This pattern had some specific criteria since it is to be woven by volunteers over the course of several summers at Hill House, Millbrook Village, Delaware Water Gap National Recreational Area between Pennsylvania and New Jersey.
Hopefully, the loom will be dressed and weaving by the first weekend in October — which is the annual Millbrook Days.
> 4 shafts, and not wider than 22" (home-built loom with quirky operation)
> No budget for yarn, draw from the stash or donated yarns (cheap materials)
> Easy to weave, one shuttle, any volunteer can pick up the pattern
> Historic pattern if possible
> Pleasing colors/pattern so visitors will be engaged, along with the volunteers
About Dimity: What many folks don't realize is that it is the compression of the twill stripe (compressed in the sett) that makes these areas rise up and give Dimity its distinctive look. In this draft, I will be varying the sett between color stripes (because the natural 8/2 would require a sett of 20 dent and the blue 10/2 would be 24), and also varying the sett of the twill stripe within each stripe. In the draft, it looks like one stripe is wider than the other, and technically, the 10/2 blue has a few more threads than the 8/2 white areas. But I am hoping in the sley order I designed, that will even out.
I wish I had a variety of reeds to choose from, but in this historic venue, I must use an 8 dent reed that came with the loom. So figuring out the sley order was a bit complicated. Here's my plan so far:
| 3 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 7 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 3 | = 8/2 white stripes with 10/2 blue twill line
| 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 5 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | = 10/2 blue stripes with 8/2 white twill line
Fingers crossed! I am hoping theory and the real-world are compatible in this case.
I started winding the warp last Sunday and I wasn't happy with the way the thinner blue (10/2 pearl cotton) stripe looked against the 8/2 natural homestead. So I bit the bullet and ordered the 8/2 Colonial Blue from Webs during their August sale. I think this is going to prove to be a better plan, but NOW I have to go back and adjust the draft, plus redo my warp calculations! (And remove about 3" of warp from the warping board.) Three steps forward, one back...
I went out to the NPS on Sept 30th to pick up the loom for dressing at home. I dressed the loom over the weekend. 6 yards and it went quick! I ended up sleying this way:
| 3 | 3 | 3 | 1W+1B | 5 | 1B+1W | 3 | 3 | 3 | = 8/2 white stripes with 8/2 blue twill line
| 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 5 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | = 8/2 blue stripes with 8/2 white twill line
The treadling is easy (2+4, 1+2+3, 2+3+4, 1+3, repeat). This produces a raised twill pattern in the thin stripes centered in the wider color stripes. It can also be woven plain weave if a volunteer thinks that treadling is too complicated.
Unfortunately, with the gov't shutdown in progress, the event I was preparing this warp for has been cancelled. When the gov't reboots, I'll need to work out an arrangement to return the loom to the NPS site.
FYI, this appears to be an unsual loom. Here is the maker's mark I found when lifting all the shafts for ease in threading. Has anyone ever heard of these looms? Are there any siblings to this loom out there? (Bloomsubrg, PA is the location listed, "Mcauley Mountain Loom Works".
80" warp on a John Mullarkey Tablet Loom produced a 62" long band.
John Mullarkey "Ivy" pattern, 22 tablets. "Threaded in" pattern.
Finished band width was 5/8" (If you use 10/2 with the same pattern, finished band width is 3/4")
Five 30x36 blankets were woven in my own draft created with Adobe Photoshop elements using the book "The LiftPlan Connection" by Alice Schlein. The words on the blanket read: baby boy oh boy baby boy.One blanket was woven with the twill draft. It caused some draw in Instead of 30 inches with the word version they were 29 inches. Learned to not use material that I can't remember why I haven't used them. lol the single acrylic was a pain to work with. I ordered Red heart yarn for the weft as I liked the ply of shiny material with it and these needed to be easy to care for blankets. I thought I ordered fingering weft and come to find out they discontinued it and changed it to worsted weight but the resulting blankets are fine. One of these will be donated to the Linus Project, this was the winter project of my guild here in NC. This was my second project on my new to me AVL TDL compu dobby
A magical weaving with overspun weft .
Warp: Silk bourette + Mulberry ( blue), japanese silver thread
Weft : ovespun italian silk (creme) , overspun wool (bordeaux), colcolastic (black)
Flat weave crincles after wet finish in 60 degrees hot water.
More pics here: http:[email protected]/
I wanted to get a new warp on Inky for summer. Inky has traveled with this new warp to Clayton, NY, and Grove City, PA so far. This was based on an original pattern I wove a few years ago, and that I really enjoyed. I weave on more than one loom at a time, but this was the first time I realized I needed to weave a second inkle band in lime green for another project underway. I borrowed a guildmate's Inklette to weave the second band accompanying Inky in the photo. The green band went on and off that loom in the same day. Probably an hour or less to warp. Maybe 6 hours of weaving. The pattern IS pick up, but I try and plan the pick ups to work with the natural up and down of the sheds, so the effort is minimal.
To see how I plan to use the lime green inkle band, check out the Structo Bag project.
I tied onto an existing warp, so I didn't have to rethread. It took me about 5 hours to tie the new onto the old (630 warps).
When I finished the previous project, I painted a bit of glue and water on the warp, under tension. Let it dry. Cut it off, but left a few weft threads (3). This made it easier to connect the new warp to the old, as it preserved the precise color order. (The warp was sleyed 2 per dent in a 15 dent reed, so it was hard to tell just pulling from the reed which color came first in the threading order.) By pulling from that little woven bit left at the edge, this was accomplished much quicker and easier, as it was evident which thread was next. It was like a threading "valet" ;-)
I also used my Navajo loom (with a project still mounted on it!) as a "warping valet", throwing the warp and water bottles (for weight) over the top to gain additional height while beaming. This worked really well.
I planned a little extra warp, so I can sample some wefts before launching into another series of dishtowels, this time in blue.
I used two weights of wool each set differently. I also fulled it in the bathtub by walking on it in hot, soapy water for 30 minutes. Even though the wool was set firmly because of the deflected double weave structure it is very light and soft.
A loom was returned to me after 15 years with lots of loom waste, so I decided to rethread the loom with a new pattern to test the mechanics of the loom, recycling what was left hanging from the back beam. I had to re-establish the cross first, and after that, threading was easy.
I noticed the warp was a bit big for overshot "background," so I cheated the weft a bit by using a 10/2 white background, with a 5/2 blue pattern. An overshot patterns should square up, so this was the best idea I could come up with to make that happen.
I was able to complete a small table runner, and had a neighbor come over and complete a small project, also. But the best news was the loom weaves GREAT!