I consider this rebozo a sample  for furtue ikat rebozos.  Warp ikat is most dramatic in a warp faced weave structure.Warp faced cloth can be stiff and strong. Yet I want the rebozo to drape. The Mexican ones are either silk or "articela" which I believe to be some kind of rayon. So I am going to try 8/2 Tencel, an enviromentallly sound rayon made in a closed loop system.   Tencel has liquid drape and dyes beautifully and brillantly.

Comments

Wed, 10/05/2011 - 18:21

Karren K. Brito

I got 30 ends per inch when I wrapped the Tencel yarn.Now because I want a warp faced structure, each shed will need 30 epi to cover the weft completely so my sett will be 60epi.  The structure is plain weave.  So for 30" wide rebozo I will need 1800 ends.  There is very little take up in the width since the warps are all ready touching.

Here is some general info about 8/2 Tencel:

 

227g or ½ lb tube           1680yd/tube

3360yd/lb

Wraps/inch: 30
Knit gauge: Lace
balanced tabby sett: 15-22 epi   

 twill sett: 22-30 epi

 

 

Tencel is the trade name for 100% Lyocell, a type of rayon.  It is a cellulosic fiber derived from wood pulp from sustainable forests and processed into a fiber with minimal environmental impact. It is the strongest cellulosic fiber known, it is strong even wet. It is breathable and moisture absorbent.

 

Tencel is a smooth yarn with a subtle sheen imparting to your cloth a wonderful luster, fluid drape and luscious hand. Finishing can be done in the washing machine and dryer, or as appropriate for the textile. A hard press with high heat and steam can enhance the suppleness and sheen.  It takes fiber reactive dyes beautifully.

 

8/2 Tencel is the same size as 8/2 cotton and can combined or substituted for it.

 



 

 

Wed, 10/05/2011 - 15:25

bolivian warmi

I use crochet cotton in all my warp-faced pieces and I haven't found the wraps per inch information helpful for determining the number of ends I need for a certain width. For example, the thread I most often use wraps 35-37 times to the inch on a ruler. However, I count 30 threads to the inch on my woven fabric (60 ends). Maybe I don't wrap properly??

A heavier yarn I use wraps 13 times to the inch (thicker yarn which is probably easier to wrap on the ruler accurately), yet 20 ends give me an inch of woven fabric.

I have many woven samples which I use to calculate the ends I need for a project. They give me much more reliable information.

Wed, 10/05/2011 - 19:07

Karren K. Brito

That is why I'm doing this sample, I don't have any experience with this Tencel.

Laverne, isn't what you use sometimes an 8/2 cotton?  This is similar in grist  to the 8/2 cotton so 60epi seeems like a good place to start.  The big difference is the slipperyness of the Tencel.

I've gotten pretty good indications of the sett from wrapping and I have to start somewhere.  At the worst, I will have to resley it to correct the sett.

Actually what concerns me the most is the weight of the warp; 1800 ends x4yds=7600 yds and at 3360 yds/lb the warp itself will weigh over 2lbs!  That seems weighty to me.

Wed, 10/05/2011 - 18:40

laurafry

Just wondering what you are planning on using for your weft, Karren?

cheers,

Laura

Fri, 10/07/2011 - 18:09

bolivian warmi

 You are right, you have to start somewhere and the wpi gives you that starting point so you can sample.

It will be interesting to see how it goes with the tencel. A Weavolution friend sent me some tencel from Denmark and I haven't been game to use it in a big project yet...just one narrow supp warp band so far in which it looks and feels beautiful!

Wed, 10/05/2011 - 18:48

bolivian warmi

Now I know why the posts (at least mine) duplicate. I hit SAVE and a window opened with another SAVE tab and instead of waiting for the message to save, I hit save again.

Thu, 10/06/2011 - 19:29

Karren K. Brito

Since I plan on making more rebozos, ikat ones, they will be very colorful, so this one will be black and white. I have a spool of light silver, that is truely a neutral grey, that I could add if I need to.

I'm going to use this rebozo as inspiration:

What I see are just two colors with a central panel with paired warp floats in a pick-up design.  This technique is familiar to me so I will use it. No words, I'm not fond of words in artwork. An no macrame, something I'm not experienced with. 

So B&W with silver, maybe, central pick -up panel, warp stripes.  Now off to wrap stripes.

Fri, 10/07/2011 - 17:28

Karren K. Brito

The left side would be the outer edge and the right side would butt up to the central panel for pick up then mirror this wrapping on the other side. 

I was pleasantly suprised by how elegant the B&W look.  I like the variety in the narrow stripes so I think I will use all of them but in a different order; the blacker ones on the outside near the black border.

Note: When I do a wrapping for a warp faced textile (sett here at 60epi) I only wrap half the warp or just one shed. Wrapping all warps distorts the proportion.  The narrow black band near the black border will have alternating B&W ends just like the central pick-up panel and will have alternating B&W bars when woven instead of being solid black as it appears here.

Next step is write out a warping sequence, carefully.  Then double check it before starting to warp.