Karren, I am a little confused on making the adjustments in the dyebath. We are given a ph range, but is there an ideal ph. my yarns are dying pretty colors and evenly, but I have too much color left in the dyebath-usually 1s and 2s, but there was a 4. I have dyed about half of the colors, but have not had a chance to make chips or post my results. I have made a little adjustment but I think it is getting worse.  BTW,  I am leaving early in the morning for a conference. I will not be able to attend class this week. I will view the recorded session.

Comments

SharonR (not verified)

I am still having issues with exhaust. I am not sure what I am doing wrong. Any suggestions? Thank you.

Karren K. Brito

You are still dyeing the pale olive?  Once you have moved on to dyeing the pure colors the process is carved in stone and cannot be modified without invalidating the previous dyeings.

So asuming you are still working with the pale olive and changing your process , I just want to verify that you are starting at pH 4.5, using soft water or hexametaphosphate, have a dwell time of greater than 30 min. and the final pH is 5 or less? 

If all this is true and the exhaust is 3 or more tell me about your silk: where did you buy it, what kind of silk is it, what color is it?

SharonR (not verified)

I thought my olive was ok so i started with all the colors. I am using the same process. I bought knitting yarn from Aurora silk. It is 100% natural soft white, no bleaches or optical whiteners, spun silk with long 4 inch staple, 5/2 metric count.

Karren K. Brito

 it is because you have your process clear and shouldn't change it anymore.  What we need now is consistency. Just keep going, write in your notebook the degree of exhaust.

I assume that your silk is from Bombyx Mori, the cultivated silk worm, because it is unbleached and white.  Tussah silk can be difficult to dye but is usually honey-colored or bleached.

I'm looking forward to seeing the Munsell notation on the first colors you dyed.