I have a Toika Eeva, computer controlled, 24 shaft loom.  It has a double beam and a sectional warp beam.  Can anyone point me to a utube or equivalent to show me how to use the sectional warp beam?  I have some pictures but it's not really clear.

Comments

Mon, 11/10/2014 - 23:24

mrdubyah (not verified)

You can also get an AVL warping wheel to make sectional warping easy.  I find it much easier than a spool rack and tensioner.  See it in operation at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Se9aMzF-pbU

 

Thu, 11/13/2014 - 10:36

ReedGuy

Winding 24 spools with 9 yards x 15 sections is a very easy step with an electric winder and counter, then just thread the comb and box once and wind onto the sections using the box counter to meter off the warp. I recently did all that in an afternoon with 20/2 linen. I'm quite happy with the spool and box method.

Can the wheel hold 3250 yards of 20/2 linen? Maybe you have larger wheel spools than I saw in the video? And that's not even a third of the width of loom. Then I have to setup that wheel multiple times.

Thu, 11/13/2014 - 18:04

kerstinfroberg

Reed Guy, in my understanding the AVL warping wheel is meant to be used for one section at a time, eliminating the need for making spools.

It is quite possible to use an ordinary warping mill to make a warp chain the width of one section at a time, too. The "problem" would e tensioning each section the same, but I think the warping wheel helps with that.

Thu, 11/13/2014 - 21:47

ReedGuy

I understand that to, but it has to be set up multiple times for wide warps and long ones. Wind the spools once, thread the box once, just wind. It isn't obvious to me that the wheel could hold all the warp unless it's a short, or a narrow piece or there are bigger spool attachments to put on the wheel. I would not chain off a mill to a sectional, would rather just use the bare beam. I'm sure the wheel has a niche, and folks are satisfied with that. But I have not seen an advantage in it for me on wide warps that are 6+ yards. If I was doing a lot of weaving of long pieces and made work out of it (as in income supplement), I would not even wind spools I'd have a stocked shelf of pre-wound spools from the mills. Just meter it off with the thread box. A hip chain meter for instance is not just any old meter in the bargain bin. I've used them for years to measure distance and area with compass, so they are pretty reliable. Now a days, and since 1998 when selective availability was shut off, I have used GPS, but that's another story. ;D

Fri, 11/14/2014 - 15:48

Joanne Hall

One can wind the number of threads for one section, say 2 inches, but multiply the length by say, 6 times and then wind 6 sections with one warp. A tension box can be used for tension.

The advantage of this is that one then has invested in a warping reel, which can be used for traditional warping.  Investing in a spool rack and spools may even cost more and these are not useful if one wants to warp in the traditional manner.

Joanne

Fri, 11/14/2014 - 20:20

ReedGuy

I would be worried of the warp tangling in the tension box comb in front unless the ends had enough tension behind the box to prevent snagging. Maybe you could leave the bout on the mill without too much trouble while the tension box is threaded?

Fri, 11/14/2014 - 22:45

mrdubyah (not verified)

Spool rack and tension box, warping frame and lease sticks, reel, drum or wheel all work just fine.  I have used 'em all and still use different methods for different looms and different warps.  I know the joy of winding on from the spool rack.  It's all good Reed Guy. 

That being said, I do prefer the wheel for most sectional warps.  There's no spools to wind, but you do have to spin the wheel.  Like you, I can get a 40 inch wide warp at 24 set onto the beam directly from a cone (or three or four cones) in an afternoon.  Kerstin is correct, the wheel fills one bout at a time. A 10 yard warp would be three spins of the wheel.  Assuming I work with 4 cones (4 threads at a time) I'll get my 48 thread bout (I have 2" bouts) in 36 turns (48/4=12, 12x3=36).  The counter keeps track of turns and, when it gets to 36, I wind the bout onto the beam.  The wheel has an adjustable tensioning spring that ensures tension in all bouts is identical.  Easy peasy. 

I have to say, though, I love the idea of getting spools directly from the manufacturer, throwing them on a spool rack, and warping through a tension box.  That's the real answer to the spool winding problem.