This is my frist project. I'm working from a kit.  The project sheet says the weaving width is 20", the warp width is 19", and the finished width after shrinkage is about 17".  This is 8/2 cotton with a sett of 24" -- sleyed at 2 per dent in a 12 dent reed.  Now that I'm beamed and tied on, the width at the beater is indeed 19 inches.  The warp width at the tie-on bar is 18.5".  After the first couple inches, the width at the fell line is about 18.25". 

I'm getting loops of thread at both selvages, which I think is mostly a sign of inconsistent throwing.  It gets better on the left when I throw faster, but is very bad on the right (my dominant side).

I tied on in 19 one-inch bundles.  Should I redo this, and try to spread the warp out to 20 inches?  Then I could use my temple, which unfortunately has a minimum length of 20".

Comments

Sun, 01/09/2011 - 03:00

Claudia Segal (not verified)

I believe the 20" weaving width means that you need to have at least 20" of weaving width to complete the project.  The warp, in the reed, measures 19" and you should have at least 1/2" space on either side, totaling 20".

The use of the temple is based on the width of the warp in the reed.  You indicate that the width in the beater (reed) is 19".  If you use a temple it should measure 19" too.

Can you provide some pictures of the "loops" you mention?  Make sure you are placing the weft in at about a 30 degree angle and it is firmly against the side of the warp.  There will be a slight amount of draw-in as you have seen.  You measurements seem accurate.  

Hope that helps,

Claudia

 

Wed, 01/26/2011 - 23:40

naturalfibres (not verified)

I would usually tie on no more than 1/2" bundles, as I find that this makes my tension better across the warp.

Thu, 01/27/2011 - 00:22

tien (not verified)

Why not use paperclip temples?  That's what I do.  See http://www.woolgatherers.com/id105.htm for an explanation...quick to make, easy to use, and works great!

Wed, 02/02/2011 - 16:39

suzyhok (not verified)

I've seen this idea before but have never used it.  I think I've always been worried that it would get in the way of throwing the shuttle...  Next project ... I'm going to give it a try.  I love simple solutions!!!

Thanks for sharing!

:-)  Suzy

Fri, 02/04/2011 - 14:01

sewwhatsports (not verified)

I bought a set of the chip bag clips that had 1-1 1/2" clips (in width).  I added a small pill bottle filled with nuts from the hardware store and wrapped the string around the top part of the clip.  Easy 'temple', can move it quickly, set how much weight is needed to hold the selvege  and no holes in my weaving

Sun, 02/06/2011 - 23:08

MaryMartha

I appreciate the suggestions, but temples made from aligator clips, heavy washers and nylon string are not working well for me. It is difficult to get much lateral tension going. This may be because I had already woven too much (with significant draw-in) before installing the temple.  I ordered a wooden temple. In the meantime, I cut off again and am restarting my tie-on. 

My first tie-on immediately after warping was the best.  I followed the method in Becky Ashedon's video, using one inch groups (1/2 in under and 1/2 inch over the tie-on bar).  But I ended up cutting off and fixing various threading problems.

On round two, I tried lashing on as described in Peggy Ostercamp's weaving for beginners. I may not have properly understood the "poking" step.  This used much less warp, but I tried it twice and could not get the tension even.  I did adopt one trick from Peggy's book: unweaving a small section by first cutting between the warps at strategic sections, rather than taking the weft out all the way across.  A bit nerve-wracking, but it worked and spared the warp.

I then went back to the traditional Swedish method of tying on directly to the bar. This time I reduced my groups to 1/2 inch, or 1/4 in under and 1/4 in over. With such small groups, I found that the bundles twisted much more, so that the first few inches of the warp ended up looking ropy.  This may be because of my warp thread (8/2 swedish cotton at 24 epi, doubled in a 12 dent reed). 

I retied using the first method (over and under in 1 in. bundles).  Tension was OK, but not as good as the first.  Then I had other problems, including the reed not hitting the fell evenly. After making various adjustments and weaving several inches to test, I was now getting excessive draw-in (rather than selvage loops). In order to install a temple, I again needed to unweave or cut off.  Because the warp bundles had been tied and retied so many times, and I was not all that happy with the tension, I decided to cut off and begin again.

Maybe fifth time's the charm.

Mon, 02/07/2011 - 17:56

lkautio (not verified)

I use Peggy's tie on method which has very little waste.  I tension the threads, tie an overhand knot, then open a plain (or plainish) weave shed to put the tie-cord through.  I leave the shed open during the tensioning process which allows the cord to move freely.  Push down with your hand or a stick on top of a very loose open shed to start to get the bundles roughly even before tightening.  For the poking, just jab each knot with a finger or your thumb working from one side to the other.  Tighten the tension one click on the ratchet (or a small amount on a break without ratchets), then poke again starting at the opposite side.  I use 1/2" to 1" bundles depending on how wide and coarse the warp is.  Use a smooth strong yarn for the cord.  You want it to move easily.  The process is fast and easy most of the time. When done I weave 3 picks without beating, then beat, and repeat until the warp is nicely spread out.

Laurie Autio

Thu, 02/10/2011 - 13:24

MaryMartha

Thanks, Laurie.  I had heard about opening a shed to center the cords, but I missed the suggestion to keep the shed open.  At some point, I will have to try this again, perhaps with a bit more patience.

Tue, 02/22/2011 - 22:30

trplr95 (not verified)

Another substitute for a temple is to use hemostats.  They clamp shut, with their jaws firmly attached, and I can tie a piece of yarn to the handle end - and because it is firmly clamped the yarn does not slide off.  I can attach the other end of this yarn to something weighty - a pair of scissors, a small water bottle, etc.  Hemostats are available on ebay for just a couple of dollars each. 

Trish

Fri, 02/25/2011 - 13:46

MaryMartha

That could be a good solution on looms (like mine) with open sides.  As it is, I have to run a cord from back to front for the string to rest on  in order to generate any lateral force at all - and it isn't much.

Do you have a favorite hemostat length?  I assume straight tip rather than curved.