I've been wondering about tie ups -- do people have a standard tie up that they use most of the time?  Or do you analyze the pattern you're weaving and figure out the most practical tie up for that particular draft?  Are there standard tie-ups for standard drafts? 

I like to make sure each foot does about half the work, and to alternate feet with each pick so I can throw towards the treadling foot, but that isn't always possible.

Comments

Sun, 06/14/2009 - 02:38

Lodi_Weaver (not verified)

 I just alternate the side of the loom that I tie-up on.  So for my current project, which uses 8 treadles, I have 1-3-5-7 on the left side, and 8-6-4-2 on the other.

Because of the sequence I'm currently using, I just kept them in "order".  There are times when I tie up so I can just treadle from outside to inside, alternating sides as I do it.  Not every sequence works well for that though.

I hope that make sense.

 

Sun, 06/14/2009 - 04:58

laurafry

Depends on the weave structure.  The tie up for a Bronson Lace is  vastly different than that for a waffle weave or twill. 

The important thing to my mind, is that the tie up makes sense to you in order to reduce treadling sequence errors.

Cheers,

 

Laura

Tue, 06/16/2009 - 14:42

amyfibre (not verified)

I prefer to set up my treadles in a "walking order" for the structure I'm weaving....ie. left, right, left, right, left right.  Not always possible, but that's my ideal.

The most useful tool that I have found for achieving this is the shaft shuffling functionality in Fiberworks PCW (for newbies, that's the weaving software that I use).

I design the draft with visually logical treadling, but before I print out the tie-up/treadling and go to the loom, I rearrange the treadles.

For example, if it's a straight treadling on 10 treadles, I rearrange from:

1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10

to

1  6  2  7  3  8  4  9  2  10

or, as in the case of the summer & winter I am weaving right now:

1  2  for tabby

5 - 10 for pattern

nothing on 3 4

Sometimes it's a bit tricky to figure out what's the most efficient (and logical) way to rearrange....then I start by sitting at the loom and scratching some notes on what "feels" right, but then I eventually go back to the computer and rearrange the treadles in the draft to make sure I get the tie-up right.

Hope this makes sense.

Thu, 06/18/2009 - 02:10

Cynthia

Oh, I like the idea of designing it one way and then rearranging for practical treadling.  Haven't tried any software yet, though.

Thu, 06/18/2009 - 03:50

hlf (not verified)

I admit, I'm scared of trying anything that isn't a straight 1-10, left to right!  I haven't been weaving long enough to have encountered efficiency challenges.  But perhaps on my next project...

Mon, 07/06/2009 - 23:57

rosearbor (not verified)

 I'm with amyfibre - I really like walking treadlings.  Sometimes I will mix it up- work from outside in, e.g.

1 10 2 9 3 8 4 7 5 6 , or might do as amy showed above- both feet starting on the left, moving to the right. It just is up to how you feel comfortable.  Bonnie Inouye called this dancing on the loom, and if you can get a rhythm going, it definitely feels that way.  

 

Thu, 07/09/2009 - 15:46

naturalfibres (not verified)

I have a 4-shaft, 6-treadle counterbalance loom and I rarely change my tie-up, so it's usually:

going from left to right,1-3, 1, 2, 3, 4, 2-4

Mon, 08/31/2009 - 21:18

lkautio (not verified)

Balancing the treadling between your feet is a good idea in terms of repetitive motion stress, but there are a lot of ways to do that.  I'm usually weaving block weaves, often laces.  I have a sort-of walking order, depending on the structure.  The tabbies (and separate tie-downs for a tied weave) are on my left foot and patterns on my right.  For huck that gives you a little more work with the left (LRLRL, LRLRL etc.), but it makes sense to me because there is less chance of hitting the wrong treadle.  With twills I am more apt to keep the treadles in the original order and do a group with the left foot, then a group with the right (LLLL,RRRR, etc.).  It doesn't make a lot of difference with simple (straight or point) twills, but when you get long patterns with 200-1000 thread repeats (or no repeats), which I prefer, it is a lot easier to keep track of where you are and need to go.

