hello!

i am brand new to weaving.i have just finished my first rag rug,and I'm pretty happy with it.

here is my issue:

When I am dressing the loom my warp gets very tangled. It is not actually in knots, mind you,it just looks like a jumbled mess because the yarn is sticking together.

i can smooth it out while someone else winds it on the warping beam, but it takes a lot of time, and I'm sure this is avoidable.

my problem may be that I can't seem to get the chaining of the warp process right. I seem to lock it in all the time, so when it comes time to dress the loom I have to unchain the whole length. Could this be the problem.

if so, could anyone offer me a "chaining for dummies" explanation? Sometimes it works ,and sometimes it doesn't,but I don't know what I'm doing differently when my chain locks in.

thanks!

Comments

Thu, 11/26/2015 - 14:41

Nakia

Hi KKingston, I'm not an experienced weaver like many on this great forum are, but I do have a suggestion you might like to try if you are having trouble with your warp chains.

 

I normally don't use the chaining method as I find using kite sticks easier for me. Here is a link to Peggy Osterkamp's blog site where she explains how to use kite sticks as well as many other tips that may be of help along the way. http://peggyosterkamp.com/peggys-weaving-tips-kitestick-chaining-warps/ I have her DVD on warping from back to front that I learned from. And I have one of her books that is a great help. I really enjoy how easy she is to understand and follow along with on her videos.

 

Hope this helps you maybe a little. I can't really help you with actually using the chain method since I have used it very little. I'm sure someone with much more experience will come on here and give you the advice you need for that way or warping. :)

Thu, 11/26/2015 - 14:43

sandra.eberhar…

Unchaining the whole length before warping is deffinately part of the problem.  I know what you mean by "locking the chain", I have seen this.  But you don't have to unchain the warp.  You are just not unchaining it right.  You have to look at it and figure out how to undo the link you are working on to produce a loop sticking out of the previous loop. I used to secure the free end of the chain by tucking it in the last loop of the chain, and often had the "locked chain" problem that you have.  I no longer do that, so I don't have to figure out how to get the chain to run freely any more.  I just leave the free end hanging, and when I start to unchain, I just have to tug on it.  I have heard several people say that winding the warp on a board (kiteboard) is better and is something you may want to try.  I have tried it and didn't like it.  The other thing is constant tension.  When the warp is chained, the stickiness of the yarns tends to hold them together and keep them from sliding and tangling.  The minute they leave the chain, that is no longer so, so they must be under tension.  Tension is your best friend when warping.  I also produce a tight, fat chain instead of a floppy, loose one.  Also, make sure you have identified the start and end part of the chain.  You attache the finish end of the chain to the beam, not the start end.

Thu, 11/26/2015 - 18:00

KKingston16

i will certainly look at these ideas for my next warp

I have another question (or 50)

i am about to thread my heddles, but have noticed in two places where i have a double thread at the cross,in other words an extra thread before the next X. Obviously drinking wine and measuring warp don't mix!

Since this is for a rag rug,straight draw,tabby weave,do you think I should just leave them there, or should I not thread them through the heddles? I'm okay with imperfections at this point,since Im just learning, but in the future,when I might be more adventurous with patterns, I would like to know what to do.

thanks again!

 

Thu, 11/26/2015 - 18:01

Sara von Tresckow

Nothing has been said about choke ties on the warp. It is necessary to choke tie the warp tightly (on the board or mill) about every yard (even more often if a slippery or hard to handle material) before chaining. It this is not done, the warp is flopping around loosely and not getting any better while waiting to be wound on - the choke ties are yet another step to maintain that friend or all weavers - tension - on the warp threads.

Once you learn how to make those chain loops, it is like riding a bicycle - you are set for life on that one without any special methodology.

Fri, 11/27/2015 - 13:47

sally orgren

A few errors in the cross do not matter. Thread with confidence!