i have used a warping board for years and wonder if a reel would be easier. my problem is that when i am making a wide warp i have to take the warp off after a certain number of inches wound, so that i don't overlap threads. then i start again, until i have wound enough threads to make the width i want. is this also so on a warping reel?

Comments

sandra.eberhar…

Depends on what you consider a wide warp and how well you can work with a lot of ends.  I have a very large reel and commonly wind warps of 500 ends in one bout without issue, more of fine threads.  A real is much, much faster, and in my opinion, easier to maintain constant tension.  Some people don't like working with bouts that large and prefer to break it down into smaller packages.  I've never had any problems with large single bout warps.  I usually wind warps of about 20 yards.

Joanne Hall

On the warping frame, you need to push the yarns back on the dowels and not worry about overlapping the ends. If your warp creeps out beyond 1 inch or maybe 2 inches on the dowels, your warp ends will be getting shorter. And on a reel, you put on a guide string and stay within an inch of that string to keep all the ends the same length. However, whether winding on a reel or a frame, divide your warp into a number of equal number bouts. Each bout should cover about 4 to 10 inches of warp, depending on whether it is linen or other non-stretchy thread, on the sett or on the bulk of the yarn. Even sized bouts will wind on the warp beam more evenly. Joanne PS I use a reel and I do not wind on a frame if I can avoid it.

Sara von Tresckow

I wound a short narrow warp on a board yesterday. YUCK. I began weaving with direct warping, then a reel and have never looked back. A well balanced warping reel is an essential weaving tool.

ReedGuy

And at the same time, a warping board was an essential tool to one weaver 170 years ago. I was recently introduced to a very old barn frame loom that was accompanied with a large warping frame. It appeared to have been nailed (cut square nails) to the inside studded wall of a shed or barn. The loom was large and heavy and on the original family farm stored in a shed. It was incomplete and in rough shape as no one has woven on a loom in the family ever since.  I never saw a warp beam like this had. Turned rollers around the circumference and sandwiched by 20" x 2" thick rounds, held together with irons. One heavy bugger. Had a steal rachet, but square notched, not saw toothed. And a lever that extended back to the weaver to release it. Counterbalance, and with an overhead beater like any Scandanavian loom with peg holes up top to adjust height. Top bar was missing. Mortise and tenon construction, but secured with hand forged irons and not dowels. The family was wondering if it was complete to be able to sell it. It wasn't and in very sad shape.