I am wanting to do a checked baby blanket double width on my 25" Flip. I have a pretty good idea of how I think the two heddles need to be warped in order to acheive the checkered effect I want but decided I would put a question on here to see if I can get any tips! I haven't been able to find a patten anywhere yet. Tonight I am going to narrow / short warp of how i think it needs to be done and do a sample but. . . Any help will be appreciated.

Comments

Joanne Hall

What you need to consider is that when you double up your warp, it is twice as thick.  If you have a small warp beam, you will need to beam the warp very tightly, as it will be winding on that small beam and building up twice as fast as with a single layer warp.  It will be hard to determine if you can get it all on the beam.  And it will build up on the cloth beam as well.   I suggest that you use a fine yarn rather than a thick one to reduce the bulk.  The double width warps also like to spread out on the beam, so do not plan to weave the full width of the loom.

I know that you weave on rigid heddle looms, but for this project you might consider borrowing a loom with a larger warp beam.  A four shaft loom will give you more space for the bulk of your project.

I developed a double weave kit with a fine wool yarn, 24 inches wide and it can get very bulky on the warp beam and on the cloth beam.  I have woven it on the Julia loom as well as larger looms.  I decided that it was even too bulky for most table looms, as there is not enough space for it to wind onto the cloth beam.

Joanne

endorph

I should be okay on the amount of warp and resulting cloth on both beams. My teachers do a double width throw on the flip with their homeschoolers so I know the loom can handle it. They teach the class for the rest of us too but its not on the calendar until next November and I don't want to wait that long! But thanks for the tips - I definitely want to use a finer yarn - in Texas we don't really need a heavy blanket most times of the year. I was planning on going about 18 - 20 inches wide at the max to end up with something around 34 - 36 inches wide after finishing. My main concern is figuring out the warp sequence with the different colors so I get the checks on both layers looking sort of the same! I have been looking at the Julia as a possible next loom - I am taking my first floor loom calss on Jan 7 - I am very excited about that! Again, thanks for some great tips and things to look out for. Hopefully they will help me avoid some pitfalls Tina

endorph

and the way I thought I should warp the loom to get checks worked so now on to doing the full sized throw - Any suggestions, tios, hints on keeping the folded edge looking decent and normal once it is off the loom and wet finished. I know wet finishing will help to hide some boo boos but I would like to get it fairly decnet before that step :)

Marti (not verified)

but when I do that, I thread a fishing line one dent over from the fold (which I always, for some reason, put on the left) like a floating selvedge.  I run the weft around it -- this helps make sure that the fold doesn't end up with draw-in causing the area around the fold to be much more tightly woven than the rest. I'm not sure how you'd do this on a rigid heddle -- but I vaguely remember seeing something about floating selvedges on rigid heddle looms somewhere.  Unfortunately, although I weave a fair amount on rigid heddles, I've never done a floating selvedge on one.

Wish I could be more helpful!

endorph

for the suggestion - I still have enough of my sample warp on the loom I might play around with the fishing line idea. I read somewhere about too about running a couple of extra warp threads on the fold side that then would be removed once weaving was done - - hmmm - I am thingking a couple more short smaples might be in order. . . .

Marti (not verified)

is exactly what you mention -- that it can be removed easily (I forgot to explain that).

Joanne Hall

I always use a temple.  Then your fold and your selvages will come out just right, without making any changes to your warp.  The temple will also help you to keep the beat even on the lower layer where you cannot see it.

Joanne

Marti (not verified)

I can't stand using them. For some reason, I find they interfere with my enjoyment of weaving. Don't know why and really wish I didn't feel that way because my weaving would be much improved.

endorph

I will keep that in mind as well.  I don't own a temple - yet! That will definitely end up on my wish list. I am learning the importance of sampling on this project - luckily I do not have a deadline to meet and can take my time and work out the bugs in advance.

Joanne Hall

The temple increases my enjoyment of weaving as it eliminates most any problem during weaving. 

I never have to fuss with selvages and I never have to take extra weft out of the shuttle to prevent draw-in.   I never have to weight my selvage warp threads.  I don't get broken ends.  I don't have to double selvages.  I don't use a floating selvage to improve the look of the selvage. 

The weaving goes much faster, since I don't have to deal with any of those things. I just weave.

And if the sharp points bother you, hardware stores sell a foam tubing that you can put on the pins as you are weaving, so you don't have to worry about touching them.

Joanne

endorph

projects I got around to doing a sample for my throw - and just to practice - using some yarn from my stash. Ti was a little sticky for warp but it worked okay. I really like the colors so think I will try to find something else to use for the warp and will use the rest of this yarn for wft on another project. Anyway, I found by being careful in leaving a decent enough arc on my yarn and not fiddling with the selvedeges I got a good selvedge edge a pretty good fold line without any big loops or too tight threads and little to no draw in. So now I am waiting for my yarn to get here and will start on a throw for myself as parctice and then I will tackle to baby blanket!