Hello all,

 I am new to the weaving and Weavolution. I am not at all certain this post is in the right group, so please, if I've erred, let me know.

We acquired our 36" HD 4S 4T loom in February. We've managed pretty well getting it dressed twice for 'cookie cutter' drafts with reasonably acceptable end-product results. The learning curve is huge and I'm enjoying the the entire process.

There is draft in the Handweaver's Pattern Directory  by Anne Dixon, pp 88-89, M and W threading: 2/2 twill, that I would like to weave. I attempted to attach a pic but I  using an IPad and couldn't seem to do so. (Maybe that's another teachable moment?) I understand the threading and treadling; however, I'm lacking confidence developing the draft for towels. Ideally, I would like them to be in the ball park of 16"-17" x 25"-27", using 8/2 cotton for both warp and weft. I have only a 12-dent reed, along with a reed table (sleying options).

Enter hive minds. Am I going for 24 EPI? Does that mean I need to strive for 24 PPI as well? That scares me. Should I use floating selvedge, or use extra warps on each edge? I've used floating selvedge on my most recent project (broken twill).

Here's where I'm really insecure, how do I obtain the width I'd like for the towels if the draft repeat is 30? At 24 EPI, that means each repeat is going to be 1 1/4", correct? Do I multiply 1 1/4" by x# to get near the width I'd like? 

I apologize for the lengthy post. It's taken me the better part of three days to muster the courage to ask for help. It would be so easy to just weave to work on another cookie cutter draft', but then I'd never get off that path, would I?

Thank you in advance,

deb

 

 

 

Comments

Wed, 04/05/2017 - 15:18

Sara von Tresckow

You need a good basic weaving book like Anne Field's "Learn to Weave" that contains much of the information you seek. Weaving takes time to learn and it is incremental - lots of incidental bits of knowledge feeding into a successful fabric. The epi/ppi thing is all over the map. If one analyzes textiles over history, the amount of "evenweave" - that is both sets of threads equal is very small. Today, if you go to a fabric store, the only cloth that will be truly even is evenweave for cross stitch - and the hand is a bit odd for towels or clothing. Most fabrics for clothing or household use are slightly warp "dominant" - 24/in. in the warp, 20-22/" in the weft. Twill lines are touted at 45 degrees, but sometimes another angle makes a lovely fabric with just the optics you are looking for. Fabrics can also be weft dominant, warp faced or weft faced - all have their uses. Weaving was always an apprenticed profession - and it took 3-5 years to learn. Enjoy the journey - there are not many shortcuts and the learning is incremental - that is, you will need to walk well before you can run. Enjoy,
Wed, 04/05/2017 - 16:33

Joanne Hall

Thesre are a number of towel kits on the Glimakra USA website which will be helpful for learning.  They are designed to be easy for beginners, but also have a choice of threadings.

That would be a good way to start.  It gives you the thread you need, the sett, the reed, etc.  Plus, there is a photo so that you know what it will look like.

As Sara said, many fabrics are more warp dominant.  Having a few more warps per inch than wefts per inch is also helpful, as it makes the weaving a little easier.

Joanne

Wed, 04/05/2017 - 20:34

Sue in VT

You've got great advice from Joanne and Sara. I began with kits so that my learning focused on so many other things... throwing the shuttle, getting neat selvedges...  Then proceed to a few patterns where you decide the color yarns but all the steps are already written for you. You'll know when you're ready to go completely solo, and by then, you'll have acquired many good skills and habits.  

Sat, 04/08/2017 - 05:58

sally orgren

Take the epi and multiply that number against the desired width of the towel to determine the number of warp ends.

Then divide the number of warp ends by the number in a pattern repeat (30) to determine how many repeats will be needed across the width of the towel.

If it does not divide evenly, you can elect to make the towel slightly wider, or add half of a the pattern repeat to one side, etc. to "balance".

For someone new to weaving, I give you credit for thinking about these things in advance, including estimating the size of a single pattern motif. Good luck!

Mon, 04/10/2017 - 15:05

deb C

Thank you Sally Orgren! Your information is what I was hoping those with more experience would impart on this weaving embryo.

Sometimes it helps just to say things 'out loud'. I am very familiar with charts, graphs and various visual aids, and some is just intuitive for me. Everyone learns in their own way, I'm no exception. I have a sig line that reads "if it can be taught, it can be learned."

Many, many thanks,

deb