Comments

Wed, 12/11/2013 - 18:54

Queezle

... but I would love to make a large fuzzy blanket.  Bravo!  Maybe next winter I've try to face that challenge.  Can you tell me about the weight of the yarn you used?

Wed, 12/11/2013 - 19:15

ReedGuy

I see another of her drafts from the book is 8 epi per layer. That is usually the weight I weave with heavier yarn. I do have some Harrisville yarn that I think takes a set of 12 epi per layer, and am going to weave the Canada Centennial plaid. I usually blanket stitch the ends.

Looks like you made out just fine with your blanket.

Harrisville Shetland 1800 yards/lb

Wed, 12/11/2013 - 20:14

Susan Styrchak (not verified)

It was 8 ends per layer- I don't always know what to say when I can't qualify the comments in the given info box.  The La-mieux wool was Quebecois at 985 yards per pound- that I used for warp; and the 2/7 cum for weft was 1640 yds per pound.

I did blanket stitch the blanket on the bed; the afgan is a hybred- blanket stitch on one end and fringe on the other...and I just realized the afgan used a combination for weft of the La-mieux Quebecois and Beauceronne (courtesy of an stash sale)

Wed, 12/11/2013 - 20:26

Susan Styrchak (not verified)

Wool is more forgiving- I did a tablecloth years ago and wasn't happy- it was cotton and I was a newer weaver back then. So after seeing some newer weavers come with their (double weave) projects to show & tell at guild meetings, I knew I had to try again....They say to put the fold on your better edge. Also, I single spaced the last 3 threads at the fold instead of two to a dent- (8 ends per layer=16 epi), and it was a dark colour at the fold, which probably helped.

Wed, 12/11/2013 - 20:33

ReedGuy

Ah, yes. Now I understand the sett. I think you used the right entries as is. My brain was not fully awake. :)

I could not see the blanket ends, just the shawl I guess and thought it was the same piece. Regardless, everything looks great to me. :)

Wed, 12/11/2013 - 20:38

ReedGuy

Your yarn grist is pretty much the same as Briggs and Little that I use, only I'm going to use a slightly lighter yarn which is softspun for a softer wool on the skin.

I do think the idea of a tighter sett at the fold is legit as the book suggests, however it usually gets tighter anyway from draw in on those last couple dents. So you probably did the right thing. With wool it fulls and packs much better than cotton to begin with. But I have used cotton for the removable threads once woven because it doesn't bind to the wool, like wool on wool would.

Wed, 12/11/2013 - 20:47

ReedGuy

As far as the table cloths, just practice. I find merc cotton better than n on merc for table cloth. Just finished one a couple weeks ago and it's nice and square and no folds or ruffles on the oval ends. But undulations in the cloth below the edge, simply because of change in shape from square edge to oval end. That is just the way any table cloth hangs below curved edges. I don't think linen takes to curves as well according to my upholstery books. So linen for sqaure ended tables I guess.

Finished Length Unit
yards
Finished Width Unit
yards
Length Off Loom Unit
yards
Length on Loom Unit
yards
Notes

I used Jennifer Moore's draft for a double weave herringbone.Because I dyed some of the warp yarn purple, (see warp photo),  I was a little concerned that the blanket would end up crooked, but it seems to have worked out! It fits the twin bed at 80 inches long and left 70 inches for a good sized afgan...

Number of Shafts
8
Number of Treadles
10
Project Status
Finished
Sett Unit
epi
Width off Loom Unit
inches
Width on Loom Unit
inches