Welcome to all who wish to build their own weaving equipment.In this group I hope we can share some more technical information on construction and design, places to obtain parts and supplies,and Ideas to enhance all our weaving experiences.If you are a weaver,braider,band weaver,or spinner, you probably have an Idea of how to improve your equipment.Show what you have built, modifyed,or considered. Remember,it took one person to invent the wheel,but it took tens of thousands of people to put it to good use! Regards, TheLoominary.

Comments

Thu, 02/03/2011 - 20:02

TheLoominary (not verified)

Have you been fighting your equipment? Do you have an Idea how to to make it work better? Some weaving equipment designs have been around for what seems like an eternity! What we are using today is the result of trial end error,innovation,and improvements made by weavers just like us! You don't need a PHD in wood working, or metal fabrication to make improvements.Most of the equipment I build is done outside in front of the barn with hand tools,and light duty power tools.The hard work comes from the studio,taking notes,making drawings,writing down Ideas before I forget them!Lets change it,fix it and get back to what we all love WEAVING! Regards,TheLoominary
Mon, 02/21/2011 - 18:54

steve104c (not verified)

Came across a great deal. I have a Delta Contractors saw 1988 model ( I bought new). Where my wife works, they have a "for sale" bulletin board on the computer. She called me the last Thur. and said someone was selling a Delta Contractors saw,  year 2002 model. The last year this model was made in USA. Saw w/30' Unifence and table, portable stand, dado blade and three other blades. $500.00. Cleaned it up. He had stored it in the garage for last 4 years and I would guess he hadn't used it more than a dozen times. Looks brand new. Going to give my old saw to my nephew.............Steve.

Tue, 02/22/2011 - 02:14

TheLoominary (not verified)

Ah!, a new saw, maybe a new equipment project to test it out on! A quality tool that will aid in turning an idea into a new weaving tool! Enjoy, Frank.

Tue, 02/22/2011 - 08:50

kerstinfroberg

I make fringe twisters, like for instance these:

That is, I need two circles per twister. I'm using "hole saws", but am having a problem: after 10-12 "holes", they are useless - completely dulled. (is that the right word? I know nothing about woodworking words in English...)

I suppose the plywood is one of the culprits - but I *would* like to find a hole saw that would last a little longer. There are some very expensive saws, and last time I invested in one. But... it was almost impossible to get the circle out of the saw, and also, it was much coarser than the cheaper saws. All finer saws I have found are of the type "10 sizes to fit into one holder".

Any thoughts?

Tue, 02/22/2011 - 15:07

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hello Kerstin, First, let me commend you on your very artful use of "found" items such as the fork. I know of one Swedish company manufacturing very high quality hole saws. Sandvik is well known world wide. The saw cups have holes in the side of the body to insert a pin, or screwdriver to aid in material removal. The "Bi-Metal" type would be a good choice for longer wear.I don't know how fine the tooth count is available in their product line however. That said, a little trick to aid in wood grain tear out,would be to place "masking" tape around the area to be cut, both sides,then remove, pulling carefully from the inside toward the cut edge.Hope this helps. Frank. 

Wed, 02/23/2011 - 11:36

kerstinfroberg

Yes, there were several steps in the designing of the twisters, the most difficult being making a jig for the bending of the cranks (? -shafts?). The next was finding nice, but cheap and readily available, handles.

Now, all my twisters have cutlery for "holding-handles" and chessmen for "turning-handles". At least, it gives them a unique look!

The problem with the closed saw is prizing the circles out with a screwdriver without marking them - . (The problem with the dulled saws is that they burn their way through, instead of sawing.)

Wed, 02/23/2011 - 16:07

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hello Kirstin, I have experienced similar problems with hole saws. The enemy of all tempered cutting surfaces is HEAT! This is a greater problem when using the cheaper saws. I have found that making small cuts, then backing off to keep things cool will extend your tool life. Also, I use a round screwdriver with the tip wrapped with tape as a cushion just large enough to pass through the hole. If you have two holes switch back and fourth prying evenly.If your tool has a set screw to hold the drill bit, loosen it while removing your circle. Hope some of this helps.Frank.

Wed, 02/23/2011 - 20:07

Slipstream (not verified)

I don't know how many of these you make at a time and I am not sure what the diameter or the thickness of the disks is but most hole saws I use (my favorites are Lennox and Milwaukee but Sandvik makes excellent saws)  have a couple of holes in the back and the mandrel unscrews from the saw body so you can pull out your center drill.  You could make a disk that fits loosely in the hole saw with two projecting dowels (metal) that project through the two holes in the back of the saw.  Remove the mandrel and center drill, tip the saw over and hit it on a flat surface to dislodge the disk.  The disk on the inside fo the say wojld not mark the disk you cut provided you did not have anythin projecting on its face. If you felt uncomfortable with two spinning dowels you could always have two dowels set in a piece of wood that went through the back of the saw and pushed on the loose second disk inside thereby preventing the work piece from being marked.

 

Regards,

Charles

Wed, 05/25/2011 - 22:30

cashrut

I'm running myself ragged!  One loom upstairs, one downstairs, have to use the swift in the kitchen and wind bobbins in my basement workshop!  Needless to say, I need to consolidate and move everything into one room.  So, I am looking for any assistance in building something similar to Schacht's Winding Station or Leclerc's HoldsAll.  The design looks fairly simple, but thought if anyone had dimensions or directions they had already developed, this process might go a bit smoother and quicker.  Many thanks...

Sun, 05/29/2011 - 20:27

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hello Cashrut, building a Winding Station is a great way to organize, and as you said, it is a straightforward design.The spool rack/ twining station I built, pictured on the front page of "Home Built Equipment" was built of 1"x4" #2 pine scraps, and the spool rack of poplar, purchased locally at "Home Depot". While most commercial equipment is built of Maple or other hardwood, pine will last for many years of use. There are good photo's ,and measurements at: Halcyon Yarn, Paradise Fibers, and Camilla Vally website's of the items you want to build.I use a "roundover" bit on my router on all edges to assure smooth edges, but a good hand sanding will also work well.I personally like the base of the Schacht Winding station, as it is wide and stable, that said, the Leclerc unit could easily be done the same way. Hope this helps, and perhaps someone else has one of these units, and will post more detailed measurements. Regards, Frank

Mon, 05/30/2011 - 01:41

cashrut

Thanks Frank.  I have been considering combining a reed rack with the winding station to avoid having multiple items taking unnecessary floor space.  Will go out to your suggested sites for details.  Appreciate any additional suggestions you may have....Ruth

Mon, 05/30/2011 - 13:15

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi Ruth, adding a place for reed storage sounds great. With the reeds added weight, possibly at both ends, using a wide base for balance the entire unit would become very stable, and a pleasure to work at. Please keep us informed as your project progresses. We are here to help if needed. Regards, Frank

Thu, 03/01/2012 - 12:53

Kristin Duckworth

Hi all, I'm new here. I've been a weaver for over 30 years, though. I have a Varpa Finlandia  CM loom, 48" wide, with 8 shafts & 12 treadles, and I am planning to extend the tie-up out the back of the loom, like the '20+' adaption that a loom company offers. Has anyone tried this? And is there anything I should look out for, in the way of problems I may encounter? Regards, Kristin.