I think we have a lot of great suff on the ''getting started in backstrap weaving'' thread and now we can take a look at warpng and setting up the loom. Where do  those sticks go and what do they do?

Please post your experiences, helpful links and above all PHOTOS of.....

1.your warping boards, or ingenious ways to do without one.

2.setting up your warp-directly on the loom bars or do you use edging cord or........?


AND keep adding stuff to the ''getting started thread''...........new ideas always welcome!!

Thanks,

Laverne

Comments

Thu, 07/09/2009 - 20:00

bolivian warmi

My warping boards........I.join the big and medium one end to end for longer projects. I never go longer than that. The little one is used for narrow bands and dismantles for travel.

The portable board-the posts are long screws secured to the plank with a nut. Paper tubes protect the two end posts so the warps don't get stuck in the screw threads. It could be clamped to a table although I usually warp on the floor and anchor it with my foot. Great for small sample projects, bookmarks, keyrings, bands. And, at right, the way I used to warp when I lived in Chile.

Laverne

 

 

Thu, 07/09/2009 - 22:32

Virag (not verified)

I've been experimenting with using stakes for portablility.  I'd like some thinner ones but these did a fine job for setting up a warp.

Thu, 07/09/2009 - 23:46

francorios (not verified)

Bravo Virag!

Very nicely done!

I am also going to use stakes in the ground for warping my loom!

Have a good day!

Fri, 07/10/2009 - 00:22

Caroline (not verified)

 I use to bits of 4 x 2 with wooden pegs in them that I clamp to my kitchen table. I have managed up to a 7 metre warp on it.

Portable warping frame

Fri, 07/10/2009 - 00:44

bolivian warmi

Thanks to everyone for all the pics. Yummy yarn colors in the background there, Caroline.

Laverne

Fri, 07/10/2009 - 13:36

bolivian warmi

Thanks Jess.

I LOVE his warping set up on the you tube video-so simple!

The photos of the backstrap weaver from Ayacucho are brilliant too.However, you tend to think that all the textiles photographed above the backstrap demo were woven on a backstrap loom (except the HUGE ones of course). I have been to Ayacucho and those pieces are made on floor looms.

Nevertheless, the step by step photos are great and the writer has done a very nice job of describing it all.

Thank you for posting that!

Laverne

Fri, 07/10/2009 - 21:20

janh (not verified)

 Hi there -

I have absolutely no words of wisdom on warping.  I use an Inkle loom.  My heddles, however, I can discuss.  They are thread (Knit Cro-Sheen).  I measure them out on 3 fingers of my left hand, catching the warp thread each time.  This way I can literally feel if the heddles are getting smaller and tighter as I go along.  If I am doing a piece that is wider than about an inch, I tie the heddles in a larks-head knot to a 1/4 inch dowel to keep them in order.  (I also use the center tube from a tube of yarn to keep my "open shed" warp threads in order - just thread some Cro-Sheen through the tube and over the warps.

I usually tie up to an eye-bolt that is in my floor loom.  I didn't want to put a hole in the walls or a piece of furniture.  I aso can sit in a chair rather than on the floor.  However, you can tie up to a "C-clamp" that is put on the edge of a table-top upsidedown so the handle that you use to tighten the clamp is up.  Just hook on to the handle  It does work.

My warp is twinned onto 1/4 inch dowels (no edging cord) that are attached to the closet-pole loom bars.  (That way, I can be working on more than one piece at the same time.)

J -

Sat, 07/11/2009 - 12:59

davasdu (not verified)

what sort of yarn can i use with a backstrap loom? if i spin my own yarn what does it need to be like? does using a rigid heddle as oposed to a string heddle effect the types of yarn i can use ?

Sat, 07/11/2009 - 13:14

Caroline (not verified)

hi, I've never used my own handspun as a warp, but everything I have read points to the fact it needs to be far more tightly spun than commercial knitting yarn or even some weaving yarns. I'm using a smooth cotton warp with nylon string heddles on a loom at the moment and the warp is taking quite a beating, far more than if I was using a rigid heddle.

Whether its a rigid heddle or string heddles you use, the warp needs to be tight and smooth, not loose and lofty, so a worsted-spun yarn is what you need to aim for. Theres no reason not to use handspun, a lot of weavers do, and many have successfully used singles, though I would suggest reading some of the articles on the Spin-Off site on using singles first. Perhaps you could make a sample, and treat it roughly to see how much handling your proposed warp will tolerate? And then let us know how you go - happy sampling!

