That sinking feeling that you've finished threading and there are threads left!  Six!  I thought this would never happen because I thread, then recount before knotting, but it happened anyway.  So I went across all

466 threaded heddles, counting the threading pattern for this overshot draft.  I put colored string section by section to keep track of what I'd checked.  My error was in the center, on one of my 28 thread

repeats.  The center repeat was missing the six threads left over.  So, what I believe I must do is pull out the threaded heddles to the left (or right) of the bad repeat, fix it and rethread half.  Do you think that's right?  I've never had to rethread, so wanted to run this by you. My problem is that I warped front to back, and I believed I must have had too many threads on my warping board because I always double check my threaded heddles as I go.  Now I don't have yarns left.  But I think I could just eliminate one of the eight 28 thread center repeats.  It's a 20" wide runner so that would only change my width by a bit over an inch.

Does all this sound right to you?

Comments

Sun, 04/02/2017 - 18:52

Sara von Tresckow

If you leave your lease sticks in (assuming a one color warp) on a 20" piece, the center is only 10" away. You can take those 6 threads and move them from the edge to the center and make a cross there - and after adding 6 repair heddles, can thread them in pattern and continue weaving. The fact that those 6 threads angle over to the center behind the lease sticks won't make ANY difference until you get to the very end and can make adjustments to those 6 threads to lengthen them at the tieon rod. This is one BIG reason to leave the lease sticks in when weaving. I routinely wind a few extra threads on each warp leaving a few on each side and a few in the middle to use as needed during a project. They can also be used to repair broken warp threads without any knotting. Just keep the lease sticks then tied to your back beam until done. Threads can cross over quite a distance on the warp beam as long as the cross is in proper sequence - the thread only needs to be in the right order from the lease to the fell line.
Sun, 04/02/2017 - 19:33

Sue in VT

Thank you Sara, for your advice. But in warping front to back I never use lease sticks.  I work from the cross held in my left hand. I'm a little embarrassed to admit that even if I had used lease sticks, I can't wrap my brain around the procedure you supplied. I'm just not there yet. Despite the work involved in the plan I am thinking of attempting, it makes sense to where I'm at in my weaving. 

Sun, 04/02/2017 - 21:17

Sara von Tresckow

So make a lease - you treadle one tabby shed, insert stick behind the heddles. Then you treadle the other tabby and insert other stick. Tie sticks together. Voila!!! you have a cross and lease sticks inserted. If you stick with weaving, you will ultimately learn how important that lease is. EVERY loom type needs one - whether for floor loom, tapestry loom, yes even the simple looking Navajo looms have a least inserted with strings before they are ready to weave. "Front to back" is no excuse to ignore one of the most important aspects of weaving - keeping those warp ends in order using a lease cross. THEN, you take those extra threads and move them to the right place in the cross and put them around the lease sticks as stated in the first post. You'll only need to change 6 threads.
Sun, 04/02/2017 - 21:33

Sue in VT

But Sara, I think that ship has sailed because I wound onto the back beam WITHOUT the "extra" threads. They're sitting next to the loom now. I blew that opportunity by removing them before I wound on. 

Mon, 04/03/2017 - 00:54

Sara von Tresckow

Then stick them in the center on their own, through the lease sitcks*, thread them as needed and weight that little bundle with something that keeps them in line. If you have lease sticks inserted, they will also exert pressure on those extra threads. *At this point "lease sticks" can simply be two dowels inserted in your warp.
Mon, 04/03/2017 - 01:46

Sue in VT

Oh my goodness I think I can do this. I'm making some heddles and will try this tomorrow. So grateful for your help.  And your perseverance!

Mon, 04/03/2017 - 10:14

ReedGuy

Repair heddles are great. I usually make mine from Orvis fishing line. A little over the top, but it is much like texsolv, only finer, and strong, doesn't stretch. Can be kept as regular heddles if one desires. :) Good luck
Mon, 04/03/2017 - 11:57

Sue in VT

The added six threads on the repair heddles.....they have to go through the reed, but each dent already has three ends sleyed in it.  Would it make any difference in the finished piece if four ends happened in six dents and the rest three?

Mon, 04/03/2017 - 14:16

kerstinfroberg

I would say yes, it will show. Since you are adding 6 ends = 2 dents you could move the already sleyed ends 2 dents to the side, until you reach the new ends.
Mon, 04/03/2017 - 19:13

Sue in VT

What a day!  I laughed, I cried, I did it!  I feel great! I took all your advice on what to do.   I have six linen heddles and moved all the threads over two dents to allow the new ones their room.  The six threads are bundled and weighted behind the loom, and the lease sticks behind the heddles are keeping the newcomers in line with all the others.  THANK YOU SINCERELY Kerstinfroberg, Reed Guy and Sara.  I'm a solitary weaver up here, and Weavolution has been my lifeline to grow and learn.

Tue, 04/04/2017 - 14:12

sandra.eberhar…

The discussion about Front to Back vs. Back to Front is an old and active one, but I think you've just found another plus for Back to Front. If you had done BTF, the "extra" threads would be beamed on and could simply be threaded into the repair heddles. Weighting them behind the beam is doable, and I've done it before (major bad math), but it's a nuisance compared to having extra threads there to work with.
Tue, 04/04/2017 - 17:21

Sue in VT

If I had warped the loom BTF and then realized the extra threads belonged in the middle, would you thread the repairs in the middle with threads from the end?  Wouldn't they be diagonal behind the heddles?  Maybe I'm challenged perceptually but that's how I imagine it To look.  That's ok?

Tue, 04/04/2017 - 23:46

sandra.eberhar…

Yes, no problem. If I am putting a very wide warp, I add a couple extra threads in the middle to cover errors.
Wed, 04/05/2017 - 00:02

Sara von Tresckow

If the lease sticks remain in the warp, the repair threads CAN run diagonally - behind the lease sticks. The correctec threads run straight from the lease sticks to the heddles to the fell line.

And I often put extra threads on each side and the center just in case.