I am in the process of a silk scarf project, using 20/2 silk for both warp and weft. This seems to be a project doomed from the start. I have never woven with silk before. Getting it onto the warping board went smoothly. Looked great. Felt like I was on top of it!

Started my warping front to back (my first mistake I believe)....threaded reed.  Went well.  Threaded heddles. No problem. 30 epi in 15 dent reed (2 per dent). Got all set up to wind the warp onto back beam and as I began the first few rotations I began to see the fibers fusing and creating bunches of ugly clumps that I slowly began separating. Painful! I did make my way through getting the warp on the back beam, however about 5 or 6 threads broke and will need to be replaced. Planning to set those in with weights.

I am very worried about how this will proceed with the weaving. Is there anything else I can do to strengthen the warp threads and minimize the fusing. I am guessing I am going to struggle with this. Ideas are welcome.  Also read about spraying with spray starch - is it too late to do this??

Thanks friends!

 

Nancy

Comments

Sun, 12/14/2014 - 18:40

Michael White

on 20/2 is really a tight set. A 26 epi set 1-2-2-2-1 etc in your 15 dent reed. What type of heddles you are using will also effect how this weaves.
Warping FTB means the yarn is going though the reed and heddles two times adding to the rubbing of the silk. Will using a spray starch work, try it you have nothing to loss.

Michael

The Georgia Yarn Company

 

Sun, 12/14/2014 - 19:09

NancyS

Michael - thank you for your reply. This was a draft provided as part of a kit - decided to go this way as it's first time weaving with silk and I didn't want to invest more $$ than one project. I am going to try the spray starch and see what happens. I learn with all these bumps and starts. Thanks again -

Nancy

 

 

Sun, 12/14/2014 - 19:15

laurafry

I agree with Michael, unless there is a reason for a very tight cloth, 30 is more than generally recommended.  What is the weave structure?  Unless it is satin, 24 to 26 would be more the range used for 20/2 silk.

Some silks - spun very loosely - will develop little handcuffs with their neighbours.  Gently, slowly, remove them and beam.  

Next time wind the warp with two threads at a time - that sometimes helps things go more smoothly.  Keep the warp under tension as much as possible - no winding on without tension.  I hang a water bottle off the warp chain to provide consistent tension for beaming.

cheers,

Laura

Sun, 12/14/2014 - 19:36

Sara von Tresckow

Your weave structure will influence how this warp weaves up. If you are using plain weave or a plain weave derivative, it might continue sticking. You don't want a hard beat, but you might wiggle the beater between shots to make the threads behave and stay in the up or down position as threaded.

If you are using a twill structure, the worries about stickiness will be less. I learned long ago that using mohair in warp necessitated a simple 2/2 twill. When you change sheds, one of the pair remains raised and a new thread is added. Rather than forcing every thread to change its up or down position, forcing the threads to pass each other with all associated fuzzies, there is room for the warp to move.

In the past, I have used 20/2 silk in a 3/1 broken twill that was definitely sett correctly - silk will open up with wet finishing, so it can be a bit sticky on the loom, weave up what appears to be too stiff, and relax very elegantly when wet finished.

Mon, 12/15/2014 - 00:16

NancyS

I finished warping maintaining the 30epi. a few broken threads which have been repaired. I did spray some spray starch on the warp - not sure if this is helping or not, but the tie up seems to be working with the exception of the edges.

This is a bit of a sampler to get a feel. Doing combination plain weave and a few huck patterns. Again first time weaving with silk - I am having edge issues (see photo below). I wonder if this is from uneven tension?? I've never had this kind of edge issue. Comments? Thank you!

Tue, 12/16/2014 - 02:02

debmcclintock

a temple solves alot of selvedge problems

do you use one?

Tue, 12/16/2014 - 12:39

NancyS

I added fishing line yesterday to the selvedges. Didn't help much. I don't have a temple this small so may try to create a homemade temple with clips. Truly, this feels more as if the warp isn't wound onto the warp beam evenly. Plus if feels as if the silk isn't able to wind around the selvedge easily. I throw the shuttle and it continually catches just at a point where there's a small loop remaining.