Sat, 07/11/2009 - 16:38

bolivian warmi

Hi Jess,

I have used my own handspun llama fiber-spun hard, then plied. When  I have bought wool, I have had to prepare it by overspinning it. The mercerized 8/2 cotton that I use does not require any preparation. If you are weaving warp-faced where all the warps are pushed close together, there is a lot of abrasion and wool fibers tend to mesh and make it a little difficult to open a clean shed. Each yarn has its advantages. As I mostly weave pick up patterns, the cotton gives motifs with clean, well defined edges and the mercerized has a wonderful sheen. However I like the rustic look of the handspun llama too.It just requiresa little more effort when it comes to opening the sheds. I used Navajo warp once which was spun good and hard but never my own handspun sheep's wool.

String heddles at first may be a little difficult to manage as you need to coordinate your body movements-releasing and applying tension-as you open them and beginners do tend to drag them about until they get a feel for it. This can cause excessive pilling around the strings and warps to break.  If you are planning to weave a first project warp-faced with string heddles, I would recommend using a firm cotton for your warp rather than wool and some kind of nylon string for the heddles. I guess because I have been weaving warp-faced so many years I am quite comfortable just using the same 8/2 cotton for the heddles as I do for the warp.

I have never used a rigid heddle on a backstrap loom but I imagine you would not need to overspin your yarn as the warps are spaced. However, Carloine and esmecat (Jen), who has just finished a piece on a rigid heddle will be able to answer your questions on that. Esmecat has blogged about her project-you can see her piece on the ''getting started'' thread.

Hope this helps, Jess.

Laverne

Mon, 07/13/2009 - 00:53

bolivian warmi

Some warping hints for first timers......

WARPING 101 for warp-faced texties- for plain textiles or ones with vertical stripes in 2 or more colors.                                                                                                                                    

The two warping posts are marked ''A'' and ''B''.

1.Tie your warp to post ''A'' using a ''roomy'' loop so it will be easy to remove the warp from the warping posts and insert your loom bars. Use the same kind of' '' roomy'' loop when you finish warping.  

2.The figure-of-eight path that the warp follows

3.if you want to use another color, for warp stripes,cut off color 1 and tie on color 2 at post ''A''.

WARPING 101-for warp-faced textiles with two colors to produce horizontal stripes or to weave a 2-color pick up pattern.

The two colors will need to be separated into two sheds on the loom-one shed being controlled by heddles and the other by a shed rod. You can wind the colors together on the warping board and then separate them into two groups once on the loom OR you can separate them out in one step on the warping board itself..

 

1. Winding the two colors together on the warping board-colors to be separated out later on the loom..

2. Adding two additional posts (cross posts) to separate the colors on the warping board-very time saving if you are warping a wide piece....

2a. The path of color 1.....2bThe path of color 2-SHOWN SEPARATELY HERE FOR CLARITY.

3a. A half bout of color 1 and color 2 wound TOGETHER. Color 1 passes the cross posts first and then color 2 on top of it.

3b. Second half of the bout with color 1 and color 2 being wound TOGETHER. Color 1 passes the cross posts first and then color 2 on top of it.

Laverne

                                                                

Wed, 07/15/2009 - 01:42

bolivian warmi

The following link will show you step-by-step how to take the warp off the warping board and set it up on your loom bars so that your weaving will have a smooth edged beginning rather than a fringe-that is, 3 selvedges.

www.flickr.com/photos/39560980@N05/sets/72157620403141450/   

Follow these instrutions for BOTH loom bars if you don't want fringe at either end-that is, a piece with 4 selvedges. (See Franco's post of his washcloth on the ''getting started'' thread for a nice example of a 4-selvedge piece.)

Laverne

Thu, 07/16/2009 - 05:15

Caroline (not verified)

Have just found this interesting article on Chinese backstrap weaving - its full of beautiful photos and shows a lot of different kinds of backtrap looms, from the big ones the size of a floor loom, through to those tensioned between the body and the feet. The whole site is worth browsing for the different types of tapestry weaving - I didn't know there were soooooooo many different techniques!

www.marlamallett.com/miao-photos.htm

Thu, 07/16/2009 - 13:18

bolivian warmi

Great site! I tried tensioning the far loom  bar with my feet when I was at my mum's house in Australia because there just wasn't anywhere to tie up. The warp wasn't quite the right length for it and I ended up with loom bar between my big and second toes. Well it worked but I couldn't manage that position for very long.

So many looms, so many techniques!

Sat, 07/18/2009 - 14:32

bolivian warmi

      

                         (A)                                                                       (B)                                                             

                           (C)

Picture A.....Your warp is off your warping board with temporary sticks in place to hold the cross. My sticks are taped together for security-I don't trust tying them-if they fall out at this stage you have no choice but to start over.

