After spending most of today threading my rigid heddle and wrapping the warp onto the apron, I'm looking for suggestions for making this easier.  Mostly I've done direct warping and love it but I needed 3.5 yards of warp so I decided to try the indirect warping.  

I thought I was holding the yarn right in my left hand (I'm right handed) picking the first/next warp end, threading the slot or hole of the heddle.  My warp ends ended up crossed all over the place!  Then when I went to wind the warp onto the apron, I had 'rat's nests' of yarn all over the place.  It was very slow going.

So, I'm looking for hints on how to hold the warp ends in my hand and how to pick the appropriate end to thread next.  I don't want to be limited to the length of warp I can comfortably use on the loom!

Thanks for helping me!  Audrey

Comments

Sara von Tresckow

Direct warps can be extended by simply using multiple pegs or substitute pegs. One of the finest substitutes is quick release clamps clamped to the table with the tail end sticking up. You can then use this collection of points much the same as a warping board with the added confidence that each thread is placed correctly in the heddle, much the same as a raddle on a floor loom.

When finished, choke tie that warp in a few places, remove from the pegs and wind on as usual.

Burleliz

What I have done to deal with this issue is to make a raddle.  I took a piece of sturdy scrap wood of the same width as my RH and pounded nails into it every 1 inch.  I secured it to the back of a chair with rubber bands around the nails and the chair at both ends and in the middle.  I weight the chair with several reams of paper or a few gallons of water in old milk containers (and weight my RH loom as well in the same fashion).

Then, I direct warp, wrapping the warp threads around the nails on the raddle (no more than the number of threads per inch for my project). After I finish direct threading through the heddle(s), I wind on using warping sticks for tensioning. I also tie thick yarn around both ends of the back warping beam to keep my warp from spreading as I wind it on. This has worked very well with both my 20-inch and my 30-inch Schacht Flip looms.

When I tried using the warping board it was a rat's nest, so I ditched that method and tried this approach instead.  I've wound rather long warps (3-5 yards) this way.  If the warp needs to be longer, I use my floor loom because I get better tension.

Hope I answered your question.

AudreyO

Thanks for your suggestion on using a raddle.  I'd never heard of this but I've since been reading about it.  I'll see what I can come up with to try it.

Joanne Hall

For long warps, try threading the loops into the slots rather than cutting and threading both the holes and slots.  Wind on and then thread the holes after all the warp is on the warp beam.  Not only does this eliminate the need to tie on at the warp beam, but it will eliminate most of the tangle as well.

Joanne

ingamarie

I basically do what Joanne suggested, it's sort of a modified Swedish B2F warp on a RH loom. I wind the warp on my warping mill (I don't use a board). Tie the cross in 3-5 places depending on the yarn, tie choke ties, and secure the end loops. Then I take to a table, put lease sticks in the cross and undo those ties.  The heddle is clamped to the table flat and I thread each loop, in the order they are on the lease sticks into the slots, put the loops over the apron bar, weight the warp chain and wind on with sticks or paper. After that it's just like direct warping. That's the Cliff Note's version at least. You're not holding the cross with your hand, but I never really liked that method. I like having both hands free to do stuff. Lease sticks can be almost any thing that's smooth, about an inch wide and longer than your warp will be wide. Cardboard even. You can tape the ends together. I do like to wind on with them, as a tensioning tool, and then you need something stronger, but if you just want something to hold your cross then two strips of cardboard will be just fine.

 

AudreyO

Thanks!  I think I understand your method.  As soon as I have to warp again, I'll know.