I am a relatively novice struggling weaver.  I warp my loom back to front, and am trying to get a 10 yard warp on my loom.  I have wound nearly all of the warp and  realize that I am one thread short of the required number.   What is the best way to add  a single thread before threading the heddles?  I  will cut a single 10 yard thread,  but don't know how to attach and weight it to get the tension right prior to threading.  Help!

Thanks    

Comments

Mon, 11/10/2014 - 15:45

kerstinfroberg

If I were you, I would skip that one thread... it will not make any difference to the width, and (skipping it at the selvage) will not throw your pattern.

Having one thread hanging from the back is quite possible, however. Thread it through its heddle and tie on before you weigh it, and watch it often. (hanging threads tend to unwind, thus weakening)

Mon, 11/10/2014 - 17:37

laurafry

I agree with Kerstin. If that one thread isn't necessary, leave it off. Over 10 yards there will be plenty of opportunity for that single weighted thread to cause problems. Cheers Laura
Mon, 11/10/2014 - 17:59

cmsbcg

Unfortunately the thread is not on a selvedge edge, and  eliminating  it would throw the entire pattern off. It is part of a wide stripe of a color that is different than those on either side, with distinct patterns in each wide stripe. I have only about a yard left of warp to get on the back beam, so it won't be possible to tie it on there.   I was thinking about winding the single thread  on some type of spool, and weighting the spool after I have completed threading it through the reed and the heddles and attaching it to the apron-- is that crazy, and do you have any other suggestions?  

hopeful... cmsbcg

Mon, 11/10/2014 - 18:20

kerstinfroberg

Well, that is a different question, then!

Go ahead, do as you suggested - just watch it often. Try to prevent it from unwinding, make sure it doesn't behave badly when you advance the warp.

It can be done!

Mon, 11/10/2014 - 20:22

Sara von Tresckow

One thread will not need much tension(weight). Leave the lease sticks in, tie them firmly to the back beam and let that extra thread ride along UNDER the lease sticks. The force of the lease sticks will more than likely be enough to make that thread behave.

Mon, 11/10/2014 - 20:29

ReedGuy

If the lease sticks don't tension it enough, just add an S-hook at the back for a little weight as some people do with floating selvedges.

Mon, 11/10/2014 - 20:46

cmsbcg

Thanks- I did not know that the lease sticks could stay in. I have often thought that keeping them in would be helpful- but thought they had to be removed.   I will definitely try it!

cmsbcg  

Mon, 11/10/2014 - 20:46

cmsbcg

Thanks- I did not know that the lease sticks could stay in. I have often thought that keeping them in would be helpful- but thought they had to be removed.   I will definitely try it!

cmsbcg  

Mon, 11/10/2014 - 20:57

kerstinfroberg

There is no weaving police (except perhaps in the schoolroom) - try whatever you think "sensible".

(And the weaving police may be different in differend schoolrooms - in my weaving school, the police would definitely descended on anybody being so daring as to take OUT the lease sticks. This was in Sweden 35 yrs ago)

Mon, 11/10/2014 - 21:12

cmsbcg

Your answer is great-- I will give it a try! 

 

Tue, 11/11/2014 - 02:12

Bonnie Inouye (not verified)

If this yarn is on a cone, just place the cone on the floor at the back of the loom. There is no need to measure off 10 yards and cut it now. You can thread the end over and under the sticks, through the correct heddle, etc. Add a small weight off the back. 

Wed, 11/12/2014 - 00:47

sandra.eberhar…

I call this suplimentary warp.  I usually add a spool of the thread, weight it with a small clamp, and tie the clamp to the loom frame so it doesn't twist.  The worst case of suplimentary warp was when I left out a spool on a sectional warp.  I had spools all over the place.

Mon, 11/17/2014 - 11:40

Andrew Kieran (not verified)

I do the same as Bonnie, but I also wrap the warp end twice around the beam so it come off at roughly the same tension as the rest of the warp, then up and through the lease in the correct place. I do this on both hand and machine loom and find no problems, besides having cones of yarn on the floor that inevitably get knocked over when I go round the back to mend broken ends

Mon, 11/17/2014 - 11:41

Andrew Kieran (not verified)

I do the same as Bonnie, but I also wrap the warp end twice around the beam so it come off at roughly the same tension as the rest of the warp, then up and through the lease in the correct place. I do this on both hand and machine loom and find no problems, besides having cones of yarn on the floor that inevitably get knocked over when I go round the back to mend broken ends