I would like to have a tension box and rail that could be used on a Cranbrook as well as an old Union Custom Loom we are renovating.  I have never done sectional warping, but I can learn.  However, to get a box and a rail for the Cranbrook cost over $500...not to mention the electric winder and counter which is another several hundred.  Anyone have any ideas that won't break the bank?  Also, I've only seen videos on using a tension box, etc. for sectional warping so it's hard to imagine how the rail for moving the tension box hooks to the loom.  Do you really need a rail?  Can't you just move it by hand or something?  Certainly, they did not have electric winders and counters a 100 years ago.

Thanks, Jane

Comments

Badfaerie (not verified)

I don't know anything about Cranbrooks and/or Union looms so I can't give specifics to your looms, but maybe I can give you a few of my insights.

I have a LeClerc tension box w/ a counter that I used on my Meco table loom w/ a stand, all of which I picked up used. These tension boxes are supposed to work on almost all looms. You attach it to the back beam and line it up with the sections on the warp beam.  It works for me with a few considerations... the back beam on my loom is a little narrow so I had to use spacers to get it to clamp on securely. Also there's almost no room between the section dividers and the back beam so I use a 1/2" square dowel on top ob the back beam to raise the tension box up enough for the dividers to clear the bottom of the box.

I comment on these things not because I think you will have the same issues, but to point out that a little thought and you can overcome some "not quite rights".

As for the electric winder, I have a manual bobbon winder that I use for everything. I use masking tape on it to build up the spindle for spools that have larger holes.

The key piece of equipment is the yardage counter. I transfer mine between my tension box for winding the warp beam and my spool rack for winding spools. However, you can estimate the amount you are winding onto the beam by counting the number of revolutions and multiplying that by the beam circumference. You can also buy/make other standalone yardage counters from everything from fishing line counters to those stick/wheel counters you get at Harbor Freight.

Finally, if you are very industrious, and since this is the home made equipment forum, you can consider making your own tension box to fit your looms. You can get the comes around $6 online, the rest is just a bit of wood, 1" dowels and a few screws. I didn't realize how non-mysterious tension boxes were until I got and worked with mine. Ofcourse, at the time the whole idea of sectional warping was mysterious and complicated. Now it's my favorite way to warp, so quick and easy!

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hello Jane, sounds like you are jumping in with both feet, Great! Go to " The weavers corner. com, they show the entire process of sectional warping a Union loom. Conventional tension box's are often offered on ebay, and can be purchased at a good price. Also at e-bay, a fellow is building, and selling a well built simple bobbin winder for $125 which is considerably less than the large loom companies. Look under "Electric Bobbin Winder". A fishing line counter can be purchased at Amazon for under $15 dollars. Any standard tension box will fit the back beam of both of your looms, as the clamps are adjustable and will easily slide along the rail.I'm not sure if you are saying that you need a sectional warp beam for your Cranbrook, however you may be able to modify your beam by building four frames with 3/8" hardwood dowels spaced at 2" as I have done on my Marquardsen loom. You will also need a spool rack. If you are handy this can also be built at home. I recommend using Google, type in the item you want to study, like " Loom Tension Box", then click " Images". This method will help you understand the way things are constructed, and also allow you to see if you feel you have the tools, and skills to build them. Remember things need only to work well, they don't have to be works works of art. I hope this has helped a bit, perhaps other members have more to add, and yes there are hand bobbin/ spool winders, but what a task it would be to wind, say 48 of them! Regards, Frank.

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hello again Jane, as I have mentioned, you will also need a spool rack for  sectional warping. Go to the weaving blog " Weaver in Paradise", click on the item "Tools", and there you will see a very nice home built spool rack every bit as good as the costly store bought ones. Regards, Frank.

Badfaerie (not verified)

I agree that a spool rack is easy and straight forward to make. I also was able to pick one up for a song by watching craigslist, here, ravelry and kbbspin.org. It was cheaper than buying the materials.

The thing I found hardest to come up with a good home-made solution for is the spools themselves. I have picked up a rag tag mish- mash by watching ebay. I had thoughts of 1/4" pvc pipe with abs plastic end caps only because I have access to scrap abs plastic for free, but I never got to the point of a good and inexpensive plan for spools. Anyone else have a solution? $1.80 to $2.50 ea gets expansive when you are looking at 60-100. ( I have an unhealthy attraction to 60/2 and 120/2 silk )

TheLoominary (not verified)

Yep, I feel your pain! After designing and building a nice spool rack I was then faced with an efficient way to make spools. I tried all manor of ways to make good spools from plastic tube, plastic lids,card board, etc, and found I either didn't like the quality, or the fact that it would take as long to make them as it did the rack! I gave in and spent some of the savings of the rack project to purchase 4" spools/ with 3" ends at Halcyon yarn for $1.25 each. Good vendor. However, since then I have found cardboard spools in various widths (4" is standard) for .54 cents each. They are sold in a bag of 50.They do however have 8" ends and will need to be trimmed to the standard 3". The time spent trimming is well worth the savings! They state some assembly nessorary, so that tells me the ends are free to trim, popping them in after. The site is: cheeptrims.com,then type in "spools". Wish I had found them before! Regards, Frank

Badfaerie (not verified)

Those are FABULOUS!  I wish I had found them too! I'm good for now on spools, but if I decide to upgrade to a matching set, that's definately the way I'll go.  I shouldn't be hard at all to trim the ends.