After considering a second beam for my Glimakra, I decided I wanted a weighted tension beam. I purchased an old LeClerc 45 inch loom for a pittance and stripped it.  I joined a partial front beam to a partial back beam, added the tension brake drum AND the Ratchet tension end.  I had to drill a new hole in the two Glimakra Bolsters to seat the warp beam ends.  I added an apron and mounted it onto the regular back of the Glimakra, I then decided to remount it to the drawloom extension where it will sit on top of the sectional beam.  I had the flip over the bolsters, drill holes through the drawloom extension and remount the new warp beam.  There is 3/8 space between the position for the lower back beam and the new upper back beam.  This project probably cost around $120.  

 

 

Comments

ReedGuy

Where is the other back beam? I see two warp rollers and one back beam and something resembling a raddle above the lower roller. Does the Glimakra beam sit in that slot under the upper one? And perhaps is the space/clearance you describe?

Second back beam as shown here.

http://glimakrausa.com/glimakra-products/loom-accessories/#1

Dawn McCarthy

You are correct Reed Guy, it isn't shown in the picture but the slot below in the lighter bolster is where it sits.  This loom extension is for drawloom weaving, the lower back beam has an adjustable height, so in a lowered position the distance between the two back beams could vary from a few inches to a 3/8 inch.  The weighted tension warp and back beam can be mounted above the sectional beam for supplementary warps or in the original position on the back of the Glimakra loom for regular weaving.  This is the second weightrd tension beam I have built and have been very happy with the results.  

Dawn McCarthy

Sorry, forgot to mention that it is indeed a raddle that is mounted to the back of the loom.  I can put the second back beam in place and take photos if anyone is interested but essentially it goes in the slot below the darker bolster - visible just below the raddle.

Dawn

 

ReedGuy

No, not neccessary. I guess I was just asking the question for everyone's benefit.

One question though. Is live weight tension, tension from the weight of the warp beam? A gravity thing?

Dawn McCarthy

The tension is derived from a weight hanging from a cord/string/wire traveling from one side of the warp beam, around the warp beam and/or around a disk or drum.  The other end can be attached to another weight (to counterbalance) or attached to the loom structure (although this may generate some debate as to whether it is then indeed a true live weight vs tension brake).  The heavier weight pulls against the warp beam preventing the warp beam from rotating and letting off warp, tension is sufficiently applied so that when the cloth beam is advanced and pulls on the warp, the weights rise until the weights and counterweight need to be moved back to the start position.   The amount of weight is adjusted to get the right amount of tension.  Just the right tension can be constantly maintained and best of all the warp can be advanced from the front of the loom.  When the counterweight is replaced by a spring and cord or just a cord attached to the loom (moreso a tension brake) sufficient tension is applied to allow the cord to slip a little until the required amount of warp is moved forward.  I personally prefer this method as the weights never need to be moved and the hanging weight gives a great tension sweet spot.  I am sure there are a number of weavers out there using live weight tension that may be able to describe this mechanism more precisely.  

Dawn

ReedGuy

Thanks Dawn, I guess I have seen something very similar to the weighted brake on an antique loom posted to a website. I beleive it was in France.

conib (not verified)

Hi Dawn ...

Thanks for posting.  I'm very interested in this idea -- especially the use of the brake drum.

What technique did you use to join the partial beams together?

-- Constance

ReedGuy

What I had to do when I made a second warp roller was to laminate a couple 1/2 lengths and turn them on the lathe down to the diameter of the Leclerc break drum. My lathe only does 34 +- inches between centers, and I needed 62" less 1/8" for the roller to roll free. So, anyway I joined the two halves with a 2" dowel that I also made on the lathe. A drill press was used with a forstner bit on the joint to get a plum 90 degree hole. I have a doweling tool, but it only does up to 1", so no dice there. A made a couple mounting blocks secured to the loom with dowel (slip fit) and a steel panel connector that is slip fit to. It pivots, so if you take the beam blocks off, you can rotate it up or down so it is parallel to the back loom frame. Now, one will not run into it when it's exposed. Also added an adjustable height back beam that I adjust with steel rod. They just slip into holes that you line up. Added a Leclerc handle and a ratchet. The ratchet is just used for mainly warping the roller, the beam is meant for slack warps unless I do a warp cord or something. I want to do pile with it for towels and cloth. Also, the roller uses flanges to prevent warp slippage. I have not made the apron yet, as I have a linen warp on. But that is next. I got some cotton canvas for it at the tarp shop.

Picture is easier than words. ;)

 

 

This warp is linen chair webbing in herringbone, did a 32 yard warp. Nothing to do with the supplemental. :)

 

Dawn McCarthy

Sorry if I missed a question , busy trying to sell our home and working lots - I joined the 2 beams by drilling a hole in the center of both ends, used a metal cylinder (approx 1/2 inch in diameter and 4 inches long) to join the two beams at the center.   I made sure to match the side as they were hexagonal and used 4 inch fixing plates (4 for 4 sides)  - I then added an apron.  It works really well and I had the old extra beams - and combined them to make one 63 inches wide.  Hope this isn't too confusing, my studio is broken down so I cannot even locate items to take photos to better explain.

Dawn

Dawn McCarthy

Sorry if I missed a question , busy trying to sell our home and working lots - I joined the 2 beams by drilling a hole in the center of both ends, used a metal cylinder (approx 1/2 inch in diameter and 4 inches long) to join the two beams at the center.   I made sure to match the side as they were hexagonal and used 4 inch fixing plates (4 for 4 sides)  - I then added an apron.  It works really well and I had the old extra beams - and combined them to make one 63 inches wide.  Hope this isn't too confusing, my studio is broken down so I cannot even locate items to take photos to better explain.

Dawn

conib (not verified)

Thanks ReedGuy and Dawn for answering my question, much appreciated. It sounds like you both had similar solutions to the problem of connecting two halves of a beam in a structurally sound manner: use a dowel. ReedGuy, your custom second back beam setup is very kewl. So many good ideas. Dawn, no worries about posting more photos right now! I think I have a good picture of it -- those fixing plates bridge the connection between the two halves of the beam, and are installed on four of the planes of the beam, right? -- Constance