On a 4S loom I just go for direct tie :-)

Sun, 06/14/2009 - 02:38

Lodi_Weaver (not verified)

 I just alternate the side of the loom that I tie-up on.  So for my current project, which uses 8 treadles, I have 1-3-5-7 on the left side, and 8-6-4-2 on the other.

Because of the sequence I'm currently using, I just kept them in "order".  There are times when I tie up so I can just treadle from outside to inside, alternating sides as I do it.  Not every sequence works well for that though.

I hope that make sense.

 

Sun, 06/14/2009 - 04:58

laurafry

Depends on the weave structure.  The tie up for a Bronson Lace is  vastly different than that for a waffle weave or twill. 

The important thing to my mind, is that the tie up makes sense to you in order to reduce treadling sequence errors.

Cheers,

 

Laura

Tue, 06/16/2009 - 14:42

amyfibre (not verified)

I prefer to set up my treadles in a "walking order" for the structure I'm weaving....ie. left, right, left, right, left right.  Not always possible, but that's my ideal.

The most useful tool that I have found for achieving this is the shaft shuffling functionality in Fiberworks PCW (for newbies, that's the weaving software that I use).

I design the draft with visually logical treadling, but before I print out the tie-up/treadling and go to the loom, I rearrange the treadles.

For example, if it's a straight treadling on 10 treadles, I rearrange from:

1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10

to

1  6  2  7  3  8  4  9  2  10

or, as in the case of the summer & winter I am weaving right now:

1  2  for tabby

5 - 10 for pattern

nothing on 3 4

Sometimes it's a bit tricky to figure out what's the most efficient (and logical) way to rearrange....then I start by sitting at the loom and scratching some notes on what "feels" right, but then I eventually go back to the computer and rearrange the treadles in the draft to make sure I get the tie-up right.

Hope this makes sense.

Thu, 06/18/2009 - 02:10

Cynthia

Oh, I like the idea of designing it one way and then rearranging for practical treadling.  Haven't tried any software yet, though.

Thu, 06/18/2009 - 03:50

hlf (not verified)

I admit, I'm scared of trying anything that isn't a straight 1-10, left to right!  I haven't been weaving long enough to have encountered efficiency challenges.  But perhaps on my next project...

Mon, 07/06/2009 - 23:57

rosearbor (not verified)

 I'm with amyfibre - I really like walking treadlings.  Sometimes I will mix it up- work from outside in, e.g.

1 10 2 9 3 8 4 7 5 6 , or might do as amy showed above- both feet starting on the left, moving to the right. It just is up to how you feel comfortable.  Bonnie Inouye called this dancing on the loom, and if you can get a rhythm going, it definitely feels that way.  

 

Thu, 07/09/2009 - 15:46

naturalfibres (not verified)

I have a 4-shaft, 6-treadle counterbalance loom and I rarely change my tie-up, so it's usually:

going from left to right,1-3, 1, 2, 3, 4, 2-4

Mon, 08/31/2009 - 21:18

lkautio (not verified)

Balancing the treadling between your feet is a good idea in terms of repetitive motion stress, but there are a lot of ways to do that.  I'm usually weaving block weaves, often laces.  I have a sort-of walking order, depending on the structure.  The tabbies (and separate tie-downs for a tied weave) are on my left foot and patterns on my right.  For huck that gives you a little more work with the left (LRLRL, LRLRL etc.), but it makes sense to me because there is less chance of hitting the wrong treadle.  With twills I am more apt to keep the treadles in the original order and do a group with the left foot, then a group with the right (LLLL,RRRR, etc.).  It doesn't make a lot of difference with simple (straight or point) twills, but when you get long patterns with 200-1000 thread repeats (or no repeats), which I prefer, it is a lot easier to keep track of where you are and need to go.

On a 4S loom I just go for direct tie :-)