sett suggestions

Can somebody save me a bunch of fiddling around with setts?  I have a bunch of wonderfully-tacky eyelash yarn I want to weave up as scarves (using it for weft, of course).  any suggestions as to setts and warp yarns?  I will go into the weaving shed in a bit and start fiddling around myself, but I have never used it myself.  The kids used some at art camp and their pieces came out with rather a stiff hand, so, since their looms were almost all 12 or 15 epi, I think I need to sett it at, maybe 10???  My warp options are wool, cotton or tencel.  Not wasting my silk on these.

thanks, Nancy C.


Posted on Thu, 11/19/2009 - 13:33

and, like I don't have enough already..the "Turks' at Paradise yarn seduced me into buying a pound of "red metallic"  Shoot...Xmas is almost here, right???

Posted on Thu, 11/19/2009 - 13:44

Those eyelash yarns knit up as sports yarns so a 10 or even an 8 dpi should work and keep it nice and fluid. I usually ply my eyelash yarn with a wool singles to give it a bit of body, which brings it up to about a worsted size yarn, then if you use wool as warp, it should hold the whole thing together once fulled. Just a few thoughts.

Posted on Thu, 11/19/2009 - 17:25

When you do that how fuzzy is the finish piece?  What I'm imagining is that you would lose some fuzziness between trapping some down whilst plying and then more being kept down in the fulling.  Or does it really stand up and out inspite of all that?  Terribly worded questions, I hope you understand what I'm trying to ask.  Liese

Posted on Thu, 11/19/2009 - 18:48

This is something I keep forgetting about - taking a yarn and plying it with something else.  Thanks for mentioning it.  I'm sure I have a yarn lying around somewhere in the piles that would be useful if I did this.  Unfortunately for me, I used my last eyelash yarn in a knitted scarf back when I was in a big move to get rid of some of my old knitting yarns.

Posted on Thu, 11/19/2009 - 19:50

Here is a scarf Cheryl wove with eyelash yarn used in the warp set at 6 epi. I washed two scarves this morning and they are hanging outside to dry. When dried they will be brushed.. All the yarns used are knitting yarn. beat with a very light touch so as not to pack down the warp. Total cost less then $4 for both. You can see other scarves done with knitting yarn below on this forum (weaving)


Posted on Thu, 11/19/2009 - 21:17

Some of the fuzz does get trapped, but you can give it a light brush and it comes back again. If you use a fine wool single to ply the lashes with, it can almost disappear once you have finished. this works for other fuzzy textured yarns too, so you can get all sorts of marvelous furry fabrics.

Posted on Thu, 11/19/2009 - 23:35

Are you using your own handspun this way?  What ypp for that single do you find appropriate?  Fabulous furry fabrics sounds like fun!  Especially if you are into alliteration <G>.  Liese

Posted on Fri, 11/20/2009 - 00:41

Yes, I have used my own handspun this way, Its useful for re-purposing those yarns you'd rather forget about, with yuck colours or the wrong texture, etc. I've also used it to to subtly change the colour of the fashion yarn or yarns I'm using, or unite a bunch of different colours. Its subtle because the lashes, ostrich or whatever yarns can pretty much hide the underlying wool. After that its a matter of experimenting to find out what works best, but thats half the fun! As for sett, you are looking at something like 7.5 ( the knitters loom is ideal for this) or 6, and because of the faux furry yarn, you can hide a multitude of sins beneath all that fuzz so you do not have to be too accurate either. Its for having fun with!

And if you want to get serious, you can create some wonderful combinations by using the yarns as warp and weft on their own.

Posted on Fri, 11/20/2009 - 14:22

Good looking scarf Michael,

The website is very nice and even with pictures it displays at a decent rate on my braindead terminal here at work.

Have a good day!

Posted on Fri, 11/20/2009 - 12:44

Francorios, thanks for the nice comments. For years we had to live (in the Occone National Forest in Georgia) with a 28.8kb dial-up connection. So I had to keep the picture size small so it would not take all day to upload. Now we have a 6ms DSL connection and I can upload larger pictures but I still am thinking about all the folks around the world with slow connections so I try an keep the loading time down.


Penfield, GA. USA

Posted on Fri, 11/20/2009 - 14:41

This is the last two scarves coming off the loom before tomorrow's show. The yarn used for the warp was Stanley Berroco Que Linda loop yarn, 95% irish wool, 5% nylon knitting yarn. set at 6 epi, 48 ends. The warp is Stanley Berroco brushed 100% irish wool knitting yarn. The scarves were washed in warm water w/mild soap, rinsed three times w/fabric softener in the final rinse and hung to dry. When dry the fringe will be trimed and the scraves brushed. Nancy I hope this answers some of your questions about using knitting yarn for weaving scarves. Michael



Posted on Sun, 11/29/2009 - 19:49

This is probably going off-topic a bit...

