I would like to weave and sew the blouse on page 56 of the Jan/Feb 2015 issue of handwoven. I have used 16/2 cotton from Yarn Barn of KS and thought it might be a good substitute for the expensive cotton/silk from Treenway. However, I'm also considering 16/2 bamboo from Yarn Barn of KS. The weave structure calls for a set of 30 epi. Each of these works according to the website. Before I spend the money, I'd like to get suggestions. I could also look at Peale cotton or cotton in as well. Any help would be appreciated as I'm not experienced with substituting yarns for projects.

Comments

Sara von Tresckow

First, for clothing, the hand and drape of the fabric will play an important role. I'm not at all sure about the finished feel of a cotton and silk blend, but a good quality all cotton blouse would certainly wear well and feel good when wearing it. Bamboo is essentially a rayon and your garment would wear and feel like a rayon garment.

16/2 cotton will make a lovely lightweight blouse, and if you are relatively new to weaving, you'll get a nice garment at a reasonable price with a trusted material.

Weaving is an incremental sport - you must do considerable self learning and experimentation to develop confidence in what you plan to make. Whatever you choose for a substitution, try not to take a substantially thicker thread as it will alter the appearance of the blouse considerably. And do perform a wrap test before determining sett - wrap the yarn around a ruler closely - use about half the wraps for tabby and 2/3 for twill.

Enjoy.

ReedGuy

If your intending to get on with it, the 16/2 of course would seem fine. But do a sample before going full bore. Is the sett comparable to the project in the magazine? If the results are satisfactory from a sample, I would not invest further unless you are of course wanting to explore. But or course this means spending more money. If so, I have found 20/2 cotton to be good strong warp yarn if it's a natural color. I find it as strong as died or bleached 16/2. I have compared and you'll almost cut skin with 20/2 just by pulling. Your sett for a twill would be up around the 48 epi now. From cloth I have made from it, a good pair of scissors will cut it without even closing and opening the blades. Open the blades and scoot along like a knife. :)

 

laurafry

 2/16 cotton at 30 epi might be a little bit 'tight' for a blouse fabric - as others have said, sample a bit, even if that means setting up your loom and weaving a full width sample, wet finishing it and perhaps re-sleying if density needs to be adjusted.

Don't forget a very hard press during wet finishing to help stabilize the cloth and flatten it as much as possible to make sewing easier.

cheers,

Laura

ladytj1754

Thank you, Sara and others!  I think I'm convinced to try the 16/2 cotton.  I'll definitely sample for this project (I typically don't because I use what's called for in a draft/project).  But this time, I think it's worth it.  Since this is my first clothing weave, I'll have to test multiple things - pattern fit, weave structure, etc.  If I can make this blouse, I will have confidence to weave and make more clothing, which is what I've wanted to do since I started weaving!  

Here goes nothing!

Marilyn

sally orgren

I have been doing a lot of weaving with Brassard's 16/2 cotton for towels at 30 epi and love the hand of the cloth. (You can view several of my projects here at Weavo.) They also sell a cotton-linen blend at 16/2.

I am considering making garments, too. Although the drape and sheen of silk, bamboo, or Tencel is enticing, I prefer easy wash-n-wear (+ breathable) cotton for clothing in general. And the price point is attractive for experimenting.

I think the Mannings (PA, in USA) or Camilla Valley (Canada) sells 16/2 in about 40 colors, so go WILD!

Because this weight is so versitle, your samples can serve a practical function once you collect the technical information you need. If narrow, they can be sewn into tissue packs, eyeglass cases, and pincushions. If you weave wide samples, you might be able to use the resulting fabric for dishtowels.

This is my latest "favorite" yarn, so proceed with confidence and post your progress! 

ReedGuy

Brassards carry 81 colors of 16/2 and Loomlust carries Venne organic 16/2 in a limited number of colors.

I've always had good luck with Camilla Valley, Nina Manners does a great job. Never used the others, but do know a local weaver using Brassards.

All Canadian venders listed here.

laurafry

Have used the 16/2 cottolin from Brassard and it's a wee bit 'tender'.  I did manage to weave the cloth I wanted but had some breakages.  Might be better to use the cotton as warp, cottolin for weft.  For that yarn, 30 epi for plain weave might be a bit too close as it is fairly textured due to the nature of the blend.

Also what I do with yarn of that grist is to double the outside four ends in the heddle, but keep the density the same in the reed as much as possible.  I would especially do that with the cottolin to strengthen the selvedge ends.

cheers,

Laura

ReedGuy

My previous post was on cotton, for clarification.

I have also heard that about the cottolin before Laura. Seems it's a weaker thread than pure cotton.

ladytj1754

Laura,

Thank you, again, for your thoughts on the 16/2 cotton.  The product I'm looking at is at Yarn Barn of Kansas.  It is listed as a sett of 24-36 epi.  The price point is attractive.  I'm thinking I might be able to get by with this for this first time since the project calls for a sett of 30 epi.  

I've got the product ordered.  Hopefully, I'll be able to sample and get started in the next couple of weeks!  will try to post pictures when I get to that point! 

sally orgren

I have visited the store personally, and have ordered from them in the past. You should be in good hands!