When dressing the loom, does it matter if loops on the backstick are crossed over or out of sequence so long as the cross is maintained on the cross/lease sticks?

Mike

Comments

Tue, 05/31/2011 - 14:59

lkautio (not verified)

A little crossing won't hurt in warping back to front.  I separate out the groups per raddle section (generally 1/2") and keep the cross on the lease sticks quite close to the end of the warp.  I don't worry about some crossing in the raddle groups.  With very fine threads I warp with two crosses (a raddle cross and a threading cross).  I know there are some threads out of sequence within the group, but it does not seem to make a difference.  A viciously sticky yarn may be better off carefully ordered at the start.  Remember that your warping technique (and loom) may affect your results.

Laurie Autio

Tue, 05/31/2011 - 15:10

Mike (not verified)

Thank you Laurie.  I started warping with the "Back to Front" method and then tried the "Front to Back", which I must say that I prefer.  However, the ladies that I weave with have been slightly critical about this method, so I've gone back to the "Back to Front" and hence my original query about crossed threads.  As a beginner, should I acquiesce to their comments or stick with what I find easiest!!??

Regards Mike

Tue, 05/31/2011 - 16:30

Claudia Segal (not verified)

I believe you should give both methods a try and whichever works better for you or for the project you are working on it the method you choose.  I use b2f except when working with a supplemental warp.  For that one project, I find f2b works better because I can add the supplemental warp threads as I am sleying the reed.  When I tried doing it b2f things were really tangled and I broke many warp threads.

This is my personal opinion and I must say I have only been weaving for 7 years so I am a very new weaver and learning every day.

Claudia

Tue, 05/31/2011 - 17:43

lkautio (not verified)

This argument goes around and around.  You can make either work in most circumstances.  Some looms are easier to do one way or the other. People tend to prefer whichever method they master first. Experts who study time/motion are more apt to recommend back to front.  I warp back to front unless I have a special reason for f2b (such as designing color in the reed).  I do that because I do not want to cut my perfectly tensioned warp and then retie it together causing lots of minor changes to the length of the threads.  Those need to be evened out and pulled through and can cause tangling as well.  I also work with some threads I would rather not drag through the heddles twice (fine or poor resistance to abrasion).

Choose f2b if you really like seeing the threads go on in exact parallel order or need them to do so for a reason (such as painting the warp on the loom - messy but some do it).  Choose it if you like to use lots of different yarns and design in the reed spontaneously.

Choose b2f if you have a fine or tender yarn that won't stand up to abrasion well.  Choose b2f if you are confident that the warp you wound was done with good, even tension and you want to preserve that tension with the least effort. Choose b2f if you are looking to save time by not having to tie on and tension both ends, and fuss with tension as beaming.

My suggestion:  Learn either method well, then learn the other well.  Then you can feel comfortable using whichever seems right for the yarn, loom, your personal ergonomics, the design requirements, and your preferences.  Keep notes, time yourself, read Fannin.  Have fun!

Laurie Autio