Hi, I'm relatively new to the world of weaving but am in love. I've warped my 48" Macomber B4D a half dozen times now and finally seem to not be making mistakes at each turn. Whew. That said, I've been warping her Back to Front since it seems with the ability to fold down that front beam that that's what was intended for her. However, this last time, I couldn't help but wonder if that was a naive assumption on my part.

Please, if anyone has a moment, could you explain which method you prefer and perhaps a bit on why. I'd so appreciate it. I got the DVD Warping Your Loom since it says it describes both, however upon watching it most of the time is spent describing F-to-B and then there's hasty "ok, do the opposite" quickie at the end to get you started on B-to-F. Thanks!

Comments

Tue, 09/08/2015 - 18:35

abarry

I have a strong preference for back to front. I think there is less strain on the warp threads and fewer steps. It also seems faster. I have been in workshops were those of us going back to front were clearly faster than front to back.

On the Macomber, I insert a strong bar at the top to raise all the heddles to an easy height for threading.

Ann

 

Tue, 09/08/2015 - 19:16

Jeanine Ertl

I'm trying to picture what you mean by "strong bar the top to raise all the heddles" because I always end up dreading this part of the process due to my back feeling bent over to reach them so am improvement on that would be lovely. Do you mean you rest them on a beam or the castle? Also, do you lower both the front beam and the beater or remove the beater? And what do you do with the peddles so they're not in your way? Thanks!

Tue, 09/08/2015 - 19:16

Jeanine Ertl

I'm trying to picture what you mean by "strong bar the top to raise all the heddles" because I always end up dreading this part of the process due to my back feeling bent over to reach them so am improvement on that would be lovely. Do you mean you rest them on a beam or the castle? Also, do you lower both the front beam and the beater or remove the beater? And what do you do with the peddles so they're not in your way? Thanks!

Tue, 09/08/2015 - 19:17

Jeanine Ertl

I'm trying to picture what you mean by "strong bar the top to raise all the heddles" because I always end up dreading this part of the process due to my back feeling bent over to reach them so am improvement on that would be lovely. Do you mean you rest them on a beam or the castle? Also, do you lower both the front beam and the beater or remove the beater? And what do you do with the peddles so they're not in your way? Thanks!

Tue, 09/08/2015 - 19:21

Jeanine Ertl

Arg. Sorry about that. The internet had a delay and I didn't realize it was re-sending. I can't figure out how to delete the repeated comments.

Tue, 09/08/2015 - 20:14

abarry

1) Take off the cloth beam so you can get closer to the heddles. 2) Remove the beater 3) Lay down the front beam or remove it.

This will give you much better access to the heddles.

When you raise a harness, the metal bar at the top of the castle pivots so there is a space between it and the castle. (the bar has chains on each end) Raise all of your harnesses - it can be done by hand by pressing on the bar and insert a very thick dowel or other implement that can hold up the harnesses. Whatever you insert needs to be wider than the castle. Even with a 16 harness loom, I only need to do this on one side.

Depending on the number of treadles and the configuration of your loom bench, you may be able to squeeze the legs between the treadles or find a chair that fits. You want to be as close to the heddles and comfortable.

Hope this helps.

Ann

 

Tue, 09/08/2015 - 20:35

dawne

Hi Jeanine,

I also have a new Macomber Loom (48" wide, 12 H). I warped this a few times BtoF, and once tried FtoB.  Like you, I have watched the Madelyn van der Hoogt warping video a few times.   I think for the Schacht loom, given that she can remove the backbeam, Front to Back makes sense.  I think the Macomber is easier back to front.  I lift off the beater and fold the breast beam down.  For threading, I haven't tried raising the heddles with a "strong bar".   I'll have to try that.  What has worked for me is sitting on a large exercise ball - I think they are called "stability balls".  It is at the right height, and supports me well for leaning into thread the heddles.   I assume you also have suspended your lease sticks from the castle so they are at about the same height as the heddle eyes. I sort of straddle the treadles while sitting on the ball.  It probably isn't very graceful looking, but it works and my back isn't strained.

Wed, 09/09/2015 - 02:06

MyOwnTime

I also have a 48" BD4 and warp it F-2-B. Do you know the back beam folds down flat just like the front? I lower the back beam and sit on a folding chair right next to the heddles and it's comfortable and super easy. (Be sure you unhook the brake chain first.) I have a single back beam. I don't know if it works the same for a sectional beam or double back beams, but it is simple with a single back beam.

I also start by sleying the reed with it laying flat a la Tom Knisley in his Weaving with Novelty Yarns video. 

Wed, 09/09/2015 - 02:08

MyOwnTime

Sorry. duplicate post. Moderator, delete if you can.

Wed, 09/09/2015 - 02:15

Jeanine Ertl

I'm glad to know F-to-B is possible, though with the double back beam and it's current location I suppose I'll stick to B-to-F for now. The suggestions on sitting for the heddles is exactly what I was hoping for. I've tried to find a youtube of someone warping a Macomber to see the little bits that are unique to this style loom and haven't found any so this is all perfect. Thanks so much! Anyone, more advice and preferences, the better!

Wed, 09/09/2015 - 12:34

mneligh

I warp my Schacht loom F2B, but would never stray from warping the Macomber B2F.  I think that is how both looms were designed to be warped, and it's easy for me to accommodate.  To do otherwise on my Macomber I would have to unhook and later reattach 2 brakes, and the sectional beam takes up room and creates hazards at close proximity.

On the Macomber, I almost never use my plain beam, since it is so much easier to warp sectionally, given my lack of space behind the loom.  Even when using both beams in a piece I put the plain beam's warp on the sectional beam and then crank it onto the plain beam.

Instead of going for the bar to raise heddle frames, I sit on a low foot stool.

In spite of the fact that it's a bigger loom, I am faster at warping the Macomber than the Schacht.  I also have to confess that for sectional warping, I use an AVL warping wheel for most warps.  That saves a lot of time.

Tue, 09/15/2015 - 04:29

Jeanine Ertl

Thank you so much for the advice and link(s). I am thinking about ordering Peggy Osterkamp's "Warping the Loom Back to Front." Does this seem like a good book to add on to a currently limited beginner's warping technique? Thanks for any other suggestions that come this way.

Wed, 09/16/2015 - 06:08

Hearthsidehills

I have purchased everything that Peggy has produced and love her books.  Very easy to understand.  I think the thing I love the best is that she gives you directions (and pictures) for building things yourself rather than having to buy everything ready made.  She also gives directions for things to make to make your weaving easier.  I am a novice on my Macomber as well but as far as Peggy's books go.  They are awesome.  I was on another Weaving list and thread was to list your favorite must have weaving books in your library.  Peggy's books/dvd were on almost everyone's list.

Sun, 10/25/2015 - 23:56

morgan clifford

I thread front to back for several reasons: 1. The reed spaces the wraps precisely as they should be. 2. I can easily tie on a new warp to the ends of the previous one. 3. I get perfect tension because I'm pulling against the back beam which is very solid and stable.  I know some people prefer back to front but I find that warping front to back has more advantages.  Speed isn't everything!