Hi everyone,

I have searched the site and haven't found the problem I have addressed so thougth I'd try posting for advice.  I am a beginning weaver, on my very first project, which is a set of 7 dishtowels 34" in length (unfinished).  I'm about 24 inches into the second towel, in 2/2 twill.  All was going well until I noticed that my fell line is uneven--and not the usual "smiley-face" curve, but a straight diagonal so that the left side is about a quarter of an inch ahead of the right.  This actually isn't easily seen--you have to pull the beater forward to notice it.  From my reading I am guessing that this is due to a drawing-in issue, although the side that is creeping towards the beater is the side that actually has less draw-in between the two.  On the first towel of the project, in plain weave, I had no problems at all, so I do not think it's due to overall tension, loom structure or beating issues (although, of course, any of these could be a possibility!).

I'd just like some advice on I should do here in mid-project.  Should I unweave to the point where the fell line is straight across again (ugh, and if this is advised, any hints on doing so with the least amount of tedium)?  Is there a "quick fix" adjustment I can do so that I can continue bravely on and deal with a crooked fabric at the end (which is OK with me as long as then I can continue without issue onto the next towel in the progression)?  Or, what I'm thinking now is, just weaving a little bit more so that I have enough fabric to have a 24"-length hemmed and finished towel, which is shorter than the intended length, but then at least I can put this behind me and return safely to plain weave and bravely weave on?  Even with option C, I'd like to know what caused this so I can avoid it in the future.

I would greatly appreciate any advice or help from this great community!

Comments

Mon, 06/24/2013 - 22:32

tommye scanlin

Check to see that something hasn't happened with the loom, like either the warp beam or breast beam slipping off a bracket, if it's a Macomber loom, for instance. Then, your thought of overall tension might be a factor. As you unroll from the warp beam possibly there is some tension change. Good luck in getting it back under control!. Tommye
Mon, 06/24/2013 - 22:39

laurafry

Such a problem isn't always easy to diagnose as Tommye mentions.

There are a number of issues that may be at play here.  A loom with an X frame might begin to 'fold up' on one side and cause such a problem.

A warp wound with warp packing that isn't sufficient in some way might also be the issue.  When you look at your warp beam, is the warp wound on in a smooth consistent cylinder or is the warp 'falling off' the warp packing on one side?

Excessive draw in on one side doesn't necessarily cause the fell line to go off on a diagonal - usually it 'smiles' and then warp threads start to break.  :(

Have you woven on this loom previously?  Is the beater 'square'?  I.e., does it fall against the loom front and back on its arc evenly or is it on an angle?  This is something that might not show up on a narrow warp, but becomes more apparent on a wider warp.

Some photos of the loom and the problem might help us in figuring out what might be happening.

Laura

Tue, 06/25/2013 - 01:10

Dena (not verified)

This sounds to me like a very ambitious first project.  I think it's fine to take on something ambitious at the beginning, but it's best to not expect perfection.  There are many issues that it could be, some mentioned above.  You may also not be grabbing the beater in the center, or you may have a beater that is adjustable and is set differently on the two sides.  I have some heavy duty production looms that I have woven thousands of scarves on without perfectly square beaters (don't tel anyone, ok??).  It is likely that a quarter of an inch difference in the fell line won't make much difference in the finished towel (especially if, in the spirit of a first project, you are not expecting it to be perfect).  Feel the tension across the width of the warp.  Does it feel the same from one side to the other?  If it does, my suggestion is to just keep going.  With more experience, you will be able to figure out if it's technique or equipment.  You could also accept having one or two less towels, or having some shorter than others and end this one and start the next one and see if the problem returns.  I am not seeing how it would be dependent on the weave structure. 

Beaters usually have some play in them and it's possible to gently beat one side differently from the other to gradually work out issues.  Also, if you have any kind of fringe between pieces, check under the loom that the fringe isn't flopping off the side of the cloth as it winds around the cloth beam.  Good luck!

Tue, 06/25/2013 - 01:35

Roguesparrow

Thanks to you all, Tommye, Laura, and Dena, for your thoughts.  I'm weaving on a vintage LeClerc Nilus, about 1956.  It does not fold, and is 4s/6t.  I have not woven on it before, but as I got through 34 inches of plain weave without any trouble, I was thinking that my problem is not likely to be the loom--although, of course, it's possible.  I figured it was much more likely to be operator inexperience.

Overall, I have patted the warp and all the threads feel to my hand to be pretty even in tension--even the selvedge threads.  I do think that I will make a shortie towel and continue on.  I found out while beaming the 7 1/2 yard warp that this is a bit ambitious for a new weaver on a rescue loom but...well, I'm adventurous, I guess.  Definitely no perfection expected, just experience and learning on something that may not be the best-looking final object, but is still of use!

Tue, 06/25/2013 - 02:22

laurafry

If nothing else you can cut off after you finish the towel you are on and re-tie, just in case it is a beaming/tension issue.

cheers,

Laura