2012 - 17:54

Dena (not verified)

I had a student recommend using strapping from boxes  to slide heddles on and off.  It's the perfect size and you can get it onto the heddles while they're still on the heddle bars.
Fri, 10/19/2012 - 23:24

mneligh

I own some heddle transfer bars.  They are slightly narrower than the heddle bars, and very thin steel.  Their use is intuitive.  Unfortunately, since I've owned them since the late 1970's I can't recall where I got them.

I do recommend making the eyes of the heddles all face the same way -- it saves woe at threading time.  On the other hand, mine came from the factory so that one is upside down and reversed from the one next to it.  The eyes all face the same way, but if you look at the top of the heddle where they go around the bar they alternate flat, bump, flat, bump.  I don't know if that matters.

I never move heddles around on my Baby Wolf, but I frequently do on my Macomber because it's so easy.  Sometimes I use all 20 shafts, sometimes just 3.  When I'm using just 3 I move as many heddles as I need to the front 3 shafts.  At other times I want them distributed evenly across the shafts.  Each shaft adds weight, and if using 8 or fewer shafts it's no big deal, but beyond that, it becomes difficult to tromp a treadle on one side of the loom while throwing the shuttle the full width of the loom. 

When designing threadings, I try to design so that the most heddles are on the front shafts (longer lever on the treadles) while maintaining my "no brain" treadling order (1, 2, 3, 4, 5 . . .).

I'm not as young as I used to be in terms of the tromp and stretch, but for tromping I do weigh more!