Tempted to cut off what I;ve done and unwind warp and rewind - then I worry about even more stress on the silk. Very discouraged --- might be a project I need to walk away from.

Tue, 12/16/2014 - 15:41

JeanOCuilinn

Would a floating selvadge help? Or maybe just a slight tug to set the edge before beating?
Tue, 12/16/2014 - 17:41

Sara von Tresckow

It is difficult for a new weaver to judge the edges. The best way I've found for weaving is to give a slight tug at the edge(sometimes with two fingers pinching that edge as this takes place) so that loops don't push out, then let the weft yarn completely relax in an arc in the shed, and then beat. The exact mechanics of this need to be practiced, and it seems counterintuitive to give that tug, but the weft will tend to push out at the edge where it was entered unless is sits a bit firmly. Then by relaxing the weft and arcing it, it will beat in as desired.

A temple (weighted or wood/metal with teeth) helps with that slight tug, holding the edge more firmly than without.

Tue, 12/16/2014 - 18:12

pammersw

Is your warp falling off the edge of the stack of warp on the back beam?

Wed, 12/17/2014 - 11:30

debmcclintock

Here's how I make small temples for a delicate warp. Works well for me. Learned from Lao & Thai weavers who work with very high epi count silk. http://www.debmcclintock.com/Debmcclintock/Temples.html
Thu, 12/18/2014 - 06:29

CelticCats

I saw the neatest way to help prevent draw in. This person took some clips like the black binder clips, added a string to them with a weight on the opposite end from the clips, and then put the weights off the sides (both left and right sides). Just wish I could remember where I saw it. If I find it, I will post it here for you. Good luck, Dorn
Thu, 12/18/2014 - 11:42

NancyS

Here's the update. By Tuesday afternoon I was so frustrated that I had to walk away. I will be heading back to my studio this afternoon to greet this weaving project with renewed hope! :-) I will enlist my husband to assist in unwinding the warp and rewinding. I know I am risking more wear on the threads, but I really believe it wound on in a wonky way. I purchased some of the clips mentioned by dwiliston yesterday and will forge ahead. I will also in the next few weeks order a smaller temple. We all just keep learning.

Thu, 12/18/2014 - 15:10

Sara von Tresckow

For weighted temple plans:

www.woolgatherers.com/id105.htm

Thu, 12/18/2014 - 16:05

jander14indoor (not verified)

LeClerc now sells a weighted temple.  Uses plastic clips to grab the cloth, looks to be fairly freindly to delicate cloth.  http://www.camillavalleyfarm.com/weave/raddletemple.htm  Seemed pricey, but with low volume most new weaving stuff does.

I will note I found what appear to be the exact same clips at a company called Lee Valley http://www.leevalley.com/ for a few dollars.  Page 143 of their gardening catalog, called a Rhino Tarp Clip.  Should only cost me a few more for rope and weights to replicate LeClerc's design.

 

Jeff Anderson

Livonia, MI

Thu, 12/18/2014 - 18:32

Sara von Tresckow

Just FYI - the idea of using clips is attractive, but not as functional as using the paper clips or other slim metal hook. The effectiveness of the weighted temple depends on the stretching to take place at the very edge of the weaving - the clamps stretch at least half an inch away where the tip resides.

Using the paper clip (metal hook) is faster, easier and does a better job in spite of worries about the integrity of your fabric. 

I took this little video at the studio of a professional German weaver who was using metal s-hooks at least 1/4 inch thick on her weighted temple - weaving toweling at 30+ epi - and it made no difference - the holes were closed before the fabric reached the cloth beam. Watch as she moves her weights:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFraJgzAbro

Thu, 12/18/2014 - 18:46

debmcclintock

Nice video thanks for posting!
Fri, 12/26/2014 - 12:40

NancyS

Update on the silk scarf. Rebeamed (yes, I know....this wasn't recommended), but it went well. Created the weighted paper clip temples and the edges are better. Not perfect, but better. I keep learning.

Fri, 12/26/2014 - 12:41

NancyS

Update on the silk scarf. Rebeamed (yes, I know....this wasn't recommended), but it went well. Created the weighted paper clip temples and the edges are better. Not perfect, but better. I keep learning.