Even now my father is still using a 64kbps link... because he can use the same ISP in two physical locations... We are trying to motivate him to upgrade services but it hasn't happened yet.  And, I believe you are right.  We are fortunate in many places to have higher bandwidth, but it isn't available everywhere.  We need to keep in mind that those 3Meg photos that our digital cameras are taking these days can take a long time to download for these folks.  Sites like ebay can be incredibly painful for these users.  A 3Meg photo can take about 45 seconds to download on a dial-up link.  Think about how long this would take for a pageful of images.

On another note, I lived in Atlanta for 7 years, and one of our brief trips south was through the Okefenokie Swamp.  We really enjoyed the visit, and learned that swamps aren't necessarily the nasty dark places that our imagination thinks they are.  According to my google maps, it looks like the Occone National Forest is along I-20, and closer to Atlanta.  I don't think I ever had occasion to go there...


Posted on Wed, 12/02/2009 - 10:30

First I would like to say HI to every one anmd to apologise for going way of topic, but I have tried twice to start a new thread but didnt work so here I am.

I am thinking of move ing into rep weaving on my newly converted 12 shaft loom (thats another story) so I googled and what came up is "Rep Weaving and Beyond"by Joanne Tallarovic which will set me back about 80 Euros which is a bit expensive so I thought I would tap into your colective knollege and see if there is an alternative.  I'm looking forward to your replies w178

Posted on Wed, 12/02/2009 - 13:52

There is a book called RepWeaves by Laila Lundell (Eng version ISBN 9153411544) printed 1987. It is probably OOP, but both abebooks and bookfinder found several copies. The Swe edition is called Ripsvävar, ISBN 91-534-0961-2 (also probably OOP)
Hope this helps,
Kerstin (in Sweden)


Posted on Wed, 12/02/2009 - 19:28

Thanks for the quick responce.What would I like to kow, well as much as I can what would the sett be using 8/2 cotton for cushion covers or place mats and the tie-up and how to move from 4 shafts to 12so I need the basics which is what I would get from a book like the ones sugested by Kerstin-thank you-

 but as much info as I can get would be helpful before I start making a warp. so Thanks again w178

Posted on Thu, 12/03/2009 - 00:51

Hi w178,

It's nice to see your posts but I'd love to know your name and how you chose your user name. It's a very unique one on our site.

As for the warp, there was an entire issue of Handwoven on Rep weave in Sep/Oct '05 I think. I checked their index which is here and it appears there are several articles on Rep Weave (they refer to it as Warp Rep) in that issue. Might be easier to get your hands on that.

As for sett, I would suggest you try using the Resources here on Weavolution. There is the Sett calculator and the Weaving calculator both of which take sett into account in calculating a warp length for your project. The sett calcualtor is from Sharon Alderman's book, Mastering Weave Sturctures,  and both are a favorite of mine.

Claudia, Weavolution co-founder

Posted on Thu, 12/03/2009 - 00:59

Seeing as you brought up the sett calculator Claudia could I slip a quick question in here?.........I don't understand the ''intersection'' info and so don't know what to insert there. I have been inspired to try a diamond twill on my backstrap loom after the discussion in the RH group, a project that was posted recently and some other chat in the weaving forum and would like to make the calculation for sett. Can you help?


Posted on Thu, 12/03/2009 - 01:46

Thanks Claudia,

i went to the whole discussion and after reading it over and over and over, yes I think I have got it. I have punched in my numbers and have an answer. Let's see what happens. Bless Kurt for asking so many questions!



Posted on Thu, 12/03/2009 - 08:36

The sett calculator will not work for warp rep, which is a warp faced structure. It (the calculator) states that it is about a "balanced weave" (which I interpret as having the same number of ends and picks).
For warp length, rep weave has a higher take-up than a balanced weave.

- as a rule of thumb (or at least a starting point), a warp rep takes about double the number of ends than does a balanced plain weave. A rep rug can have as much as 25-30% warp take-up.

Posted on Thu, 12/03/2009 - 13:35

Thank you Kerstin. Next time, I need to read more carefully.

I am not experienced in warp faced structure. I have worked mostly with weft faced and balanced in my short weaving career.


Posted on Fri, 12/04/2009 - 17:32

Thanks for all the nice words about the web site.( which I built and maintain, you can teach an old dog new tricks) I will try and answer all your questions. W178 I just sent you a IM on a Handwoven I have for sale. The Oconee National Forest is broken into parts all over Georgia. We live in the part of ONF that is off I20 half way between Atlanta and Augusta. The back side of out ten acres is national forest and we have to drive through the forest to go anywere.  I will sent a picture of the view from Cheryl's studio. I brushed the scarves with a natural hair (boar bristle)  wooden hairbrush, Cheryl uses a thistle that she gets from her mother in Maine. You use just a light touch, you just want to hit the surface fibers and not move the weft threads. Sometimes with the eyelash yarn you just have to pick it out. Some of the knitting yarn used was purchased from a knitting mill outlet store in Pickens, SC. It closed in 1983?