I am weaving cottolin towels with a tow linen weft and even though i am using a temple, the salvages keep breaking. a friend recommended sleying 2 linen thread for each end, but alas, the cottolin thread closet to the end (3 in) just borke!! i am using a inox ss reed- a "new" reed to me and i am weaving on a an ideal counterbalance.i've woven with this same yarn before and have not had problems. what to do?

Comments

Thu, 10/30/2014 - 18:40

laurafry

There are many things that might be going 'wrong' - first off is draw in.  Cottolin is a fairly 'weak' yarn that can't tolerate much draw in or the stress of the weft if the shuttle bobbin is really full.

Linen is a very dense yarn and a very full bobbin can create too much stress as it is being seated around the outside end.

How well are the bobbins wound?  Are they feeding the weft off smoothly?  (I'm assuming a boat shuttle.)  If there are peaks and valleys in the winding, the weft can catch on the high spots.  Or the linen can leap off the bobbin, especially if wound higher than the flanges, and wrap around the spindle of the shuttle.  The sudden jerk as the bobbin jams in the shuttle will stress the outside selvedge threads and could eventually cause them to break.

In an arid climate, getting the linen into a moist environment will help make it less brittle, less stiff and more pliable.  I worked out how to make a humidor for my linen bobbins - on my blog http://laurasloom.blogspot.com  I think there is a 'linen' label. Or I think the title was Humidifier Bodge which should come up in the search box.

If shuttle handling and bobbin winding isn't the problem, I'd look at draw in.  A temple might help in that case.  People make temples out of tarp clamps and weights - I'm sure a quick search on the internet will bring up resourses.

Since you have used this yarn previously and had no issues with it I'm assuming the warp has been wound well and there are no issues stemming from that aspect.

If the yarn is just too weak, it can be strengthened by spraying with spray starch, rubbing the outside ends with beeswax or applying a sizing.  All of these can be removed during wet finishing.  

Hope you find out what is happening.  So frustrating.  :(

Laura

Thu, 10/30/2014 - 18:57

spring k (not verified)

i must confess my bobbins are rather loose. i will focus on winding them tighter. and i will put them in your "bobbin humidifier"

i think the last time i wove with cottlin/linen was in the summer. now i am in a wood heated very dry house. thanks laura.

Thu, 10/30/2014 - 20:08

Joanne Hall

Hi Spring,

First, make sure that your temple is set into the very last two threads of the selvage.   I enlarged your photo and I see some bunching of the selvage warp threads.  So, first work on preventing the draw-in with the shuttle and then second, when the warp has become a little wider, see if your temple can be set out more more hole to be a little wider.  But do this later.  You will not be able to stretch it wider just yet.

First work on the shuttle to prevent draw-in.  You probably already leave the weft at an angle.  Try lifting your foot to close the shed before you beat.  It may take a few inches of weaving to get beyond any damaged selvage threads, so be gentle for a while.

The easiest way to have less draw-in is to switch from the plastic bobbin to a paper quill.  You can make a paper quill on the spindle of your bobbin winder.  I have instructions on my website.  It works best on a thin spindle winder. If you have a thick spindle winder, you may want to make the quills by winding the paper about 10 times around the spindle and then glueing it together.  The glue will give the paper more stability.  Or make a thinner quill from winding on a thin dowel or use a drinking straw and wind it on a drill with a thin dowel stuck into the drill.

The plastic bobbins create more drag on the weft, which can be giving you a little too much tightness on the weft.  Give a paper quill a try.

Joanne