I am sewing a 1800's day dress for a friend and sateen was suggested for the lining.  I washed and dried it.  I was about to iron it when I realized I don't know if it's a synthetic or what.  I looked it up and it's a cotton done in in a santeen weave.  So what is sateen weave?

Thanks!

Comments

Fri, 10/28/2011 - 22:20

endorph

uses a four over one under structure which places most of the thread on the top of the fabric and is usually cotton, although now rayon is also used. Satin uses a similar structure but is usually silk, etc.
Fri, 10/28/2011 - 22:40

laurafry

Well, most of the weft will be on the surface on one face, most of the warp will be on the surface on the other face.....draft below shows warp face up - to have weft on the face, tie up the white squares.  

cheers,

Laura

Sun, 10/30/2011 - 15:55

kerstinfroberg

So is there a difference (in English) between satin and sateen? (In Sweden we have warp-satin and weft-satin, if we want to distinguish)

Sun, 10/30/2011 - 19:23

Eva (not verified)

I looked it up in Irene Emery's book, "The Primary Structures of Fabrics." There's a long explanation about the uses of the terms satin, sateen and satinet.  In general, satin would be the term associated with the warp-float face of the satin structure and sateen with the weft-float face.  But it goes on to say that sometimes these terms are used ambiguously and it's clearer if you say warp-satin or weft-satin to describe the orientation of the structure.  It also says that the term satin is often associated with silk, linen or rayon and sateen with cotton and so sateen is proably most useful as a fabric name rather than a weave structure. 

Eva Stossel :) 

Sun, 10/30/2011 - 21:32

debmcclintock

Don't forget that the marketing people are between the weavers and the consumers even in times past. So the cloth might be marketed separately from the manufactured terms. Throw in different countries & cultures and you have all kinds of snakepits. Don't try to apply one term to a structure. Consumers, marketers, manufacturers and museum textile curators all have their own terminology.
Sun, 10/30/2011 - 21:33

debmcclintock

Don't forget that the marketing people are between the weavers and the consumers even in times past. So the cloth might be marketed separately from the manufactured terms. Throw in different countries & cultures and you have all kinds of snakepits. Don't try to apply one term to a structure. Consumers, marketers, manufacturers and museum textile curators all have their own terminology.
Mon, 10/31/2011 - 15:48

sewderf

That's marketing for you. Thanks for all the info. Someone suggested a weave structure book a while back, I think I will have to look into getting it because I find structure fascinating.
Mon, 10/31/2011 - 16:15

laurafry

There are a number of books that can give more information.

Dorothy Burnham, Irene Emory and Madelyn van der Hoogt have all written books that you might find helpful and which should be fairly readily available.  You might also look for Grozicki's "Watson's" books.  I think there are two.  You might have to look a bit harder for those.

cheers,

Laura

Tue, 11/01/2011 - 00:22

tien (not verified)

And don't forget "Mastering Weave Structures" by Sharon Alderman!

Tue, 11/01/2011 - 14:06

ruthmacgregor (not verified)

The books by William Watson are available for download on handweaving.net -- here is the page that links to all his documents (one article and two books, one of which is listed twice).

This is nice -- I hadn't heard of his two books before, and now I have something new (er, old) to explore this winter.  Thanks!

Ruth

Tue, 11/01/2011 - 16:11

laurafry

The Watson's are good because they were written for the textile industry, but at a time when the technology wasn't so far advanced that handweavers can't understand them.  :)  There are others, but they are in my library downstairs and probably not as common as the Watson's.

cheers,

Laura