I am in the baby stage of weaving wool rugs, nowhere near you all when it comes to expertise so here it goes: I have an old Union 36 rug loom which I will be warping for wool rugs. For the weft I will use Jacob wool singles I've spun very thick (super chunky, about the diameter of a pencil). I will be using a new 6 sett reed (the original rusty one was a 12 sett). For the warp I've decided to use linen. The rugs will be used for hall/bedroom use. My question is: should I use a 3 or 4 ply linen and should it be double warped or is a single 3 or 4 ply enough? I'd like it to be strong but it doesn't have to be diesel. Thought I'd try Woolery or Halcyon Yarns for the warp (unless you know a better place?). Thanks!

Comments

Tue, 07/15/2014 - 23:50

sandra.eberhar…

What kind of weave do you plan to use?  If you're looking for a balanced plain weave or twill, you want warp about as thick as your weft.  If you are looking for a weft faced weave, the warp needs to be thinner and further apart.  You may want a warp with more "tooth" to keep the warp from packing too tightly.  Many people who weave weft faced rugs use a wool warp.

Wed, 07/16/2014 - 00:37

Stormdoor

I will be doing a plain weave, weft faced. I know what you mean about more tooth (Interesting that a wool warp was my initial thought) but heard linen makes a sturdier rug. Food for thought, thanks!
Wed, 07/16/2014 - 20:00

mneligh

I use Warp, Weft, Sett a lot to visualize what warps might look like, and wish it were on line so everyone could. For balanced plain weave, you want the warp to be about as thick as the weft, as has been said above.  If the  textile is to be totally weft-faced, the visual thickness is not as important as strength, but it does make a difference in the substance of the rug.  If it's too thick, the weft will won't have the space to pack in, but too thin and the finished rug will feel flimsy. Unfortunately, the number of plies is not the only factor -- two different 4 ply yarns can have totally different grist.  You need something fairly thick.

If you've decided on The Woolery, email or call them and ask them the question and they will tell you what they stock that meets your needs. Weaver Nancy will send you in the right direction.  

I frequently use linen warp, but it is far less forgiving than wool warp.  If you have any issues with tension, they will show with linen.   I also agree about "teeth" or friction, but direction of spin also plays into whether or not fibers will mesh together or hold themselves apart.  It is part of the "teeth" equation.  Since singles are inherently energized,  you might want to mention/consider that when searching for warp.

Wed, 07/16/2014 - 18:01

jlread (not verified)

Try Webs...it's the most reasonable..

Wed, 07/16/2014 - 20:06

mneligh

Webs is frequently slightly less and they have some fantastic sales, but they don't have the kind of help Woolery provides, and then there is shipping . . .

If you want really cheap prices, get in touch with Michael White on the Macomber group -- the moderator.  I don't know if he carries wool or linen, but if he does, he is sure to be the cheapest.  His wife is a weaver and can help you find the right warp if they have it, but they don't have a huge variety of things.

Thu, 07/17/2014 - 01:15

Stormdoor

Right, yes, when I ordered my reed and heddles Nancy the Weaver at Woolery was very helpful, both by email and phone. I'll check out Web though and see what they have. Can't wait to decide already and get this show on the road!