Is there a way to warp several threads together as a group using a warping paddle with a warping board?  I would like to do groups of stripes for a rug I want to weave and do not want to wrap one stand of yarn at a time on the warping board.  I am planning to have 5 different colors per stripe group and then repeat these stripe groups over and over again.  

If this is possible, what is the best way to do it?

Thanks for your assistance.

Comments

Thu, 08/08/2013 - 10:50

Erica

I hope you'll fund the previous discussion on this useful http://www.weavolution.com/forum/weaving/how-warping-paddle Please let us know if you have any questions! Cheers, Erica
Thu, 08/08/2013 - 23:17

ReedGuy

Worst describes it in his book 'Foot Powered Loom Weaving' on pages 17-19. It's available online in different formats as a digitized book.

Foot Powered Loom Weaving

Fri, 08/09/2013 - 13:53

sally orgren

But it takes a little practice. 

5 colors in the paddle, but how long is the warp? (A short warp of 2-5 yards is a great place to start.)

I am assuming you have no other special equipment to try this (like a spool rack)—you plan to wind off the cones.

When you use a paddle, the threads feed off individual sources into the paddle — which can be either all-holes, or slots-n-holes/rigid heddle, depending upon which kind you have. (I find the slots-n-holes/rigid heddle easier to use when making the cross than the all-holes kind.)

You want a straight path pulling the yarn from the source (cones) to the warp board. So going vertical (straight upward), and then horizontal (across), i.e. not pulling "diagonally" from the top of the cone toward the warp board will help.

Even with diligence, the warps will have a tendency to twist a bit as they come off the cones and travel toward the paddle, more likely to do so as you proceed with a longer warp. 

Using something to drape all the warps over (a bar or rod) before they approach the paddle & warp board area may help. (So they pull straight up from the cone, over the bar, then go horizontal) Or, if they really bind up after winding several yards, cut them off at a logical place, clear the tangles, re-thread the paddle, and start again where you left off. 

Another trick is to keep the paddle perpendicular to the warp board (keep the same, consistent orientation the whole time) so the warp threads feed consistently whether you are going down or up the board.

The final trick is making the cross. You need to figure out how to lift and lower the paddle as you go through those two pegs to keep your cross, or hold the paddle and use your other hand to manipulate the threads into position. (Remember, you don't necessarily have to do a 1-to-1 cross.)

For just five threads, I might consider just running them through my hands and not use the paddle. But this too, takes practice. You will feel all thumbs for awhile. (But trying it and perfecting it has a big payoff down the road!)

Daryl Lancaster offers a class in warping with the paddle. I don't know if she has a monograph on the technique available, you can check her website. If she does, chances are it has good photos included. Peggy Ostercamp has books/DVDs available for reference on this technique. It's great to take a class or watch how someone does this to build good technique.

I encourage you to try it. It is a GREAT skill to have in your tool box, and winding more than one warp at a time saves a tremendous amount of time.