Picture B.....The far temporary stick has been replaced with a thicker ''shed stick'. This one has notched ends and string has been tied from one end to the other for security. Continuous string heddles have been made for the warps that were passing over the top of the near temporary cross stick.

Picture C....This step is optional. I like to place another stick behind the shed stick and tie the two together. This stick is under all the warps that are controlled by the heddles. You need to part the warps behind the shed stick and pick up the warps one by one from below and then insert the new stick. Having these two sticks tied together will stop your shed stick from sliding and rolling around.

NOW YOU ARE READY TO WEAVE!!!!.

Sun, 07/19/2009 - 03:20

francorios (not verified)


Okay, I had a false start a couple of days ago. I warped up the loom, for a 16 inch wide by 24 inch long towel using Peaches & Creme white for most of the warp/weft and Sugar & Creme variegated black/white for borders. I adjusted my craft frame and tied the loom bars 24 inch apart. I continuous warped the loom bars. My camera ate the pictures of what happened next.



I tied edge cords onto both ends of the warp so I could get a nice finished edge (selvedge) to the piece. Then I moved the loom bars so I could lash the edge cords to the loom bar, I set a couple of dowels into the warp to hold the crossing of the warp threads (cross). This held up for while and I was able to get myself ready to weave by sitting on the couch with the other end of the loom tied to a bolt attached under a counter top.

As I tried to arrange my sticks, I learned that I had crossed a few warps. Bummer. And my edge cord had missed a few warps also. Bummer.

Then I tipped the loom sideways and the cross sticks fell out. Bummer. I tried to use a pickup stick to recover the warp cross. Very slow going and not very successful. I was extremely grumpy about this turn of events. If I lived in a more primitive setting, I would have gone out and shot a buffalo.

I untied the whole thing and started over. Ahhhh! Much better. I found that double checking every warp and cross doesn't take time, it saves time. Rubber bands are a fast way to tie up the ends of leash sticks to hold a cross. Tying a safety string across heddle and shed sticks also saves time.

More in next message 5000 character limit is cramping my style.

Sun, 07/19/2009 - 03:20

francorios (not verified)




Here I am on the second try. I saw pictures of people sitting on the floor with their backstrap looms and so I though I would try it. It's not bad. I need more cushion for sitting. Also need a cushion under my knees to put a little bit of flex in my knees to keep from hyper extending the knee joint. Otherwise it's not bad. I had joked about my legs being too short for my feet to hold the far end of the loom, 30 inch long trouser leg, and it turns out it is not a problem when weaving a 24 inch towel!


Here is my view of the weaving. The loom bar at the bottom is tied to my belt strap. Then it is tied to the lashed edge cord dowel. Then we have about 2 inches of black/white border to go with the two inches of black/white warp border. There is a pickup stick that is used to hold open the shed for the stick shuttle to go through. There is the string heddle on a stick, with a safety string. Behind that is another flat stick for making a shed. Then a round shed stick, with a safety string. Then the far edge cord dowel lashed to the far loom bar. And finally, a loop of rope to go over my shoes.

Did I mention that safety strings save time?


Here is a picture of the string heddle in action, holding up a set of warp for the shed stick to go under.


Here is the really cool part. You can put your shuttle stick on top of your work in progress, then start rolling from the loom bar until you get to the far loom bar and you now ready for transport! Most of the loom parts are 18 inch long, the heddle stick is 24 inch long, but still easy to pack and move. I can cut down that heddle stick.

Have a good day!

Sun, 07/19/2009 - 08:14

Caroline (not verified)

My commiserations, Franco, but it looks pretty good in the photos!

It took me longer than I thought to get my own mess back into shape, but its coming along nicely now. I did learn one thing though, lol!

If you are going to weave at night, don't use a black continuous warp! It has to be the hardest thing to re-heddle, grrr!

I've rigged up a pulley system attached to the window frame  that I can attach the backstrap to. I do, however , have a few doubts as to how much stress I can put on it before the whole window drops out. That aside, it should work well, otherwise I'll be down on the floor too exercising my toes! I suspect I shall have to start moving all my furniture around, hehe!

Sun, 07/19/2009 - 10:49

daisey27 (not verified)

Hi

Am I right in thinking that if you weave a warp faced fabric you have one colour on the bottom and another on the top. and if you weave a weft fabric you use thinner warp threads all one colour and thicker weft threads/yarn so it will show more?

