Hi all, I'm getting ready to go to the Color & Weave workshop and I'm just curious how all of you transport looms to workshops.  I have a 22" Harrisville that stands about 43" tall.  My first workshop was only a few minutes from the house so I felt very comfortable putting the loom in the back of an open truck (it was a clear day).  I think I'm going to do the same thing for this latest workshop even though the trip will be much farther because my other choice is to put the loom on its side in the back of my SUV.  Perfectly doable, with help from 1 or 2 folks, but I'm concerned about my already warped fiber getting mudgered about.  So I'm interested to hear from you on how you tackle this situation and would be curious to know what type of loom you're talking about if you do answer.  Thanks!

Comments

Sat, 02/01/2014 - 13:22

sequel (not verified)

Even when I am moving the folded Harrisville upright, I tie the shafts to the lower castle crosspiece and to each of the castle uprights.  Then I tie the front, back beams and beater together as well.  It may also help to tighten the warp once it is folded (remember to loosen before unfolding) and maybe run a length of painter's tape across the warp to stick it to the back beam and to the breast beam. 

Sat, 02/01/2014 - 13:50

Michael White

a new style 22" Harrisville loom is a problem. Back ground; for over 35 years we have moved this type of loom for shows, demo and students for their use at home without any problems. In the back of cars, trucks upright and laying down.  The new ones have open hooks on the heddles frames and the beater sits on a pin. Yes I said sits on this pin. I couple of years ago I purchase a couple of the new style 22/4 looms. I didn't pay any attenion untill I got a call from one of Cheryl's students crying that she had "broke" the loom. Some of the heddle frames were off and the beater was also loose.

The fix close up all the hooks, when moving tie down the beater (in the end I put a metal plate on the bottom of the beater legs which was moveable) Like the reply above tie everything down. I would not use any tape at all.

Michael

 

Sat, 02/01/2014 - 14:21

sequel (not verified)

Hopefully tying the heddle frames tightly to the lower crosspiece will put enough tension of the frames to keep them on the hooks.  The suggestion about the tape was in reference to her concerns about the warp moving about.  It's been my experience that as long as you don't use sticks to pack the warp beam, the warp straightens itself out when to open the loom.  I personally don't use the tape.

Sat, 02/01/2014 - 16:34

sally orgren

Some of my looms for workshops came with velcro lashing.

These bands consists of the long fuzzy part of the velcro, with the scratchy part just near the end (3" worth), so I can wrap it around a group of shafts (or whatever), and stick the velcro to itself along the way, where needed, so it is snug for transport.

Sun, 02/02/2014 - 20:23

NRVweaver

Well, took the loom to the workshop upright in open truck and that went okay, easy to get into the truck, but had put a blanket over it for protection and that was not fun.  I tried to stay under 45 mph to keep it from coming off and it didn't but it did start flapping toward the end.  Everything was intact except my nerves.  Took it home in the SUV laid on it's "front" after folding up of course.  I was told about the heddle hooks during the workshop - I think what you're talking about Michael, so I wrapped those and they stayed put.  I like the idea of painter's tape to keep the warp in place somewhat although mine didn't suffer from the moving about that it did.  Also like that idea of velcro straps of some sort.  I had done some bungee cording in some places and so everything did work out okay, but if I do this anymore I will use some of all your ideas.  One thing I did have an issue with on both trips is movement of my reed in the beater bar.  I don't ever seem to get it completely tight in there, don't know if that's by design or the nature of this loom, and it's not a problem when weaving, but moving the loom about dislodged it some, thus pulling the warp out of alignment.  So I think I will try to put something in the beater bar to hold the reed in place.  Thanks all for your responses!

Tue, 02/04/2014 - 14:14

pattracy (not verified)

"Portability," like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder (or the shoulders, elbows, and nerves of the loom owner).  I'm not a Harrisville fan, for a number of reasons, but one reason I do like Schacht looms is that they are built very solidly and seem to transport well. (I use the Wolf Pup for workshops, which is about my weight/size limit for wrangling a loom into and out of a car, but my Baby Wolf is the workhorse at home.)  To help me ease the Pup into and out of my SUV, I loosely wrap the top with a piece of cotton duck, and that helps it slide. (Carolyn Moore uses a piece of plywood to slide her Baby Wolf into and out of her Toyota Highlander -- I'm going to think about adopting that technique.)  I wouldn't worry about messing up the warp too much -- it should usually straighten out pretty well.   About getting the reed tight:  modern reeds seem to have thicker frames at top and bottom than the old ones did, and those are a bit too thick for the grooves for some looms.  Someone with a router could make the grooves bigger for you, but don't make them too big, because a loose reed can be annoying.

Thu, 02/06/2014 - 13:26

mneligh

While my main loom (Macomber) does not travel, I use a Baby Wolf for workshops.  Schacht said to lay it flat, with the cloth side down.  I then looked up measurements of all vehicles with compartments in which that could happen, and test drove them them.  Liking the Subaru best,  I borrowed the dealer's personal car (not a demo), drove it to my farm, loaded and unloaded the loom, and plunked my money down.  I use blankets for my tilt-and-drag loading procedure.  Since that time (2011), more Subarus have appeared in the lot at guild meetings, unfortunately some in the same color.

When I've had to transport my Macomber, all but once it was moved by professional movers.  That time, we waited for a sunny day and used the back of a pickup truck.  We tied the frames and the beater.  It was not warped, and we did not cover it.  I also secured it with heavy rope to the sides of the truck so it wouldn't slide around or turn over.  All went well, but it's not something I plan to do again, ever.  

Fri, 02/07/2014 - 02:05

sally orgren

We move keyboards, amps, and stands, too!

Also, many of my guild mates who own Baby Wolfs have Toyota Prius.

Fri, 02/07/2014 - 04:46

Vennui (not verified)

I take a 22 " 4 harness foldable loom to farmer's market every week. I have a Montana . I pop it into the back and lean it against the seats. She rides well and I can unload it by myself. I don't seem to have trouble with tension and it sometimes takes a couple weeks to use up the warp.
Sat, 02/08/2014 - 01:28

ReedGuy

I own a RAV4, I've hauled lumber inside 8'-10' long, furniture inside at times and stuffed full of camping gear at times. And have slept inside most of the summer when in the bush. :D

Sun, 02/09/2014 - 18:36

trkeyfrm

i built the smaller loom to have it fit through a doorway,  was a happy accident that it fits perfect in the minivan.

Sun, 02/09/2014 - 23:11

Michael White

A 48/4 Macomber in an S10 Pick up.

 

Tue, 02/20/2024 - 21:39

prisrice

Looking for ideas about how to transport a wolf pup loom up and down several steps so I can take it to workshops. Thanks!

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