I have a project which calls for 60 epi. I've done this project before using a 15-dent reed, threading 4 per slot. But that reed is in use on another loom and I'm thinking I can get by using a 10-dent instead. That would mean threading at 6 per slot. I've never threaded that many per slot and am wondering if I might encounter unforseen issues. The yarn is 8/2 Tencel (really set at 30 epi, but it's a double-weave). Any suggestions?

Comments

Thu, 01/15/2015 - 06:37

laurafry

Should be k. That's only three per dent per layer. Cheers Laura
Thu, 01/15/2015 - 10:03

ReedGuy

I've done up to 4 with overlock thread, and planned on doing 5 for 80 epi in a 16 dent reed. I think in my case that polyester is slippery enough that the marks just wash away as the threads slip into position.

I think you made a wise choice with the 10 dent reed for that size yarn and the dent threading your doing. Sometimes there is just too much wire and not enough free space for the yarn used. :) I know 3 per dent of 8/2 in a 16 dent reed does some rubbing that would worry any weaver. I recently used 3 per dent in a 16 with 20/2 cotton for face cloths. Luxury is all I can say. :)

Thu, 01/15/2015 - 14:53

Sara von Tresckow

Should work, but since Tencel is slippery and possibly sticky in that density, you'll want to weave carefully and make sure that when the underside is woven that all threads needed to rise have actually risen.

Very even tension on the warp will be a big plus. Reed marks shouldn't be an issue after wet finishing.

Thu, 01/15/2015 - 16:40

Bonnie Inouye (not verified)

Are you weaving double width? I think 60 epi is good and 6 per dent would not be a problem. Each layer has 3 per dent.

Are you weaving a block pattern with two layers of plain weave exchanging places neatly along vertical or horizontal lines? Should be fine.

Are you weaving double weave with layers exchanging along diagonal and/or curving lines? I have woven a lot of four-color double weave with curves and diagonals and have found that I do not need as close a sett as I would with the options above. The reason is that there is a small area along the transition (where the layers exchange) which is integrated into a single layer. This part of the cloth does not pack together as much as areas of two separate layers. The same applies to classic double weave (dark crossing dark, light crossing light) with curves and diagonals. You can look at the amount of transition in a given draft and adjust the sett accordingly.

Bonnie Inouye

Thu, 01/15/2015 - 16:47

Weavin Steven

Yes, it's a block pattern, no curving lines. 

It's going to be woven on a jack loom so I'll check for a clean shed. Usually I do this type of weave on a counterbalance and the shed is always very good. 

OK, sounds like it mostly shouldn't be an issue. Thanks everyone.

Thu, 01/15/2015 - 16:47

Weavin Steven

Yes, it's a block pattern, no curving lines. 

It's going to be woven on a jack loom so I'll check for a clean shed. Usually I do this type of weave on a counterbalance and the shed is always very good. 

OK, sounds like it mostly shouldn't be an issue. Thanks everyone.