Another repair, on that same Harris loom :

The fabric beam crank has been repaired - the shaft had split and has been repaired with a metal sleeve and some pipe clips. It's a bit messy, though it worlks well enough.

If I repair it, I'd consider making nicer cranks. The original ones are a bit crude : the beam projects from the side of the loom as a 1" wooden bar, and has a long metal pin (3/8" diameter) through it as a handle. No suprise it broke really - all the torque applied to the pin is acting to spilt the wood.

So what's a nice way to finish this off ? I've seem pictures of looms with huge spoked wooden wheels - is that a good solution ? Or would a cranked handle be better ? Are there designs around for automatic tensioners ?

 

 

Comments

Sun, 12/11/2011 - 14:57

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi artag. I think we will need a bit more information on your loom to understand what is going on here. What type of loom, what make, and model, and most importantly some photo's.We will be better able to assist you then. Regards, Frank

Sun, 12/11/2011 - 16:04

artag

Here's the repaired crank. It's a bit ugly and looks set to gouge my hands. I could just replace the pipe clips with something a bit neater, but I'd like to know what would work best. I think a big wheel like the one on this pretty floor loom would be difficult unless I make a floor stand though.

http://weavolution.com/loom/swan-lake-floor-loom

Sun, 12/11/2011 - 16:48

kerstinfroberg

Remember that it has to fit in the available space, whatever you replace it with.

I have a table loom with this model crank, where the cross-piece is too long. This means I have either to place it on the edge of the table, or see to it that I don't have to leave the crank in those two positions... or, rather 4 positions, as both warp and cloth beam have the same just-a-little-too-long crosspieces. (AND they look like original pieces, too!)

Sun, 12/11/2011 - 16:49

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi artag, I now understand why the splitting into two threads. Using a wheel as opposed to the pin will definitely be an improvement. My guess is you will need to replace the split beam axle. Attachment of a wheel could be accomplished by squaring the end of the new axle which in turn will fit into a square hole in your wheel. The wheel could "shoulder out" just shy of flush and be held with a small lag or screw with a fender washer.Or if the axle is made to extend well beyond the wheel face it can be pegged or wedged. A simple disc with four 3/8" pegs as spokes will function very well and would be in keeping with your looms overall simple style. Hope this helps, Frank.