Sat, 06/13/2009 - 20:17

trishSA (not verified)

I've done a couple of shaped shibori scarves and been delighted with them. I have used regular polyester sewing thread for the weft and friends have used the finer polyester machine embroidery thread.  We have always been happy with our results.  

Sat, 06/13/2009 - 20:21

thimbelina (not verified)

OK, today I am definitely having a hard time with my typing.  And I think I'll be able to figure out DH weaving!! Ha!

I meant to say -- learning from everyone-- and isn't Weavolution great!

Happy Weaving!

 

Sat, 06/13/2009 - 20:24

Thumper70 (not verified)

warp it up & play - that's more or less what I did - I made a narrow band (now used as a book mark) and played with combinations of up & down to get a sense of what happens where. I think the only mistake I made was that my warp & weft were the same colour. I think the next attempt will have two or even three colours to help distinguish what's happening - and what caused it.

Sat, 06/13/2009 - 20:28

Thumper70 (not verified)

I too was intimidated by warping - but once I *got it* that warping is a part of the weaving process - it no longer felt so overwhelming. It also helped that I experimented with different warping methods, thus finding the one that is best for me and the way I work. Now - i can warp up my loom (ashford 80cm) relatively quickly.

Sat, 06/13/2009 - 20:44

JanS (not verified)

Hi Deb - All depends on what you want to happen here.  Using two threads together or singly will seriously alter the hand and appearance of the scarf.

If you want the threads to weave separately,  though dented together they pass singly thru the heddles, one per heddle, not on the same shaft.  Just thread them in pattern, as you did when using one thread per dent.  The threads pass one another neatly in the dent.  

If you use two threads in one heddle they weave as one in the pattern.  If you put the two threads thru two heddles on the same shaft they will also behave as one.  So here your choice depends on the size of the thread and how much you want them to stay parallel as you weave.  Put on a short 'waste' warp and try all 3 ways to thread and all will be clear.   A lot of extra and tedious re-threading but there is nothing like the seeing-by-doing method to understand what happens.  Hope this helps without being too much explaining.  Actually the testing out of your ideas can be the most fun. 

 You can download a free program WinWeave for most computers.  This is pretty basic once you try it and you can try out the weaving on the computer.  This lets you see what happens to the cloth as the threading and treadling and tie-up change.  Seeing the way this works can be a real ah-ha moment.  It is really helpful in keeping straight what the terms and diagrams really stand for.  Well graph paper works too, but better if you understand first what is happening. 

I learned to weave from the same book a long time ago and think it is really great.  If you do all the exercises you will be way ahead in what you understand.  It took me about 6 months, then I had to give the book back to the library and check it out again for the last several lessons. 

Good Luck!

 

Sat, 06/13/2009 - 20:44

JanS (not verified)

Hi Deb - All depends on what you want to happen here.  Using two threads together or singly will seriously alter the hand and appearance of the scarf.

If you want the threads to weave separately,  though dented together they pass singly thru the heddles, one per heddle, not on the same shaft.  Just thread them in pattern, as you did when using one thread per dent.  The threads pass one another neatly in the dent.  

If you use two threads in one heddle they weave as one in the pattern.  If you put the two threads thru two heddles on the same shaft they will also behave as one.  So here your choice depends on the size of the thread and how much you want them to stay parallel as you weave.  Put on a short 'waste' warp and try all 3 ways to thread and all will be clear.   A lot of extra and tedious re-threading but there is nothing like the seeing-by-doing method to understand what happens.  Hope this helps without being too much explaining.  Actually the testing out of your ideas can be the most fun. 

 You can download a free program WinWeave for most computers.  This is pretty basic once you try it and you can try out the weaving on the computer.  This lets you see what happens to the cloth as the threading and treadling and tie-up change.  Seeing the way this works can be a real ah-ha moment.  It is really helpful in keeping straight what the terms and diagrams really stand for.  Well graph paper works too, but better if you understand first what is happening. 

I learned to weave from the same book a long time ago and think it is really great.  If you do all the exercises you will be way ahead in what you understand.  It took me about 6 months, then I had to give the book back to the library and check it out again for the last several lessons. 

Good Luck!

 

Sat, 06/13/2009 - 20:53

suehelmken (not verified)

Hi Lisa,

Are you a member of the Potomac Craftsmen guild?  I'm in VA, but I met Bonnie at some of the meetings and got her book.  I do shibori and clothing, too.  I got a 60" LeClerc Colonial, used, with 12 shafts and flying shuttle.  I figured LeClerc could help me, but no such luck.  They don't deal with mechanical dobby systems any more and wouldn't/couldn't even give me a place to look for parts.  I'm getting by with what I have, but I'd really like to have another set of bars and straps [have lots of pegs] so I don't have to re-set them every time.

 

Sue Helmken

www.barefootweaver.com

 

Sat, 06/13/2009 - 21:00

suehelmken (not verified)

Hi Holly

I use a sectional beam, too.  When I'm using finer yarns, I run 2" sections on my warping board and put them directly on the warp beam.  It works well for 12-15 yd warps, but I think it would be too hard to control the tension on 30yds.  I wonder if sections of pvc pipe would work if you could glue bits of cheap carpet or rough cloth on them for friction.

Sue Helmken

Sat, 06/13/2009 - 21:05

suehelmken (not verified)

I've used a cotton-coated polyester yarn in that weight, and it kept it's shape pretty well.  It was from Textura Trading Co.  It came in white, and we used it for shibori and devore.  The cotton takes fiber reactive dyes fairly well.  I can't remember if they have it in colors or not.  Hope this helps.  Sue Helmken

Sat, 06/13/2009 - 21:12

TinaHilton (not verified)

If you do 2 ends per heddle, it's the same (approximately) as using yarn twice as thick.  8/2 tencel makes a lovely scarf.  I'd thread each thread through it's own heddle (1-2-3-4-3-2-1... for a point twill).  Then sley the reed at 2 per dent.  I remember being confused over this when I started weaving too.  I got it straight in my head by remembering that threading the heddles is for the pattern.  Sleying the reed is to get the right density/epi.  Be sure to let us know how the project turns out!