Hi all,

Am hoping that someone can help me. I have a 4 shaft double weave blanket on my loom that is about 18 inches from being finished. The bottom layer is about 5 to 6 picks taller than the top layer. Is there any way that I can correct this or should I just keep going. The blanket is to be an Xmas present for my son-inlaw.

Thanks

Jill

Comments

Thu, 12/10/2015 - 22:57

laurafry

Sometimes it is just that the layers will 'creep' differently as they go around the breast beam.  I usually pin the two layers together so that they stay in sync with each other.  This is usually more noticable on thicker yarns than thinner ones...worth a try?

cheers,

Laura

Thu, 12/10/2015 - 23:29

jillie63

Thanks Laura,

I am working with thicker yarns so will give it a try.

Fri, 12/11/2015 - 00:33

Joanne Hall

The lower beater will beat at an angle if you advance your warp too far.  This will beat harder on the top layer.  Try weaving closer to the beater and advancing the warp more frequently.

Joanne

Sun, 12/13/2015 - 02:31

Chris B

Is it possible the blanket is woven with a different yarn for weft than warp?  If so, would that influence the "shift?"

I ask because I am talking with a spinning mill about producing a blanket yarn from a large unit of blanket-grade wool I have.  Not having woven blankets and not being a hand spinner, I would like to know if those of you who are experienced blanket weavers typically use the same yarn for warp and weft, or if you use a warp which is stronger in order to stand up to tension and abrasion in the weaving - esp. for long warps?  Should the warp be more than a single ply?  Should it be worsted-spun instead of woolen-spun?  How many twists per inch for each warp and weft yarns for blanket weaving?  Have you specifications you can lend for wool yarns used to weave blankets, both summer-weight and winter-weight?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Chris

Sun, 12/13/2015 - 03:47

Joanne Hall

Most hand weavers use the same yarn for both warp and weft when weaving blankets.  It can be single ply or two ply and woolen spun will full nicely. 

However, there are also blankets woven with a very fine cotton warp, 24/2 or 30/2 and a fine single ply wool, either weft faced or nearly weft faced.  These make very nice thinner blankets.

Joanne

Sun, 12/13/2015 - 16:26

Sara von Tresckow

The problem with doublewidth fabric layers shifting is one of simple physics. Laura's suggestion is about the best I've heard of.

Think of the breast and cloth beams on a loom. As the two layers round the corners of these beams, the upper(outer) layer travels ever so slightly more than the lower(inner). The issue with uneven layer "creep" is inherent in trying to weave a fairly thick fabric as a doubled piece.

I'm pretty sure that this is why double wide double weave was not standard practice centuries ago when broadcloth was needed. The illustrations from the Middle Ages on show wide looms, first with two weavers (who changed sides frequently to even the beat) and later a fly shuttle.

Also, it is not necessary to use the same thread in warp and weft for a blanket - for instance, a 2-ply warp with a fluffier singles as weft makes for a soft warm blankie.

Mon, 12/14/2015 - 10:57

ReedGuy

I hope you find something that works for yor project. :)

 

I have draft here that I made up myself. I beat the weft firmly and it's almost a doubleweave as in thickness. The warp is almost all hidden on both sides. And it is fulled a lot to. It's 2-ply wool both warp and weft, too heavy and dense for a blanket. But it's nice on the back of the recliner. I used up some leftover skeins from other projects. I mention sometimes that one could make a winter coat from it, it won't let cold wind through it for sure. :)