Karina

Sun, 07/19/2009 - 13:50

bolivian warmi

Hi Karina,

Warp-faced can be all one colour-I just use two colours because I do pick up patterns. You can wind the entire warp in the simple figure-of-eight path all in one color and make a plain textile or add in some other colors in the same simple figure-of-eight if you want verticle stripes. I use the same yarn for the weft. The weft gets completely covered and can't be seen.Warp-faced pieces tend to be stiffer as the warps are pushed so close together and the weft beaten in hard.

You can make a balanced weave textile where both the warp and weft are visible-that is what esmecat made-you can use the same yarn for both the warp and weft or different yarns depending on the effect you want.

And for weft faced texties-talking from the only experience I have had  with tapestry woven Navajo style rugs, yes the warps tend to be thinner than the wefts. The warps will be completely covered by the wefts but I  am sure that there are other options for this that I know nothing about.

Laverne

Sun, 07/19/2009 - 16:52

francorios (not verified)

More Backstrap weaving


The next morning: After weaving to the middle of the piece, I turned the loom around and started weaving from the far end. I will end my weaving in the middle of the piece and have all four sides with finished selvedge. With about 3 inches of weaving to go, I remove the flat shed sticks and use 3/8 dowels to hold the sheds.

In the picture above, the upper most stick is a shed stick, with safety string, holding the upper shed. The lower shed is controlled with a string heddle stick, which is flopped down so you can see the upper shed stick.


In the next picture, we see the string heddle moved up over the upper shed stick so you can see the lower shed. which I have opened with a 3/8 dowel. This dowel has a flat wedge on one end put there by using sandpaper. This helps me to push the stick through the warp to open the shed.

When the shed is open, I push the weft through with a needle made from a chopstick, which is in the picture. If I try to pull the weft through without that shed stick holding open a space for the needle, the weft drags through the closed warp (shed) and pulls the warp out of line. It also becomes difficult to keep the right amount of slack in the weave. My chopstick is not long enough to go across on one throw. So I used the blunt end of a plastic crochet hook to push it the extr 4 or 5 inches out of the shed (see the small yellow plastic rod in the lower right of the picture).

To beat the weft, I am using a pet grooming comb with metal pins for teeth that happens to have 1/4 inch spacing, which is just right for my project. I can also use a dinner fork if I need to.

More later!
Have a good day!
Sun, 07/19/2009 - 17:28

bolivian warmi

Hi Franco,

This is great watching your work advance.

I have a tip for you that was given to me when I was learning Navajo weaving and was going through the finishing steps as you are now. You can use one of the arms from an old umbrella-one of the big guys-not the collapsable variety-to use as your ''needle'' to pass the last wefts-they are thin and good and long and at the end where they attach to the top of the umbrella they already have a convenient hole to pass your weft through.

Hopefuly you have some busted umbrellas around-I have a bunch of the monsters that are beyond repair. And your joke before about the 30-inch pant leg went completely over my head!! Now I get it-I'm used to thinking in centimeters(and also spelling centimeters like this...centimetres) .

Good luck and thanks for sharing all this. Also I envy the speed with which you have completed your project. On the pick-up pattern piece I am weaving now,advancing the width of four fingers in a day is good going-every row is a complicated pick.

Laverne

 

 

Mon, 07/20/2009 - 08:28

Caroline (not verified)

I'm up and running too! This is my view of my backstrap in action.

It could still do with a few refinements, but the cats think its a brand new toy, just for them!

This is the unholy banana silk yarn, thats as flexible as mild steel, particularly if you are silly enough to think it will bend back on itself to go into the next shed. But the colours and texture are lovely, even if its a bit hard to handle.

I've put a large hook into the wooden window frame, behind the curtains, so when not in use it hangs out of sight. I have a pulley system so I can adjust it for all length of warps, and remain seated on my sofa in comfort. Please note the spare shoe laces - the non-stretchy woven cotton ones are really really useful, and the knots stay tied! The yellow nylon bricklayer's twine was not a good choice, as it comes undone as soon as you look at it, and tangles before you have a chance to touch it.

Mon, 07/20/2009 - 16:07

Bonnie Datta (not verified)

Hi Everyone.  The photos and commentaries on setting up a loom are so helpful.  Thanks everyone.

My question is: Does anyone set up their backstrap so that the woven web is far and the unwoven warp is near?  That kind of set-up would have derived from warp-weighted weaving, and would require the beat to be away from the body rather than towards it.

I do tablet weaving on a vertical warp-weighted arrangement, and I really prefer it to any kind of loom where the textile and the warp are fixed.  The live weight "gives", just as is possible with a backstrap, and that makes it so much easier to get the hands in there for patterning, while still being able to beat on a very tight warp.

Bonnie.