1st: Harness issue I notice that in weaves that require several shafts the harnesses do not stay down when switching treadles. For example, my current project is a 4 block S&W project using shafts 1-6. When shafts 1-2 are raised for a tabby it's fine. When shafts 3-4-5-6 are raised for b tabby shafts 1-2 come up anyway. I have to physically push 1-2 back down to get an open shed. I have greased the joints in the top "shoulder" area as well as the joints down below. I have also used a silicone lubricant on the treadle tie up bars to help them move more smoothly. I have dusted and vacuumed to remove extra dust and lint but it does not matter what I am doing or the weather, i.e. humidity. I am using inserted eye heddles on all harnesses. Anyone have any ideas? It takes a lot of time to push them back down every other pick. 2nd: Brake Issue My brake cord continually falls of the spool. It makes me crazy. I've rewound it, reversed it and tried wrapping it the other direction... Is there anyone else who has this issue or a solution? I was thinking of a spool with higher sides but Macomer does not offer one.

Comments

besting (not verified)

I have a 8 harness that I take to workshops and move around the house as needed. In the middle of a workshop, I had the same problem.  Tried sanding the sides, adding a lubricant, etc.  Finally what work was pulling the sides of the loom toward each other to make it more square.  

sequel (not verified)

If you have set the warp too closely and/or have textured thread, the warp may not separate easily. 

Does the brake on your loom have a turnbuckle?  Perhaps the brake band is just too loose to stay put.

Michael will probably have the answer for you. 

 

Michael White

Thanks  Sequel for having faith in me. smedway have you had this problem with the frames when you are lifing them by themself. Sequels maybe right on the yarn sticking. Try beating between throws. I would also check to see if the hooks are bent or misalined. I hope you have checked that all the chain hooks are closed and the heddle hooks are closed as well. Because of the way the heddles are set below the reed having too tight a tension can cause all the frames to move. Try loosing the tension a little.

The brake needs adjusting. Most people adjust the cable too tight. When this happens as you depress the brake release, too far down, the cable can come off the drum. You should only have to touch the brake lighty. See the picture below of how the cable is on the drum.

Let me know if any of this works.

 

Michael

 

    

smedway

Can you give me a little more detail on what you mean with this? It sounds interesting.

smedway

Nope, no sticky warps. Although the problem is exacerbated 10 fold of the weft is sticky and or close, like for double weave. That's horrible!

smedway

I have noticed that if the warp is loose it is not as bad but then I have problems weaving properly because there is not enough tension. The heddle bars are locked in the bottom and top of each harness and the warp is spaced for evenweave. When you say hooks do you mean the treadle hooks? I've taken some photos of the problem areas but can seem to add them to the post via my phone. I'll try later. I appreciate all the feedback from everyone.

fiberassociations

I had the same problem and it was because with the new hooks that go over the lamms sometime the hook is widened and can catch another lamm on the way up or down. If I am remembering correctly, another time that happened to me, one of the hooks had actually moved sideways/diagonally and twisted with another hook therefore interfering with the lift of the adjacent shaft. I think that each time I had to lie on the floor and push the treadles with my hands and watch to see where the problem was. Still love my Macomber!

smedway

Ok, I uploaded several photos and even a video. The video is here: https://vimeo.com/125858121 and the images are below. The problem is very persistant and really causes a problem when weaving - enough to discourage me from doubleweave, wool warp, rep weave and even summer and winter which is what is pictured below. There must be something I can do.

Michael White

I see the handle to the left so this is the right side (from the front). Your cable is going around the drum wrong. The cable near the blue arrow goes to the top/side of the loom and should be on the other side of the drum. Disconnect the cable going to the brake petal and remove it from the drum. Now srarting from the top outside (side near the handle) wrap the cable two time around the drum and them over the top down to the brake petal. See the pictures in my posting above. Nice video One of the problem is you are weaving summer and winter. With sw 1 & 2 are lifting against all the other shafts. Also your bar is sitting on the beam. Once the bar drops (Try advancing the warp until the bar is off the beam and see what this does). After the bar is off the beam try adjusting the tension just so you can weave and not have a super tight tension. If you are still getting lifting try adjusting a beater cam so on the problem shafts the beater is sitting on the bottom of the warp. With the bar on the beam even tabby "A" is sitting just above the beater.

smedway

This is the position it works best in. If i wrap it differently it actually does not fit around the drum. Its not long enough to go the other way. I'll try and draw a picture of what I've done. This is the current layout: back .| [|||] ...| front -->crank I've tried wrapping so that it scrolls differently as shown below, but this is even worse. back ...| [|||] .| front -->crank If i take the cable off and invert it the cable is not long enough to reach the hook, thats why i though it i found find a drum with larger sides it might keep the cable in check. When I'm weaving it generally falls occasionally, but if i have to wind on the warp it just falls off continually.

smedway

I had actually just cut off a few yards of woven items and retied the warp in this image. But you are correct in that it exacerbates the issue until the bar goes over the beam. I am using 1&2 against the others - but that is tabby for summer and winter (as far as I understand it). Is there another way to thread it? Do you mean that it would help if I changed the tabby to a different harness?

Michael White

Don't replace the the drum just get a longer cable or move the postion of the beam.

Michael

fiberassociations

Yes- The older hooks went into little holes in the lamms. The newer hooks fit all looms. They are longer and the hook goes over the top of the lamm. They can get out of position. If a shaft only sticks after an adjacent shaft was lifted, it could be that the open side of the hook is catching on the other shaft or it could be " misaligned " and catching a hook on the other shaft. Watch from under the loom.